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Battery Keeps Draining

Posted: Fri Sep 06, 2013 3:53 am
by buddy50cc
I recently purchased a used Genuine Buddy 50cc. I never had a moped before but have really enjoyed it in the past few days.

The unfortunate thing is, the battery drained 1 day after purchase, so I got a new battery. It's now a week later and that battery seems to be dead too!

I can't afford to fix it and was hoping I could try and repair it myself.

Some more details:
  • Its a Buddy 50 made by the Genuine Scooter Co.
    The ignition hasn't worked since I purchased it; I only kickstart it (maybe this has something to do with it?!)
    I believe the battery is the reason it won't start because the brake lights don't turn on when the switch is flicked.
Any info you guys could provide would be greatly appreciated :)

Posted: Fri Sep 06, 2013 6:53 am
by michelle_7728
1. I'm sorry to hear you are having issues. :(
2. It's a scooter, not a moped. :P

You might take the battery back and have them check it out for you. It would not be the first time a battery has been DOA....but before you do that, have you checked the fuse?

It might be that the fuse is blown. Pull off the front cover (2 screws on top in the back and one in the front. There is a 1 amp fuse in there you will want to check.

Here's a thread talking with things to look for: viewtopic.php?t=25587&highlight=fuse

Also, you might want to invest in a Battery Tender.

Good luck, and be sure to update the thread with your findings. :)

Posted: Fri Sep 06, 2013 12:33 pm
by Throwback7R
So the Key switch does not work? or the starter button ?

If the key switch is messed up I would gather that is what is causing your issue.

Is anything plugged into the 12v socket?

The battery is really small on the 50 so that could be an issue as well.

Posted: Fri Sep 06, 2013 1:01 pm
by PeteH
If the ignition switch hasn't 'worked' since you've owned it, chances are the scoot was stolen at some point in its life and the ignition switch was jammed (using a screwdriver or such) in the 'on' position. If this is true, you're needing to kill the engine using the handlebar kill switch, yes? If so, the engine stops, but other electrical circuits are still energized. Tail light and other drains of current are then discharging your battery.

While you _can_ continue like you are, with a discharged battery and having to kick-start, you'll be better-served in the long run by getting the ignition lock/switch assembly repaired. I'm assuming that the seat-locking mechanism still works (otherwise you'd be out of gas soon), and perhaps also the steering column lock works, but if not, all the more reason to get this fixed sooner rather than later.