Buddy 125 Prima 161 installation

[PNWbuddy]

For anyone who has done this with the motor in the frame can you tell me how you got the plastic shroud off? I have all of the fasteners out but don't see how it can be removed with the frame tubes in the way unless it comes out forward after removing the valve cover. I did disconnect the rear shock and jack the back of the motor up a little so clearance looks optimal otherwise.

My buddy is stripped of all plastic and the wheels are off. If I can't get the shroud off I'll pull the motor but would probably prefer to do the work with the motor in the frame.


EDIT:
I just pulled the motor out and have it on a workbench, the whole job will be easier.

[Stanza]

Should you ever need to get the shroud off in the future, I was able to remove mine by disconnecting the rear shock and swinging the engine so that it cleared that crossmember.

[JettaKnight]

EDIT:
I just pulled the motor out and have it on a workbench, the whole job will be easier.

Yeah, a WHOLE lot easier.

[PNWbuddy]

I had someone help take the motor out of the frame and put it back in, otherwise it would have been difficult. The big bore itself was an easy project and it purrs like a kitten at idle. I have a few other small projects to do before I can take it out on the road and see if it needs re-jetting.

[sc00ter]

I pull the motor on pretty much any bbk on a scooter. Makes it easier to install and gives a good chance to clean everything so you can look for leaks and whatnot afterwards. Believe it or not but a Zuma 125 was the hardest bbk kit to install. My wife helped and that scooter has both of us cussing like sailors! You'll like that bbk on the Buddy!

[JettaKnight]

I had someone help take the motor out of the frame and put it back in, otherwise it would have been difficult. The big bore itself was an easy project and it purrs like a kitten at idle. I have a few other small projects to do before I can take it out on the road and see if it needs re-jetting.

It's been many years, but I don't remember it being hard to drop or put back the engine.

Maybe you forget the tough stuff over time.

[PNWbuddy]

I bought some generic pilot and main jets on Amazon and switched the #38 stock pilot with a #40 and the stock #92 main with a #98 thinking the BBK might need more fuel. After the switch it was running too rich with the fuel mixture screw turned in almost entirely to run well. So I cleaned the old jets and compared them to the new ones using guitar string. The orifice of the stock pilot #38 pilot was slightly smaller than the new #32 and the stock #92 main was the same or only very slightly smaller than the new #90. Next I'll try the new #32 pilot with the new #94 main. Otherwise the generic jets looked identical and fit.

[babblefish]

Deleted my own post while I try and sort out the air mixture screw. I've got conflicting information about whether it controls the air in the mixture or the fuel in the mixture or the amount of air/fuel mixture. In the mean time, this might be of some help:

http://www.chuckuslife.com/adjusting-airfuel-mixture/

I've seen it referred to as an "air mixture" screw, "pilot" screw, and as a "fuel mixture" screw. At any rate, turning it in does reduce the amount of air/fuel mixture the engine gets at idle to 1/4 throttle.

[babblefish]

From the service manual:

CARBURETOR SPECIFICATIONS:
ITEM SPECIFICATION SPECIFICATION
Model M2-125
Carburetor type KEIHIN CVK24
Bore size 24mm
I.D. NO 013
Idle r/min 1700 ± 100
Float height 18.0 ± 0.5 mm
Main jet #102
Jet needle 4HGGN
Needle jet P-O
Pilot jet #35
Pilot screw (PRE-OPENING) 2 1/4 turns