[NBR]Auto Choke Bypass for Elite CH80

RoaringTodd · Post by **RoaringTodd** » Wed Sep 12, 2012 3:46 pm

I am having difficulty starting my CH80 in the mornings. Those Elite's are notoriously difficult to start, and the consensus is that it is the autobystarter. It is a electronic choke on the carb is known to fail.

I am curious if any of you could give me an idea on how to bypass the automatic choke and fashion a manual choke I could turn on/off with a switch?

RT

Robbie · Post by **Robbie** » Wed Sep 12, 2012 4:17 pm

The by-start valve is a needle valve that opens an additional fuel and air port.
By doing so, it will have a faster cold idle speed and additional fuel to compensate.
There is no choke butterfly so there really is not a secondary method the enrich the mixture.

That being said, be certain that the rubber manifold between carb and head is not cracked......this allows air in the side and makes starting a beeeeeaaaach.....idle quality is a bit shabby as well, for obvious reasons.
This is extremely common on CH-80.

If that looks good, remove the by-start valve from the carb....easy to find as it has a wire running to it.
Using 4 ought steel wool or a sponge with the one side being coarse, like for cleaning porcelin, polish the needle.
Often, the needle sticks in the bore because of oxygenated fuel residue.
You may see a distict ring around the needle......you may spray a bit of carb cleaner into the oriface bit it really isn't needed.

Re assemble and see how you did.
BTW, there is a mixture screw.....it has a 'flag' cast into the side of it.
Using a hacksaw blade, gently slice the flag off and you now have adjustable idle mixture......if it is like every other CH it is looking for about a 1/2 turn counterclockwise.

Truth be told I have far more rotted manifolds than bystarter issues.

Rob

az_slynch · Post by **az_slynch** » Wed Sep 12, 2012 5:02 pm

I agree with Robbie on cleaning it carefully and looking for binding points for the bystarter. Make sure that the plastic isolator is still installed between the carb and the manifold too. Without the isolator, the mounting bolts for the carb can deform the carb body on some Honda models (Sprees and Elite Es come to mind).

Try this part, if you insist on bypassing the bystarter:

http://www.1977mopeds.com/phva-flip-choke-kit.html

RoaringTodd · Post by **RoaringTodd** » Thu Sep 13, 2012 2:13 pm

Thanks guys! It's great to get responses like this. I appreciate the feedback. I am tempted to go out and tear apart the Elite and start wrenching - Abby's sitting right there outside my office window staring back at me.

However, I'm afraid of doing something fubar and not getting her started for the Rockers vs MOD event going on in Philly this Sunday.

Although, I have no idea where a 1980's styling Honda Elite fits in that scene. It'd be fun to find out... I hope....

I'll start working on her Monday. Thanks again -

RT

RoaringTodd · Post by **RoaringTodd** » Wed Sep 26, 2012 11:07 am

Robbie and az_slynch - Thanks for your advise - opened her up and gave her a look see... The air intake to the carb hose clamp was loose and air was getting in there. Odd thing, the whole area was dirty with oil/dirt.

Checked the oil - way past full. Previous owner had just done an oil change, so they must have overfilled.

Drained the oil, changed the air filter, drained the emissions tube, new air intake hose clamp, adjusted the idle = success story. Lil' Abby is starting up so easily in the morning.

Thanks guys!

Robbie · Post by **Robbie** » Wed Sep 26, 2012 12:11 pm

Good to hear it worked out.

I really think the by-start valve gets blamed much to often for other issues.
And as you found out, CH-80's will saturate the air filter with oil if overfilled.....the oil/air separater gets overwhelmed.

Have fun and thanks for getting back to us.

Rob