Modern Buddy

I have never been impressed with the front brake on my buddy.

I bled the brakes after about 500 miles, that did not help at all.

I had the chance to ride a rattler buck-ten for a few weeks, wow what great breaks.

Any body using any after market pads?

Anybody using braided lines?

Or any one else simply unsatisfied like me?

Looking to do a something to give me more stopping power.

the rattler 110 front braided brake line is a direct replacement for the buddy ..... and it feels great

Dats what i was looking to hear.

Have you done the mod urself?

How much? Did you put it on urslef?

Leeroy Jenkins wrote:Dats...urslef?

Somebody spends WAY too much time texting...

--Keys

its rly hrd 2 typ on my blkbrry & scoot @ da same time.

bikebuda wrote:the rattler 110 front braided brake line is a direct replacement for the buddy ..... and it feels great

Myself, I haven't had any problem with the Buddy's brakes (so far). So what does the braided brake line do? Stop you quicker? What would be the reason for this?
You still have a hydraulic controlled disk in the front and a linkage controlled drum in the rear, right? And it seems to me that the rear drum is where most of your problems would occur, no?

Braided lines neither flex as much nor "balloon" as much as rubber lines. Although you probably wouldn't be able to discern any ballooning on the part of the rubber line, the hydraulic system can. As the rubber expands, the fluid then fills up that area rather than the area inside your brake caliper, which in turn allows for a less "positive" grip on the disc itself. It also makes the lever feel mushier. The braiding on a braided line is metal, which obviously resists expansion better than rubber.

The result is more positive action both at the lever and at the disc...where you want positive action...like, RIGHT NOW!!!

--Keys

I requested a price on a rattler buck ten braided line.

I hope it will bolt-up with no mods.

Half my problem is that I am used to a Buell ZTL system.



ZTL stands for Zero Torsional Load and it refers to the way the brake disc is mounted. On most bikes, the disc is on the hub so when it slows the bike there is a huge load transmitted through the wheel spokes to the rim and the tyre.

Buell mount the disc directly on the rim. This does away with the need for big strong spokes to handle that load and so makes the wheel lighter, reducing unsprung weight and making it easier to turn.

A side effect is that the brake produces so much stopping power that only one disc is needed so unsprung weight is reduced even further.

Leeroy Jenkins wrote:Dats what i was looking to hear.

Have you done the mod urself?

How much? Did you put it on urslef?

i put it on myself "about 20 min"

the line was $32 through scooterworks

it gives it such better feel

this will solve your problem (look and drool)

bikebuda,

So give with the deets already - what is that setup!

*drooling*

At least let us know what to order from Scooterworks (rattler braided brake line part number).

-jetboy

Wave rotor!

need some details.

Looks like you still running a rubber line?

I took this pick at scooterworks open house around christmas

"when i was picking up my braided line"

this stuff will be available soon through most dealers

floating rotor kits ,billit adjustable forks , fork braces , the rear adjustable shock you wouldnt believe the new products for 08

more

Some interesting looking stuff. Personally, I have no problem with the Bud's stock brakes, even after comparing to my Duc's brembos. It is a different feel but they're powerful enough for me and they modulate fairly well. I can haul this bike down from speed quickly and smoothly and have no problem anticipating lockup before it happens.

Forks and shocks can be pricey, it'll be interesting to see what these go for. YSS shocks are a known quantity in the moto community and I'm guessing the one shown above is an off the shelf item. Bear in mind that the YSS application for my Duc is around $800, I'd have a tough time justifying $400 for a new scooter shock.

On the other hand, if Genuine marketed a sport version of the Buddy with all of these upgrades standard the bike would cost more than a standard Buddy but nowhere near as much more as buying a regular Bud and modifying it yourself. A Buddy S like the one above, with the suspension properly tuned, would most likely embarrass every other scoot in the 150 class. If the bike cost about the same as an LX-150 (or less) any enthusiast would have to consider it. I know I'd love to take it for a spin.

Keys wrote:Braided lines neither flex as much nor "balloon" as much as rubber lines. Although you probably wouldn't be able to discern any ballooning on the part of the rubber line, the hydraulic system can. As the rubber expands, the fluid then fills up that area rather than the area inside your brake caliper, which in turn allows for a less "positive" grip on the disc itself. It also makes the lever feel mushier. The braiding on a braided line is metal, which obviously resists expansion better than rubber.

The result is more positive action both at the lever and at the disc...where you want positive action...like, RIGHT NOW!!!

--Keys

Thank you...

Not too impressed with the rear drum brakes on my rattler. Here are some pics, time to replace/upgrade or do you guys thing they still have some life left on them? Thanks