Modern Buddy

rode it a little mid-day, and then I was going to ride again in the evening.

about 2 miles into my ride it shuts off and I coast(with resistance.. engine braking?) to a safe stop. the eletric start works and tries to start but no luck. the kick start works but doesn't start it..

As usual I have no clue and ask for the help of all you guys.
this is cheap fix? I'm thinking of getting rid of the bike and saving for the next one

My guess is the stator died or your spark plug connection came loose. I'd check the spark plug first as it's an easy fix.

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soo I'm guessing this will work for the buddy 50 also?

what exactly does a loose/non loose spark plug look like

I believe it is in the same place on the 50. The spark plug has a rubber cover that snugs onto the top of the plug and can be pulled off. Sometimes it can come loose. It is just a matter of pushing it back onto the plug. You'll feel it grip and secure into place. Really very simple.

If you watch Genuine's 500 Mile Service Video the mechanic checks the spark plug about half way into the video and you can see him take the cover on/off.

checked the spark plug, it was attached... I took it off and reattached

My best guess is the stator then. Mine went bad (quickly) and the scooter would turn over normally but would never catch and start (because the stator had died thus no spark to the plug). But wait for some others to chime in with their thoughts. There are plenty of people here who know more about mechanical stuff than me!

thanks for the help..

You can do an easy spark check, if your Bud is at home. You will need a piece of black paper or cardboard and an electrically insulated pliers.

This will work better in a shaded area (makes seeing the spark much easier), pull the spark plug out. Reinsert the plug into the boot (the plug is still out), set up your black background behind the plug (usually taping it down helps here), insert key and turn ignition on, grasp the thick part of the boot with your pliers, now while holding and watching the plug use the electric start briefly (about 2 seconds should do), you should see spark at the electrode end.
If you see spark its probably a fuel issue. If no spark then its an electrical issue.
And a word of caution, make absolutely sure your pliers are insulated, if not and there is a problem with the spark plug wire you WILL get shocked.

This is an old quick-n-dirty roadside check

If you are not getting fuel it will shut off like that also. I messed with my float level on my bike and would suffer fuel starvation with the bike running out of fuel and I would have to pull to the side of the road. Kicking it over would bring it back to life.

As an experiment try opening the float bowl drain on the bottom of the carb. I think it is a flat head screw in there. Loosen the screw and see if any fuel comes out to see if you have a fuel delivery problem. A cracked vacuum hose to the petcock can stop fuel flow. Also a non vented gas cap can halt the flow of fuel to the carb.

Lift the seat, pull off gas cap, crank the engine to see if it starts with gas cap off.

Agrogod, this won't work unless you ground the base of the plug (the threaded body) against the engine case. Even a healthy plug and wire will not spark in open air or against a (nonconducttive) piece of dark background.

Oh, and if you are doing the test this way, it's no big deal to hold the plug body against the engine case by the wire or boot - you won't get bit. It's just like an engine's normal operation, the plug wire isn't hazardous.

Skootz Kabootz wrote:I believe it is in the same place on the 50. The spark plug has a rubber cover that snugs onto the top of the plug and can be pulled off. Sometimes it can come loose. It is just a matter of pushing it back onto the plug. You'll feel it grip and secure into place. Really very simple.

The spark plug is in a different place on the 50. It's under that same panel, but positioned differently. The oil reservoir sits front and center when you take that panel off; the spark plug is front-mounted underneath it. You can also get at it from the underside, but it's easier to see what you're doing by removing the panel.

PeteH wrote:Agrogod, this won't work unless you ground the base of the plug (the threaded body) against the engine case. Even a healthy plug and wire will not spark in open air or against a (nonconducttive) piece of dark background.

Oh, and if you are doing the test this way, it's no big deal to hold the plug body against the engine case by the wire or boot - you won't get bit. It's just like an engine's normal operation, the plug wire isn't hazardous.

Trust me I know from a first hand experience that you CAN get a shock if there is any break in the rubber. Happened once to me and I won't let it happen twice.
Its not enough to really hurt you but it will get your full attention.

Yeah, can happen. Memories of Briggs & Stratton lawnmower motors.

Try to hold the fat part of the boot. But the point I was emphasizing was that the plug shank has to be grounded or no sparkie.