Does anyone use a CHT gauge? If so, where did you mount the sensor?
I'm unable to mount the sensor on the gauge I bought due to clearance issues around the spark plug.
This: http://www.trailtech.net/digital-gauges/tto/72-et1
I then chopped the ring off and JB welded the probe to the head. This worked for a short period of time, then the epoxy broke off.
I'd really like to monitor CHT since I boosted compression. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Cylinder Head Temperature gauge
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- Roofaloof
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Cylinder Head Temperature gauge
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- jrsjr
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It's a shame that ring rig didn't just work. That would have made it really easy. I suggest you look around for another ring rig that fits. The Kart guys have sources of high-performance parts. A lot of them are running GY6 derived motors so they might have a sensor that fits. Here's a pic of one that looks promising. I found that on a Dutch Kart site. There are bound to be US-based Kart suppiers who can source something like that.
The not-so-easy solutions that I'm aware of all involve welding of the non-JB variety to weld a bung onto the cylinder head so that you can screw a sensor in.
The not-so-easy solutions that I'm aware of all involve welding of the non-JB variety to weld a bung onto the cylinder head so that you can screw a sensor in.
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- BuddyRaton
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Did you remove the crush washer from the plug? You may also need to trim a fin or two to get it to fit. The plug is the best place.
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'06 Cream Buddy 125, 11 Blur 220, 13 BMW C 650 GT, 68 Vespa SS180, 64 Vespa GS MK II, 65 Lambretta TV 175, 67 Vespa GT, 64 Vespa 150 VBB 64 Vespa GL
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I'm running a 10mm trailtech sensor on my buddy 125. I tried it without the crush washer but it leaked a little so I put it back on. It takes a little extra care to get it installed but it works fine. I run the lead right through the spark plug hole. The boot will snap around it just fine. I will say that all the gy6 tuning info I could find didn't correlate to my bike. On total ruckus this consensus was tune the bike to run about 375/390f. The hottest I've managed was 345f and at that point power was falling off. I like to stay below 330f for best power. I'm also not sure my gauge is a 100% accurate. It is consistent though. I find the wideband is much easier to tune with.
161cc big bore kit, NCY big valve head Hand ported, NCY transmission kit, jetted and tuned. I can port your cylinder head.
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Before mine broke off, my highest temperature was 220F. It's possible that the epoxy insulated the probe somewhat to lower the readout temperature.
I was running the temp sensor epoxied into the area I machined next to the spark plug hole. The machined area can be seen in the below photo.

I have another issue I have with the 10mm ring sensor. I nicked the top spark plug sealing surface while working on the head. (can be seen in the above photo) I don't believe that I'll be able to seal the combustion chamber with the ring terminal.
Luckily for me, the NGK Iridium plugs use a conical seal. This bypasses the top surface that I damaged. I've been using one of these plugs with no issues.
I'm thinking I'll pull the head and just do a better job of JB welding the sensor in place.
I was running the temp sensor epoxied into the area I machined next to the spark plug hole. The machined area can be seen in the below photo.

I have another issue I have with the 10mm ring sensor. I nicked the top spark plug sealing surface while working on the head. (can be seen in the above photo) I don't believe that I'll be able to seal the combustion chamber with the ring terminal.
Luckily for me, the NGK Iridium plugs use a conical seal. This bypasses the top surface that I damaged. I've been using one of these plugs with no issues.
I'm thinking I'll pull the head and just do a better job of JB welding the sensor in place.
Knows just enough to be dangerous