Is there a connection between the starter and the horn?

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sambrgr
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Is there a connection between the starter and the horn?

Post by sambrgr »

I know it seems like a strange question but both of mine seemed to go south at the same time. I get a couple of weak tries out of both of them then total failure. I've been using the kick starter with no problems, except, if I try the thumb starter or the horn it seems to drain the battery
making kickstarting more difficult. There are no other apparent problems, other than those two issues it runs like a top. Anyone else have a similar
issue? Any insight on a diagnosis would be a great help.
Thanks
S-
mhardgrove
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Post by mhardgrove »

Not an electrical wizard by any means, but you may want to check your ground if it's an intermittent problem. Start with the battery and if that's not the solution check the ground to the frame/engine points. If its draining the battery you may also have a short somewhere in the system. I'm sure others can point out how to use a voltmeter to check for shorts in the system. Just check your battery really quick to see if anything is loose or corroded.

I HATE ELECTRICAL ISSUES!!!
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ericalm
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Post by ericalm »

There is a connection in terms of general electrical issues would cause both to get all wonky. Both are fed off the same cables on the battery. Both require more juice than most of your lights.

As mhardgrove suggested, the first thing to check would be the battery. Do you have a voltage meter? IIRC, should read around 11-12V while idling and up to 14 or so when revving the engine. (Have someone stand on the center stand while revving the engine. Never do this on the kickstand!)

You can also just bring the battery to a shop to have it tested. Your scooter shop may even charge it for free.
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SYMbionic Duo
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Post by SYMbionic Duo »

The horn, the starter and the turn signals all run off the battery. Everything else runs off the flywheel. Sounds like the battery either can't hold a charge, or your regulator/rectifier is bad thus not charging the battery.
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BuddyRaton
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Post by BuddyRaton »

I would check the fuse and the fuse housing first. It's free to do without swapping parts. Are your blinkers working?

If it is the original battery it is probably time for a new one, they don't last forever!
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ericalm
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Post by ericalm »

BuddyRaton wrote:I would check the fuse and the fuse housing first. It's free to do without swapping parts. Are your blinkers working?

If it is the original battery it is probably time for a new one, they don't last forever!
I don't think they'd work at all if it was the fuse.
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sambrgr
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repairs to date

Post by sambrgr »

New battery, new starter solinoid. I tried jumping the post on the solinoid
but got weak results and no start. In hindsight Im unsure if the battery was fully charged and unable to turn the starter.
The horn will work after I take it off the tender but eventually go wonky.
Same thing with the electric starter, I get one half hearted turnover and start per charge.
All other systems are fully functional.
I'm thinking,
bad battery
bad starter
bad reglator/rectifier
Any ideas welcome.
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SYMbionic Duo
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Post by SYMbionic Duo »

really sounds like the battery.

When you charge the battery, does the charger say that it is fully charged?

Get a new battery, if the new battery dies, soon after being replaced, then it is the reg/rec either way both are easier to replace and usually less expensive than a new starter.
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PeteH
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Post by PeteH »

I think the OP's _got_ a new battery - look up one post.
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jrsjr
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Re: repairs to date

Post by jrsjr »

sambrgr wrote:New battery, new starter solinoid. I tried jumping the post on the solinoid
but got weak results and no start. In hindsight Im unsure if the battery was fully charged and unable to turn the starter.
The horn will work after I take it off the tender but eventually go wonky.
Same thing with the electric starter, I get one half hearted turnover and start per charge.
All other systems are fully functional.
I'm thinking,
bad battery
bad starter
bad reglator/rectifier
Any ideas welcome.
If you're going to troubleshoot this yourself, you're going to need a voltmeter. Do you have one/can you get your hands on one?
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sambrgr
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update

Post by sambrgr »

We put a volt meter on the battery and got a 10.6 reading with no signifigant change while revving the engine, maybe 10.8 if I remember correctly. So i'm going to conclude its the reg/rec since the battery
is not taking a charge. The local dealer has one for under $30.
Thanks for all the help folks!
S-
Crazy88s
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Post by Crazy88s »

I would check the fuse as well I had weird issues with my buddy and a new fuse fixed the problem.
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Po
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Post by Po »

I recently purchased a used '09 buddy 125 with original battery. I have to put it on a battery tender every few days or else it won't start. Additionally those times I have to kick start it the turn signals, horn, and gas gauge fail to work. After a charge on the tender they all work fine for another few days, so I'm assuming the only problem I have is that I need to get a new battery.
mhardgrove
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Post by mhardgrove »

If you use Amazon look up "chrome battery" and whatever size you want. I bought one shipped for less than $30. It came sealed and fully charged, no dumping acid everywhere then having to charge it for hours!

Ended up getting a 9BS and trimmed the tabs off of the battery cover because it's more powerful and physically larger than the stock one. With the tabs trimmed the 9BS fits the battery space perfectly. Had one close to a month with 0 complaints, so far it has performed great. Nothing wrong in getting the stock size, I wanted something more powerful.
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agrogod
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Post by agrogod »

Ok here's the simple question. How far are you riding?
"When your mouth is yapping your arms stop flapping, get to work" - a quote from my father R.I.P..
always start with the simple, it may end up costing you little to nothing
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