Buddy Blackjack Headlamp Urgrade
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- Roofaloof
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- Joined: Sat Jun 08, 2013 8:11 am
- Location: Seattle, WA
Buddy Blackjack Headlamp Urgrade
So yesterday I planned on adding two relays to my headlamp circuit to improve my lighting. Much to my surprise, I found that the headlamp operates on AC voltage. The automotive relays I planned on using weren't going to work.
I'm thinking of rewiring the circuit so that the headlamp switch is fed DC voltage. I found a wire that was switched from the key. However, this wire is "hot" before the engine turns on.
Will having my headlamp turn on before the engine does cause me any issues? I could imagine it would cause some voltage drop and make starting more difficult.
Is there a better solution I'm not thinking of?
I'm thinking of rewiring the circuit so that the headlamp switch is fed DC voltage. I found a wire that was switched from the key. However, this wire is "hot" before the engine turns on.
Will having my headlamp turn on before the engine does cause me any issues? I could imagine it would cause some voltage drop and make starting more difficult.
Is there a better solution I'm not thinking of?
-
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You're absolutely correct. But the wire he mentions that's hot before starting the engine is a DC line that he's planning to use, not the circuit that currently feeds the headlight.My Buddy125 wrote:The only thing that is ac electic is the current that comes out of the charging system before it goes through the voltage regulator. The whole bike runs on 12v dc. If this wire is "hot" before the engine turns on its 12v dc. Before the engine is running the only power is from the battery.
- Roofaloof
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- Location: Seattle, WA
I've thought about the PIAA bulb, but my headlamp is only getting 11v right now. Anything I put in there won't be as bright as it could be.
Right. The wire I'm planning to use is switched on by the key and runs direct off the battery.
I was thinking about feeding the light directly off the voltage regulator. This would get me a DC signal and assure the battery voltage isn't being pulled down by the headlamp before the engine starts.
Right. The wire I'm planning to use is switched on by the key and runs direct off the battery.
I was thinking about feeding the light directly off the voltage regulator. This would get me a DC signal and assure the battery voltage isn't being pulled down by the headlamp before the engine starts.
- Roofaloof
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- Location: Seattle, WA
So I checked my voltage rectifier last night. It's only DC output is "hot" at all times. It must be directly connected to the battery.
I decided I don't want the headlamp on with the key. This could lead to more difficult starting. It would also kill the battery very quickly if the bike was left keyed on for some reason.
My plan now is to use the 11v AC wire that feeds the headlamp to switch the relay. I'll push the voltage through a rectifier before the relay. One of these should do the trick: http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Single-Phas ... =rectifier
I'm learning a lot about working on a scooter with this project!
I decided I don't want the headlamp on with the key. This could lead to more difficult starting. It would also kill the battery very quickly if the bike was left keyed on for some reason.
My plan now is to use the 11v AC wire that feeds the headlamp to switch the relay. I'll push the voltage through a rectifier before the relay. One of these should do the trick: http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Single-Phas ... =rectifier
I'm learning a lot about working on a scooter with this project!
- JettaKnight
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- Location: Fort Wayne
So then you'll power the headlamp from the battery? Are you sure that regulator can supply the headlamp (~ 3A) and charge the battery without overheating or burning out?Roofaloof wrote:So I checked my voltage rectifier last night. It's only DC output is "hot" at all times. It must be directly connected to the battery.
I decided I don't want the headlamp on with the key. This could lead to more difficult starting. It would also kill the battery very quickly if the bike was left keyed on for some reason.
My plan now is to use the 11v AC wire that feeds the headlamp to switch the relay. I'll push the voltage through a rectifier before the relay. One of these should do the trick: http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Single-Phas ... =rectifier
I'm learning a lot about working on a scooter with this project!
Also, you'll be running the relay from a chopped DC source - they don't like that and it could chatter.
While I admire your enthusiasm, there's a say that comes to mind, "knows just enough to be dangerous."
- skully93
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The other part is the electronics BEHIND the headlamp. There's not a lot of insulation in there, so if it gets hot, you could warp/melt some things.
If you just want more light, the PIAA is the same voltage but much brighter. Add in LED running lights from VSP. and you should be able to see for a good long way.
Keep in mind the physical limitations of the small headset. It's never going to be a car.
If you just want more light, the PIAA is the same voltage but much brighter. Add in LED running lights from VSP. and you should be able to see for a good long way.
Keep in mind the physical limitations of the small headset. It's never going to be a car.
- JettaKnight
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- Roofaloof
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- Joined: Sat Jun 08, 2013 8:11 am
- Location: Seattle, WA
No, I don’t know if the regulator has enough overhead to accommodate the headlamp. From what I’ve read around here, that 3A extra does seem borderline for it.
I’m considering adding in one or two LED lights instead of messing with the headlamp. This way I could turn them on/off separately and only stress the electrical system as needed.Skully93 wrote:Add in LED running lights from VSP. and you should be able to see for a good long way.
Agreed. I decided against dropping an HID into the headlight for this reason.JettaKnight wrote:Also keep in mind you do share the road. It's not very polite or safe to blind oncoming traffic.
Definitely.JettaKnight wrote:"knows just enough to be dangerous."