BUDDY 125 HUB STRAIGHTENER
Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2014 11:29 pm
Hello all. I've been a Genuine Buddy 125 owner for a few weeks now, and all I have to say is sourcing parts for this scooter was A LOT more challenging than I had imagined it would be. Even though some retailers show the parts I need on their websites/calling them, as many of you already know, most have to be special ordered from PGO out of Taiwan.
PREFACE: This is what I did only for myself, to use as a stop gap until I could find the right parts. I DO NOT recommend that anyone else attempt to recreate this tool or attempt this method. I absolve myself from any responsibility from any reader of this post doing the herein. I actually left out the visual step by step process for this reason
I have been trying to find a used front wheel for my buddy for a while now, and it has been a pretty exhausting effort. I don't plan to give up, but in an attempt to make sure that no other problems existed prior to registering and insuring this scoot (If more problems were found I would most likely just sell it for parts), I wanted to to be able to at least ride the scooter up to speed in front of my house, an impossibility with the shape the wheel was in prior to this process and the fact that I bought it wrecked and had never seen it ride, though I knew the motor started and ran strong, a plus to move forward with this build.
When taking a second and third look at my buddy"s entire front wheel, I realized that the design of this wheel is most likely the reason for everyone's frustrations with bent rims on this particular scooter (sometimes even from just an awkwardly struck pothole) I noticed that since the actual "spokes" of the rim were only on the "passenger" side of the scooter, that the hub just kind of floats out on the left side, or "driver's" side.
After observing this, I realized that the actual rim was not bent (24 point diameter check with a tape measure, I'm not an engineer nor a mathematician but I was going for close enough) , but rather, the hub inside the rim was tweaked/bent. Since the person who owned it before me had laid the bike down and then the front end struck a hard object, it seemed that the forced caused only the hub to move from its center position.
Since these rims are steel, I set out to figure a way to move the hub back into a more central location. Instead of using a hammer, which most likely would have just done even more damage, I wanted to design a tool that could generate the same types of forces that created the tweak in the first place, but in a much more controlled way.
What I came up with was buying two pre-made 1/8" thick raw steel cutouts from my local steel shop. They were 4.5" in diameter the same as the hub. I then tack welded them together to make the circles a total of 1/4" thick (similar thickness to the hub section where the brake rotor mounts). I then set the brake rotor over the circle, marked the holes and drilled them. After I got my drilled "puck," I test fit it over the hub to make sure I drilled correctly. I then welded a 4 foot long section of .120 wall, 1.5" HREW mild steel that I had left over from my truck build onto the puck.
Once I had my tool built, I attached it to the hub with three 10mm 10.9 bolts (metric equivalent to grade 8 ) and then slowly moved the hub into a more central location by standing on the wheel (brake rotor side up) and using the length of the tool as leverage. I used a tape measure starting out in 4 cardinal locations to get a general idea of the length differences between the hub and it's respective point on the inside of the rim lip. As I moved it I took measurements with each movement from about 12 different spots around the "driver's" side of the rim, from the edge of the hub to the inside of the rim splitting the differences of the measurements on opposing sides.
Even though the rim IS FAR FROM PERFECT(In my hyper-critical estimation) after this, it is still right around 1/32" off from being totally centered, which is right what I expected from the beginning. Hell, who knows how true it was out of the gate from the factory. Depending on how true it stays(it should stay, not expecting metal fatigue since total movement was between a 1/16" an 1/8") I may tack weld a few spots on the rim in the future, just for added peace of mind. Since I don't plan on selling the scooter to anyone ever, the only liability is my own. But I can tell you that the hub was not "weak" feeling whatsoever during this procedure.
Anyway I just figured that I would share my experience so that anyone in the same position may figure out their own solution. Maybe someones rim itself is still okay, but the hub is the problem. Like I said previously though, this is only to share my experience and offer people something to think about. Thanks
PREFACE: This is what I did only for myself, to use as a stop gap until I could find the right parts. I DO NOT recommend that anyone else attempt to recreate this tool or attempt this method. I absolve myself from any responsibility from any reader of this post doing the herein. I actually left out the visual step by step process for this reason
I have been trying to find a used front wheel for my buddy for a while now, and it has been a pretty exhausting effort. I don't plan to give up, but in an attempt to make sure that no other problems existed prior to registering and insuring this scoot (If more problems were found I would most likely just sell it for parts), I wanted to to be able to at least ride the scooter up to speed in front of my house, an impossibility with the shape the wheel was in prior to this process and the fact that I bought it wrecked and had never seen it ride, though I knew the motor started and ran strong, a plus to move forward with this build.
When taking a second and third look at my buddy"s entire front wheel, I realized that the design of this wheel is most likely the reason for everyone's frustrations with bent rims on this particular scooter (sometimes even from just an awkwardly struck pothole) I noticed that since the actual "spokes" of the rim were only on the "passenger" side of the scooter, that the hub just kind of floats out on the left side, or "driver's" side.
After observing this, I realized that the actual rim was not bent (24 point diameter check with a tape measure, I'm not an engineer nor a mathematician but I was going for close enough) , but rather, the hub inside the rim was tweaked/bent. Since the person who owned it before me had laid the bike down and then the front end struck a hard object, it seemed that the forced caused only the hub to move from its center position.
Since these rims are steel, I set out to figure a way to move the hub back into a more central location. Instead of using a hammer, which most likely would have just done even more damage, I wanted to design a tool that could generate the same types of forces that created the tweak in the first place, but in a much more controlled way.
What I came up with was buying two pre-made 1/8" thick raw steel cutouts from my local steel shop. They were 4.5" in diameter the same as the hub. I then tack welded them together to make the circles a total of 1/4" thick (similar thickness to the hub section where the brake rotor mounts). I then set the brake rotor over the circle, marked the holes and drilled them. After I got my drilled "puck," I test fit it over the hub to make sure I drilled correctly. I then welded a 4 foot long section of .120 wall, 1.5" HREW mild steel that I had left over from my truck build onto the puck.
Once I had my tool built, I attached it to the hub with three 10mm 10.9 bolts (metric equivalent to grade 8 ) and then slowly moved the hub into a more central location by standing on the wheel (brake rotor side up) and using the length of the tool as leverage. I used a tape measure starting out in 4 cardinal locations to get a general idea of the length differences between the hub and it's respective point on the inside of the rim lip. As I moved it I took measurements with each movement from about 12 different spots around the "driver's" side of the rim, from the edge of the hub to the inside of the rim splitting the differences of the measurements on opposing sides.
Even though the rim IS FAR FROM PERFECT(In my hyper-critical estimation) after this, it is still right around 1/32" off from being totally centered, which is right what I expected from the beginning. Hell, who knows how true it was out of the gate from the factory. Depending on how true it stays(it should stay, not expecting metal fatigue since total movement was between a 1/16" an 1/8") I may tack weld a few spots on the rim in the future, just for added peace of mind. Since I don't plan on selling the scooter to anyone ever, the only liability is my own. But I can tell you that the hub was not "weak" feeling whatsoever during this procedure.
Anyway I just figured that I would share my experience so that anyone in the same position may figure out their own solution. Maybe someones rim itself is still okay, but the hub is the problem. Like I said previously though, this is only to share my experience and offer people something to think about. Thanks