Carb Jet Cleaning Survey

50CC Cape Cod · Post by **50CC Cape Cod** » Sun Feb 05, 2012 11:54 pm

I want to clean the jets on a cable slide carb. I have never done this before and was indicated can just flip carb over remove fuel bowl and remove main & pilot jets to clean. My question better to try this way or remove slide etc from carb tower and remove carb from scooter completely?
So leave carb partially attached or remove for first try any thoughts?
Also cleaned out tank old gas and a couple small rust spots on bottom of tank. Not want to get involved with acids etc any ideas. I was going to try some Never-Dull and then clean off with carb cleaner.

charlie55 · Post by **charlie55** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 1:29 am

I've always removed the carb entirely since I take the opportunity to check the float valve/seat as well as the jets. I just find it easier to do the job at my workbench, and, since I'm in the neighborhood anyway, I figure I might as well check out the whole thing. Just my personal preference.

50CC Cape Cod · Post by **50CC Cape Cod** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 12:52 pm

Thanks for the input. I would prefer to work at a bench as well instead of working in a tight space. However, having never done before it was indicated may put back together not lined up properly and have a problem. If take off would you just unscrew the cap to the tower and lift spring slide assembly out with cable attched as is leaving slide complete assembly attached to scooter? Then when done with jet cleaning on removed from scooter carb just reassemble slide assembly back in tower and remount the carb. Was not sure if that approach not the best for the needle or if this is the usual approach used.

charlie55 · Post by **charlie55** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 1:36 pm

The carbs on my first two rides (Blur, Helix) were of the CV type, but the one on my CB is a round slide. Regardless, I always remove the whole unit. As long as you have a diagram of the carb and take your time, you should be OK. However, if you want to take the half-on, half-off approach, that's OK too. It all boils down to your comfort level. I prefer chasing springs and dropped parts within the confines of a nice, warm basement rather than a cluttered, ice-cold garage.

PeteH · Post by **PeteH** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 2:15 pm

If you're not leaving puddles under the scoot while idling, the float valve is probably OK, so I wouldn't mess with it.If you're only reworking the jets, I'd opt for the on-the-bike approach. Leave the throttle and choke cabling/wiring attached, and just disconnect the carb at the intake and exhaust, then swing it up to remove the bowl screws. I would avoid opening up the top of the carb myself. Much less to go wrong.

On my old Honda 4 I had four carbs ganged together in a bank, and you had to remove the whole enchilada at once. Not fun getting all those hose clamps on and off, especially on the 2 and 3 cylinders.

Raiderfn311 · Post by **Raiderfn311** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 2:37 pm

Ive already resigned myself to doing all the oil changes and valve adjustments, now on to the carb. Very good advice all-around.

50CC Cape Cod · Post by **50CC Cape Cod** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 3:32 pm

Sounds good a lot of helpful advice. There is no puddles or problems yet. The scooters have been in storage a few years so cleaning up the fuel systems and will see how spring start ups go. I think the half approach may be the way to go, till as indicated comfort level increases and chance of chasing loose pieces decreases. Am planning on using some Sea-Foam as a follow up as long as I can get them to start. Any thought regarding the small spots of rust on the bottom of the tank?

Raiderfn311 · Post by **Raiderfn311** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 3:55 pm

Clean it out.

50CC Cape Cod · Post by **50CC Cape Cod** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 9:25 pm

Since only a few small areas not wanting to get into acid treatments etc.
Thought maybe Never-Dull and then rinse with carb cleaner. Any thoughts with this approach or other recommendations?