$64 top end kit failed (Buddy 50)

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crcfailed
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$64 top end kit failed (Buddy 50)

Post by crcfailed »

My 2019 Buddy 50 (16.5k miles) has been really slowing down over the past year or two. It will barely hit 35mph anymore and it has become a real safety problem in traffic. There was one isolated event where the bike just inexplicably lost power and slowed down on me while merging onto the highway. I thought it was going to die completely, but it somehow crawled at like 20mph to the light where I turned off at Walmart to do my shopping. When I came back it started up again and got me home like nothing happened. (In retrospect I wonder if the piston had partially seized, but I wasn't thinking about that at the time)

Occasionally when coming back down to idle from throttle, the engine will make a noise that it definitely should not make. I'm not sure how to describe it exactly, it just sounds very rough for a couple cycles and then smooths out to normal. But it's definitely not a noise it has made in the past. This happens usually when the engine is cold. As for when this started, I'm not really sure but I guess it has probably been in the past year so it lines up with the overall loss of giddyup.

I'm clearly not an expert but I checked all the things that were obvious to me. Belt was changed out not many miles ago. Airbox looked OK. I started looking up other maintenance items for high mileage bikes, and the thing that kept coming up was a top end rebuild. It made sense to me, that maybe the piston was just getting tired and it was time to change it out.

I put it off for many months but finally bit the bullet and ordered this $64 kit from Scooter Works: https://www.scooterworks.com/products/j ... embly-40mm and installed it on my day off, which was today.

I had done some research ahead of time, and I am pretty sure I got all the important bits, like getting the rings on in the correct orientation and lining them up with the pins to avoid them snapping. I did have a little oopsie, when I was lubing up the piston I accidentally dropped it about 6-12 inches on the garage floor where I was working. It looked fine, I wasn't sure whether I should be concerned or not, but I kept going because I only get one day off to do this (and my employer didn't even want to give me that) and so I felt a little under the gun. Also I removed the oil reservoir because it seemed like it needed to come off to get access to the head. I had not seen this covered in any of the material I researched but I just handled it in the way that seemed obvious to me. I drained the reservoir into some empty 2stroke containers I had laying around, and then put the oil back in as I was reassembling. Before I plugged the hose onto the stud where it came out of, I made sure oil was dribbling out of it so there hopefully wasn't any large air pocket in the system leading to a lubrication issue.

After full reassembly, I gave it a kick and it started up without much fuss. Now when I say not much fuss, I should also mention the carb bowl was empty, so there actually was a little fuss until it filled again. The reason for it being empty was because I had also been in there to replace a jet which I had previously cracked while doing a cleaning/inspection. The previous jet was left with just a couple threads to hang on, which is why I wanted to replace it. Both the old and the new are #80 jets, which I installed per recommendation by Scooterworks alongside an aftermarket exhaust that I had to install much earlier in the scooter's life due to the OEM one going bad early on.

Anyway, I let it idle for 10 or 15 minutes, then bolted the seat on and took it around the subdivision. I could immediately tell it felt draggy. When I pulled out on the main road I tried to baby the throttle, and let it creep up to speed. At about the 35mph marker, the piston seized. Now, I've never heard or felt what a piston seizure is like before, and no one had to tell me. I knew what had happened. It's an awful sound that made my heart sink. The bike started right back up, but seized again a little way down the road, so at that point I just turned around and putted back home. It seems like I can run it at 20-25mph, but for how long, I don't know.

While I had it running, I noticed it's still sometimes making that rough noise when coming down from idle. So whatever that is coming from, the top end kit did not solve it. Another thing I noticed was that it really did not sound good at higher RPMs. It sounded like metal on metal.

So now I'm left wondering what went wrong. Was it the cheapo $64 kit? Did I royally screw something up? Did I mess up with the oil and somehow cause a lubrication issue? Or is there a bigger problem going on? Should I be looking at the crank or crankcase? Could some other problem have caused my brand new kit to seize?

I don't really know what to do at this point. I don't want to buy a more expensive OEM kit if there is some other problem that is just going to cause it to immediately ruin yet another brand new kit. The answer, i know, is going to be take it to a mechanic, but I've been down that road before. The dealer where I bought it has never been super helpful with these things, but always happy to sell me faulty/wrong parts, etc. They just don't seem to want to deal with scooters. I could take it in for a diagnostic just on the off chance they have something useful to say, but it's a roll of the dice and probably will take them weeks to even get to it since they have real bikes to work on.

Is there any harm in opening the cylinder back up to see what's going on inside, and closing it back up with the same gaskets? What about getting a new gasket kit and putting the original setup back on? Is that an option? Maybe just a new OEM piston (~$22) instead of a whole kit? Any other last ditch thing I can try with the parts I've got, before I give up on it as too expensive for me to diagnose/fix?

I feel like I'm already out of the game with this one. This is my only vehicle, and I bought it back when I had money and a decent job. And now for the past several years I have not even made a living wage, so I have very limited resources to throw at it. The bike's been ridden daily since I first got it, even through sleet and snow. I feel like a part of me has died. At least it was getting me to work reliably before now, and even let me putt around the local college campus for fun. I really wish I had just left well enough alone. :(

I'll post some pics below of what I took out and what went in. I've been told that the cylinder looks good but the piston looks crusty.
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Re: $64 top end kit failed (Buddy 50)

Post by crcfailed »

The new:
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The old:
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sc00ter
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Re: $64 top end kit failed (Buddy 50)

Post by sc00ter »

I've used ebay no name cylinder kits with good results when trying to save money. Some needed a bit of port cleaning from sharp edges but it was rare. One thing I did do to everyone I'd install, a leak down test! Just making sure it's sealed up correctly.

Its hard doing online diagnostics for engine issues. Do you have the old cylinder and piston for pictures? Other things to check:

Replaced belt, what about rebuilding/greasing the torque driver? It might be hanging up holding the transmission in the wrong range.

I'd do a compression check. Note that compression checks can be frustrating with single cylinder 2-strokes. Do 3 complete full checks and average the results.

When was the reduction box oil changed? Did the old oil look okay?

Your issue sounds transmission related to me. Others will chime in and give you other things to check/look at.
jk50
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Re: $64 top end kit failed (Buddy 50)

Post by jk50 »

It's probably not the top end kits fault. BTW, what oil did you run for 16k miles? it looks way cleaner than the piston I pulled from mine after only 1000. looks perfect except for the crown.
did you bleed the oil pump? which involves loosing the little bleeder screw. I ran into an issue on one of my buddy's that seemed like a seize, happened twice. that was before I realized there was a bleeder screw on the injector pump. I didnt think I let any air into the system but, I did remove the oil tank. been fine ever since, never took the top end apart to see if there was any damage.
so, it seems you didnt fix the first issue, and you created a second issue. maybe you should try another carb? Im going to replace the vacuum operated fuel shut off with a manual one from scooter911, less issues, and you won't need to crank crank crank after draining the carb. I suspect mine is actually leaking.
transmission, that's a thought. there really is not to many possibilities. if nothing works out.. I could use another buddy send it to me?
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Re: $64 top end kit failed (Buddy 50)

Post by sc00ter »

Reason I mentioned torque driver is because I had a pre-bug Zuma with low miles but it just rode weird. Pulled the torque driver apart and discovered the guide pin holes were oval, causing the transmission to lag. The issue mostly happened when slowing down. Sounded like a can of bolts grinding and then would bog the motor down. I rebuilt/replaced all the worn parts and it ran great after that. Found out the grandkids used the Zuma in the field behind the barn. Zuma never got ridden over 25mph and was always going thru deep grass or mud. The transmission took most of the abuse until I rescued it.

I usually rebuild/grease the torque driver on my scoots at 5000ish miles. The factory grease will eventually dry up causing the halves to stick.

Side note: A friend was replacing a belt on a bug-eye Zuma recently. He found a broken V-slide and the other 2 were severely worn. He was going to ride this Zuma with one V-slide MISSING! He got lucky that I happened to have a extra set of new V-slides floating around from my 2-stroke tuning days. But he was complaining about loss of power and weird noises as well before pulling it apart.
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Re: $64 top end kit failed (Buddy 50)

Post by crcfailed »

sc00ter wrote: Wed Jun 04, 2025 5:34 pm I've used ebay no name cylinder kits with good results when trying to save money. Some needed a bit of port cleaning from sharp edges but it was rare. One thing I did do to everyone I'd install, a leak down test! Just making sure it's sealed up correctly.

Its hard doing online diagnostics for engine issues. Do you have the old cylinder and piston for pictures? Other things to check:

Replaced belt, what about rebuilding/greasing the torque driver? It might be hanging up holding the transmission in the wrong range.

I'd do a compression check. Note that compression checks can be frustrating with single cylinder 2-strokes. Do 3 complete full checks and average the results.

When was the reduction box oil changed? Did the old oil look okay?

Your issue sounds transmission related to me. Others will chime in and give you other things to check/look at.
Old cylinder & piston pics are above, I can see about taking better ones if curious though. I didn't do anything with the transmission, and I have never looked at any of that on the bike other than the belt. But I will have to look it up and see about this torque driver thing.

The gear oil hasn't been changed since maybe last year sometime. Again, that's another thing I've never personally looked at myself, I believe I had the dealer do it when I had it in for a tire last year. Incidentally I also bought a kit from Scooterworks for doing the oil change, but didn't have time to do it yesterday and wanted to test the new top end first. Didn't expect it to be an immediate issue, I mainly just wanted to verify the top end was in working order.
jk50 wrote: Wed Jun 04, 2025 6:12 pm It's probably not the top end kits fault. BTW, what oil did you run for 16k miles? it looks way cleaner than the piston I pulled from mine after only 1000. looks perfect except for the crown.
did you bleed the oil pump? which involves loosing the little bleeder screw. I ran into an issue on one of my buddy's that seemed like a seize, happened twice. that was before I realized there was a bleeder screw on the injector pump. I didnt think I let any air into the system but, I did remove the oil tank. been fine ever since, never took the top end apart to see if there was any damage.
I didn't notice a bleeder screw, maybe I should take another look at that, thanks! I ran Genuine when I could get it, Lucas if I couldn't. Lately it's been Genuine because the Walmart here stopped carrying Lucas. There were a few times I used some slop from Ace Hardware in a pinch.
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Re: $64 top end kit failed (Buddy 50)

Post by jk50 »

Does it rev up fine on the center stand? The whole seizing thing does sound exactly like what happened to me though. I may have had some air in the oil line, cold temps were also a thought it was 40 degrees f at the time on a 0 mile motor. That scooter has over 400 miles on it now with no issues.
It is thought to be a good idea to mix 100 to 1 premix for the first few tanks.
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Re: $64 top end kit failed (Buddy 50)

Post by jk50 »

16,000 miles though… that’s re assuring. That genuine oil really keeps things clean. See further down on what mine looked like at 1000 miles on all Lucas. It ran fine but, it definitely was dirtier.
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Re: $64 top end kit failed (Buddy 50)

Post by crcfailed »

About to head off to work. I did find that bleeder screw on the oil pump this morning, backed it all the way out, and oil immediately started seeping from it so I put it back on. So, still unsure as to whether there was a problem with that. The gas tank is about 1/4 full. I dumped about 3 caps full of 2stroke directly into the tank and shook the bike a little. Not very scientific, I know, but hopefully that is enough. If I have time tonight or tomorrow I will try revving on the center stand and see what it does.

I don't own a compression tester, but seeing as I am working on this part of the bike now I guess I probably should. That will have to be a trip to auto zone sometime later. Over the years, seems that the only thing I haven't invested in tool-wise, is someplace to put them all :lol: But there is always something new I need to buy. One of these days I'm going to have to get one of those rolling mechanic's toolcarts, that would be cool to have around the garage.
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Re: $64 top end kit failed (Buddy 50)

Post by crcfailed »

Trying to assess some of the metal-on-metal racket on the bike, but I cannot quite tell where it's coming from. I want to get the CVT cover off and have a peek, but I have been hung up on a rounded bolt since yesterday afternoon. It's one of those little hand-tight M8's on the CVT cover. Tried WD40, but it won't budge. It's recessed against the CVT casing so it's impossible to get a pair of vise grips, or even a regular wrench on it. There doesn't seem to be any possibility to get a hacksaw or anything on it other than a socket.

So I went to Ace Hardware on my break (which I was not even supposed to take...) and picked up a bolt extractor. After work I tried it out but could not get it to even put a scratch on the bolt head! How in the hell did I manage to round the nut with hand tools, but somehow can't get a bolt extractor to bite?? After work Ace was closed, so I went to Walmart to see if they had anything different. They did not. So I came back home and spent the little remaining daylight drilling on it again with the bolt extractor, when---I kid you not---I was attacked by a giant dragonfly in my own garage. At that point the extractor must have fallen out of my drill or I otherwise lost track of it somehow, because after fighting off this hellspawn dragonfly, I picked up my drill and the bit was no longer in it. I then spent the next 2 hours picking up the garage and looking for the bit, but it never turned up.

I only have one more day off, and it is tomorrow. I need to smoehow not spend all damn day on this stupid bolt. At this point I'm seriously considering just putting my breaker bar on it and twisting the head off, or ripping the threads out, whichever happens. I don't know what else to do with this thing. :?: :?: :?:

I should add that I haven't taken a dremel to it only because it happens to be right under the gas tank, carb, fuel lines, etc. and I have just enough common sense to think it would be a bad idea.

Edit: just found the bolt extractor... it fell out of a pile of clothes in the utility room when I went to put them in the wash. None of them were the clothes I was wearing several hours ago. How?????? I swear I'm losing it :cry:
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Re: $64 top end kit failed (Buddy 50)

Post by crcfailed »

Finally got the bastard off, just took some more drilling.

I was right to look in the CVT case... because I am now pretty confident that the rough noise I was hearing when dropping down to idle is actually belt clatter! Furthermore I think some of the metallic sounds I am hearing at high speeds may be coming from the CVT case somewhere too, possibly the clutch area, because I can hear whispers of the same type of sound at idle with the cover off. I'm still slightly skeptical only because if I've truly got some kind of problem in here causing the metallic rubbing sounds, I'm not sure why it decided to manifest at the exact moment I changed my top end.

Both the crankshaft and the clutch shaft (sorry not sure if that's what it's called) both spin perfectly straight, but I noticed the faces on the clutch where the belt rides have a little bit of wobble. Not sure if that's normal. I've never had the clutch off but I have taken the variator off to change rollers. They were fine as of my last belt change, but I'll check them again today as it looks like I'll be taking apart that side of the bike to see what I find.

One more thing... I have not been able to get the bike to "seize" again after putting 2stroke in the gas tank. It's still very slow, and doesn't want to go over about 38mph---a downgrade from the original status quo. So I'm still wondering if I actually seized it on that initial run, or did any damage. For the time being, it seems stable, so I don't necessarily want to crack it open for forensics right now. However, I'm going to assume at this point, my old parts still have some life left in them, which makes me feel a little bit better if I did in fact ruin this $64 kit. I'm going to try and clean up that piston with some carb cleaner, and I'm going to order a new gasket set to store aside with these old parts in case that needs to happen at some point.
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