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How to Torque the Variator and Clutch Advice
Posted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 3:19 am
by averacpa
Hi Folks,
I hope someone can shed a bit of light on my question.
I am replacing the variator/slider and clutch spring on my Buddy 125. I can get the nuts off with my impact wrench, but putting them back on and torquing them is another thing given that both the engine and rear wheel spin.
I have a torque wrench, but if I use that they both spin. Not sure how to lock them from spinning. If I use the impact wrench, I might over tighten the nut.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Andrew
Posted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 6:11 am
by ericalm
Variator holder tool:
topic21796.html#293020
Posted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 12:29 pm
by averacpa
Thanks for the reply, but I am using the Dr. Pulley variator and it does not have attachment screw holes.
Posted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 7:24 pm
by Tocsik
I use a Craftsman strap wrench to hold the variator or clutch and a torque wrench on the nut. It's difficult but I do it all the time.
Edit: Wear gloves (especially on your left hand) when tightening this way.
Unless you like the scraped-up mechanic knuckles look.

Posted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 5:56 pm
by BootScootin'FireFighter
I use the scooterworks variator tool with a torque wrench to tighten down the variator. 1 person job. For the clutch bell, I'll ask someone to sit on the bike off the centerstand holding the brakes, then just clamp it down with an impact wrench. Don't forget to use loctite!
Posted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 7:04 pm
by Syd
BootScootin'FireFighter wrote:Don't forget to use loctite!
Blue.
Posted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 8:14 pm
by easy
I dont think its a good ideal to use impact wrench to tighten the axel nut for the clutch. The axel enters from the other side going thru some bearings. The axel has a lip on the exhaust side and sets in a pocket on the other side of the bearing. Over tighting that nut puts alot of side load on that bearing I got changing out bearings down to a 1.5 - 2 hr job before i relized what I was doing.
Posted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 9:52 pm
by Tocsik
BootScootin'FireFighter wrote:I use the scooterworks variator tool with a torque wrench to tighten down the variator. 1 person job. For the clutch bell, I'll ask someone to sit on the bike off the centerstand holding the brakes, then just clamp it down with an impact wrench. Don't forget to use loctite!
The OP has the Dr. Pulley variator and those don't have the attachments for the variator tool.
Posted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 3:51 am
by PIStaker
Have always used my impact wrench to remove.
I tried to improvise the first go around and ended up breaking 2 fins off of the variator.
...that was some time ago though.
As far as the specific torque settings, I low all low tech.
I take a sharpie, draw a line on the bolt and nut.
Then get it as close as possible.
I've never worried too much about it, and I've never had an issue.
I don't recommend this, but it's worked for me.
Posted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 8:26 pm
by rick71454
Hello BuddyLand:
I had changed my roller weights and drive belt myself. The first time I removed the nut that secures the drive pulleys and variator, I did not fit it back together in the best way and ended up damaging the splines on the end of the engine drive shaft. I discovered this the second time I removed the drive pulleys. The second time put the nut back on , I made sure the whole thing was alingned better with the splines. I understand that replacing a drive shaft is expensive.
I also used an impact wrench to remove and put the nut back on.
Do any of you prefer to use that tool to hold the drive pulley in place from spinning with use of regular socket wrench........over the use of an impact wrench? Do you think the use of the impact wrench is hard on the splines?
Anyone out there damage the splines on the end of their engine crankshaft?
How did you deal with it later?
Thanks
Rick71454
Posted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 8:57 pm
by ericalm
An impact wrench is good for removing the nuts, not so good for replacing them because you can't control torque and it's easy to overdo it and, as you know, damage the splines. I know some people and mechanics use them for this, but it's risky given how hard it is to replace the shaft.
How you deal with it depends on the damage. If the threads are good enough to hold it all together, you might be okay. If not, replacement is your only real option.
Having the variator nut too loose can hinder performance and damage your variator. If it spins off, you can have zero performance and a damaged variator.
A proper toque wrench is really the best way to go!
Posted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 8:58 pm
by BuddyRaton
rick71454 wrote:Hello BuddyLand:
I had changed my roller weights and drive belt myself. The first time I removed the nut that secures the drive pulleys and variator, I did not fit it back together in the best way and ended up damaging the splines on the end of the engine drive shaft. I discovered this the second time I removed the drive pulleys. The second time put the nut back on , I made sure the whole thing was alingned better with the splines. I understand that replacing a drive shaft is expensive.
I also used an impact wrench to remove and put the nut back on.
Do any of you prefer to use that tool to hold the drive pulley in place from spinning with use of regular socket wrench........over the use of an impact wrench? Do you think the use of the impact wrench is hard on the splines?
Anyone out there damage the splines on the end of their engine crankshaft?
How did you deal with it later?
Thanks
Rick71454
Reinstalling with an impact probably woun't hurt the splines...but it could mess up a lot of other things.
And yes...I have worked on a Buddy that the person did not torque the variator nut tight enough, it came off, broke the belt and damaged the splines. I took a dremel with a flex shaft and a cut off wheel (well...probably 15 cut off wheels) and cleaned up all the splines. Tedious but it has been running fine...after we properly torqued the variator!