Valve sound.

Raiderfn311 · Post by **Raiderfn311** » Fri Mar 16, 2012 5:59 pm

Would anyone with first-hand knowledge describe the sound of valves that need adjusting. I think Im hearing a faint "clicking" but I may be wrong. I have a feeler gauge on the way, so Im doing a valve adjustment next weekend, Im just curious as to how serious it may be.

PeteH · Post by **PeteH** » Fri Mar 16, 2012 6:29 pm

Ticking can mean two things - either the valve clearance is drifting off (too much clearance), or you may be a little low on oil, and it's not circulating all the way up.

TVB · Post by **TVB** » Fri Mar 16, 2012 7:37 pm

...or that crocodile that swallowed a clock (and Captain Hook's hand) is nearby.

Raiderfn311 · Post by **Raiderfn311** » Fri Mar 16, 2012 9:31 pm

PeteH wrote:Ticking can mean two things - either the valve clearance is drifting off (too much clearance), or you may be a little low on oil, and it's not circulating all the way up.

Well Pete, this may be one of those things where I started listening for it so all of a sudden its there.(In my head maybe) The oil is tip-top. Hasnt used any since last oil change 1300 miles ago. In any case, Im doing a valve adjustment(my first) not this weekend but next. Any tips would be appreciated. Ive already read the tutorial on this forum and it looks pretty easy. Probably the hardest thing will be reconnecting the the vent hose to the intake hose. I just changed the air filter, and reconnectiong the filter to the hose was the biggest PITA. Thanks for the help.

Syd · Post by **Syd** » Fri Mar 16, 2012 10:11 pm

Tip 1: Check first, because they're probably close. Don't go in there expecting to have to change anything and loosen up the nut right off. Check the clearance first and make sure a change is needed.

Tip 2: Correct gap doesn't mean the gauge slides through there easily. It should be a little snug, but fit without forcing.

Tip 3: The engine can't be too cold. That doesn't mean that it needs to be 'kinda cold' or anything. Let it sit overnight and set the valves first thing in the morning.

Tip 4: If you get it right the first try, you need to change careers and become a mechanic! You will probably have to fiddle with the adjustment screw and locking nut a couple times before you get the lash set just right.

Post by **ericalm** » Fri Mar 16, 2012 10:30 pm

Raiderfn311 wrote:Would anyone with first-hand knowledge describe the sound of valves that need adjusting. I think Im hearing a faint "clicking" but I may be wrong. I have a feeler gauge on the way, so Im doing a valve adjustment next weekend, Im just curious as to how serious it may be.

Is the ticking more pronounced at lower speeds?

Valces are a good call on this.

Raiderfn311 · Post by **Raiderfn311** » Fri Mar 16, 2012 10:57 pm

^Eric,It seems to be louder when Im accelerating to get to higher speeds.

Like I said, this could be a phantom noise thats always been there and Im just imagining it. I dont hear it at idle when Im listening in my garage. When you are on the road so many other things can cause noise, so I think I may be paranoid. Honestly(And of course not your fault), when I heard you screwed your top-end because of a valve it made me think. I'll definetely feel better once I get in there and look, and thanks to the advice Ive gotten here, It should be a pleasant experience. Syd, good sound advice, many thanks.

Edit-Ive got the tappet tool from Scooterworks, so If anybody has used one, any advice would be great.

PeteH · Post by **PeteH** » Sat Mar 17, 2012 1:44 am

Re: the oil - I only mention it because that's a sure sign that the level's low in one of my leaky old cars - when I hear a ticking from one of the valve tappets.

What Syd said - the engine needs to be dead cold. Overnight cold. Do NOT start it before the job.

I haven't yet set the valves on my Buddy, but did it all the time on my old Honda 4cyl. Remember to rotate the engine around just like in the service manual's picture. The MotionPro tool should make it easy to hold the adjuster in position while locking it down with the handle. Be sure to check with the feeler gauge (.08mm) after the adjustment to make sure it didn't slip. Not so tight you can't get the gauge in, not so loose that there's no friction, but just a bit of friction.

Let us know how the MP tool works.

Raiderfn311 · Post by **Raiderfn311** » Fri Mar 23, 2012 8:39 pm

Just did my valve adjustment. Both valves were a bit tight, as I could not fit the feeler in. The tappet tool was helpful, although the frame of the bike made it difficult on the top valve. I adjusted them so that there is friction, but not too much.(I hope)

I just got a t-handle 8mm socket from MotionPro that works great. After I put it back together I cranked it up for a bit, and it purred like a kitten. Thanks for all the help guys.

Post by **ericalm** » Fri Mar 23, 2012 9:11 pm

Raiderfn311 wrote:I just got a t-handle 8mm socket from MotionPro that works great.

My favorite tool! Makes a lot of things much easier.

viney266 · Post by **viney266** » Sat Mar 24, 2012 12:22 am

Syds advice is SPOT-on.

Most valves you will find are TIGHT not loose. Especially on the exhaust, but as he said check them first before loosening the adjustment nut

Things that can sound like "valve" noise:

1.) small exhaust leak, especially at the head

2.) cam chain noise on many bikes. This is usually at idle and goes away as you "rev" the engine.

3) Low oil ( as mentioned )

4.) loose spark plug.

Just some pointers:)...Take your time, and as others said, make sure she is cold.

Post by **ericalm** » Sat Mar 24, 2012 12:38 am

I had the noise for some time on my LX. Was sure it was the transmission. Went up and down through that thing several times. Shrugged.

The valve somehow came loose, dropped into the cylinder and trashed my top end. After replacing? No more noise!

Raiderfn311 · Post by **Raiderfn311** » Mon Mar 26, 2012 9:17 pm

Slight problem here. The clicking noise seems to be a little worse. I thought I was spot-on with the adjustment. I let the bike sit over night, the found both if the valves were tight. I could not get a 0.08mm feeler in there. So, I loosened them up until there a was pretty good friction on the feeler. I guess Ill go back in there this weekend.

Raiderfn311 · Post by **Raiderfn311** » Mon Mar 26, 2012 9:18 pm

ericalm wrote:I had the noise for some time on my LX. Was sure it was the transmission. Went up and down through that thing several times. Shrugged.

The valve somehow came loose, dropped into the cylinder and trashed my top end. After replacing? No more noise!

Is that when you put on the 190 kit?

Post by **ericalm** » Mon Mar 26, 2012 11:41 pm

Raiderfn311 wrote:
ericalm wrote:I had the noise for some time on my LX. Was sure it was the transmission. Went up and down through that thing several times. Shrugged.

The valve somehow came loose, dropped into the cylinder and trashed my top end. After replacing? No more noise!
Is that when you put on the 190 kit?

No, I already had that on, with 13K or so on it. I had to put another in, of course. Ka-ching.

Raiderfn311 · Post by **Raiderfn311** » Sat Mar 31, 2012 2:27 pm

I just "went back in" and the valve on top was a bit tight. Must have tightened in too much when I screwed it tight. I feel good about it now. Buddy happy=Me happy

k1dude · Post by **k1dude** » Sat Mar 31, 2012 6:13 pm

viney266 wrote:Syds advice is SPOT-on.

Most valves you will find are TIGHT not loose. Especially on the exhaust, but as he said check them first before loosening the adjustment nut

Things that can sound like "valve" noise:

1.) small exhaust leak, especially at the head

2.) cam chain noise on many bikes. This is usually at idle and goes away as you "rev" the engine.

3) Low oil ( as mentioned )

4.) loose spark plug.

Just some pointers:)...Take your time, and as others said, make sure she is cold.

Add a pebble for #5. Believe it or not, a pebble stuck in a tire groove or a tack in the tread can drive you nuts. I've had people think it was a valve until we found and removed the black tack.

Modern Buddy

Valve sound.

Valve sound.

Re: Valve sound.