Modern Buddy

Hi, I got a new battery for my buddy 125, but the electric push start wont work, it clicks, but wont turn over. The kick starter works, and starts it up. Do I need a new starter? or Stator? I live in Mexico and there are not any good mechanics here. Please help with any advice.

Thank you

I'd make sure your connections are tight, and the battery is fully charged with a trickle charger......

SonnyD wrote:I'd make sure your connections are tight, and the battery is fully charged with a trickle charger......

The battery connections are tight the battery is fully charged, with a battery tender. the clicking comes from the right side near the seat.

The horn and lights work, and fuse is good.

Starter relay.

i would try tapping: GENTLY : with a blunt object on it.. if still does not work replace.

Throwback7R wrote:Starter relay.

i would try tapping: GENTLY : with a blunt object on it.. if still does not work replace.

Ok thank you very much. I will try it tomorrow.

also, have you measured the voltage of the battery.... Never assume a battery is fully charged just because a light on a charger tells you so.... I wouldn't trust a battery tender to fully charge a batter. Battery tenders are made for topping of and maintaining a charge.....

also, have you measured the voltage of the battery.... Never assume a battery is fully charged just because a light on a charger tells you so.... I wouldn't trust a battery tender to fully charge a battery, they are made for topping on and maintaining a charge.....

Many operators forget there are safety switches in the brake levers.
If I can assume you are pulling in the lever while pushing the starter button, then a test light will be needed for additional diagnostics.

The starter relay is a magnetic switch that, when triggered will indeed make a audible click.
You will note that the relay is the first stop for the positive battery cable, and this is a large lug with the cable secured to it with a nut.
Across the relay is another, same size cable, also secured with a nut.
This cable goes fron the relay to another stud connecter on the starter motor.
Using a test light, attach the alligator ground clip to any convenient steel part of the chassis or the negative cable at the battery.
Touch the test light probe to the positive battery terminal, this to prove the light works and your ground connection is secure.

Touch the probe against the relay were the positive cable is attached.
The stud and the cable eylet should both light the test lamp.
Test both because I have had situations were the eyelet was live but the stud was not....there was corrosion between the two isolating the circuit.
Since you indicate a audible click, I doubt if there is a problem at this point, but test anyways.

If all is well, you need three hands or a helper to turn on the key, hold the brake laver, and hold the starter button down.
With the above handled, touch the other (output) stud of the relay with the probe......if it lights, release and press the button a couple of times.
The relay should click and the light should light with each press of the button.
Test at the output stud and output eylet to verify there is a sound connection.

If the light illuminates during this test, follow the cable down to the starter power stud.
Same test as above, test the stud as well as the eyelet.
If you have current to this point, turn off the key.

Attach the test light clip to the positive battery terminal.
You are now going to verify the starter motor is grounded to the engine by touching the starter motor anywhere metallic with the test light probe.
If the light lights, you have proven ground is sound.

Ok.....If you did everything as I said.......and.......the light did not light during the first test of the relay, it needs a relay.
To prove the starter is OK, you can use the handles from a pair of pliers (this is a bit butchery sounding but I don't know what you are working with) and jump across the two main terminals.
There will be a spark at the moment of connection but a good starter will now spin the engine.
Doing this proves the relay is the culprit and the starter is OK.

Hope that helps......ten minutes of writing for a three minute diagnostic, heh, heh.

Good luck,
Rob

Robbie wrote:Many operators forget there are safety switches in the brake levers.
If I can assume you are pulling in the lever while pushing the starter button, then a test light will be needed for additional diagnostics.

The starter relay is a magnetic switch that, when triggered will indeed make a audible click.
You will note that the relay is the first stop for the positive battery cable, and this is a large lug with the cable secured to it with a nut.
Across the relay is another, same size cable, also secured with a nut.
This cable goes fron the relay to another stud connecter on the starter motor.
Using a test light, attach the alligator ground clip to any convenient steel part of the chassis or the negative cable at the battery.
Touch the test light probe to the positive battery terminal, this to prove the light works and your ground connection is secure.

Touch the probe against the relay were the positive cable is attached.
The stud and the cable eylet should both light the test lamp.
Test both because I have had situations were the eyelet was live but the stud was not....there was corrosion between the two isolating the circuit.
Since you indicate a audible click, I doubt if there is a problem at this point, but test anyways.

If all is well, you need three hands or a helper to turn on the key, hold the brake laver, and hold the starter button down.
With the above handled, touch the other (output) stud of the relay with the probe......if it lights, release and press the button a couple of times.
The relay should click and the light should light with each press of the button.
Test at the output stud and output eylet to verify there is a sound connection.

If the light illuminates during this test, follow the cable down to the starter power stud.
Same test as above, test the stud as well as the eyelet.
If you have current to this point, turn off the key.

Attach the test light clip to the positive battery terminal.
You are now going to verify the starter motor is grounded to the engine by touching the starter motor anywhere metallic with the test light probe.
If the light lights, you have proven ground is sound.

Ok.....If you did everything as I said.......and.......the light did not light during the first test of the relay, it needs a relay.
To prove the starter is OK, you can use the handles from a pair of pliers (this is a bit butchery sounding but I don't know what you are working with) and jump across the two main terminals.
There will be a spark at the moment of connection but a good starter will now spin the engine.
Doing this proves the relay is the culprit and the starter is OK.

Hope that helps......ten minutes of writing for a three minute diagnostic, heh, heh.

Good luck,
Rob

Lots of great info here. I will try all of the above. just for good measure I will order starter relay and starter motor.

Thanks for all the help.

Robbie, in a pinch could you use a multimeter set on ohm in place of the light?

agrogod wrote:Robbie, in a pinch could you use a multimeter set on ohm in place of the light?

You could....but the light is just a faster way to prove flow.
If we are trying to see resistance, then the digi stuff is the only way.

This is just a inexpensive and acurrate way to prove a cicuit is sound.....fast too.

Rob

Changed the relay. And there is power going to the starter. Looks like a bad starter motor. The OEM starter is $200 bucks. A Chinese starter is $ 26. Should I go with the Chinese starter???

Unfortunately I don't think the generic Chinese GY6 starter fits on the Buddy. Someone who's installed a replacement might chime in to confirm.

UGH i was hoping it was not the starter the starter " should be the same gy6 starter

I would try and give the starter 12 volts first to make sure it is not the switch on the handle bars.

My friend picked up a PGO starter and I will install... I hope this does it.