Modern Buddy

It's official. Even though he is currently scooterless my husband likes our forum and wondered if we might hold the answer for his MC project. I know that some of you are multi-scooter owners, and some of you have old scoots so I am wondering what you are doing to clean the rust from your fuel tanks?

He has looked through the MC boards, and we recently bought some Kreem cleaning/lining system, but he is cautiously considering what to do. On one of his MC boards someone recently posted that they use toilet boil cleaner.
Yep, you heard me right. Toilet Bowl Cleaner. . . so my hubby asked if I could ask you guys 1) What you are using on scoots?, 2) What do you think of the Kreem?, and 3) What in the world do you think of the toilet bowl cleaner?

As an aside, I swear that when we bought the bike last year the guy said something about using some kind of battery driven electrical rigged-up thing he made. From what I recall I think of a visual of some kind of metal tube or prong he put into the gas tank, and it was attached to a battery or electrical current or something, and that somehow did something to the rust. . .anyone know anything about that kind of thing?

Okay, off to contemplate oil changes and a little spa treatment for Buddina!

My husband is restoring an old Honda MC right now. His tank is all rusty, too. His mechanic told him to go to the hardware store and buy some nails, throw them in the tank, and let it spin on the rotisserie. How do you put it on the rotisserie? I'm not quite sure. The nails grind away the rust and supposedly the coating on the nails actually helps to coat the inside of the tank. Supposedly. I've also heard you can use nuts, bolts, rocks/stones, jacks and marbles, and the like. Anyway, sticking it on a rotisserie sure beats shaking the tank around for hours and hours... and hours.

yep, dump some sort of aggregate (sp?) into the tank, swish around all over to knock down any scale, then prep & seal with your favorite tank treatment.

Personally, I like the POR-15 kit over Kreem, but lots of folks like the Kreem one just fine.

No matter what brand you use... it is VITAL to follow the prep & procedure to the letter!

Any ideas on how to swish the aggregate all around besides the rotisserie method? The only rotisserie have is an electric Showtime rotisserie, and aside from the tank being a wee bit too large I am not sure that would be a good idea. . .(kind of like the tank in the dryer idea!) I am assuming badapple's rotisserie is an outdoor kind that works somehow, but we don't have one of those.

POR-15!

http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=FTRK&dept=11

Gods gift to gas tanks, seriously. Everything else sucks.

That's enough for a car, I think, they used to have a much cheaper motorcycle tank kit, maybe you can find it. If not, chip in with some friends and do a bunch at once.

I've done a Vespa tank and an old honda tank, it's still a LOT of work shaking that stuff around, but it fixes pinholes, cleans out the rust, stabilizes the metal and puts a beautiful rustproof coating inside. It's AWESOME.

Bb.

Or you could do what my HD neighbor did while restoring her bike and just buy a new(er) tank. She found one already painted in her colors with the original production sticker still on the bottom for $60. She really didn't want to go through the shaking part.

I've also heard of some kind of glue product. I wonder if it's that stuff you're talking about?

runtotorun121 wrote:Any ideas on how to swish the aggregate all around besides the rotisserie method?

with your arms!

Do NOT use Kreem!

I have all my old rusty tanks boiled out at a local radiator shop. It will take the paint off as well.

Mike @ NoHo Scooters wrote:Do NOT use Kreem!

Hi, Mike,

Can you tell us why you vehemently recommend not using Kreem?

I think we have come to the conclusion to return the Kreem and get some POR-15, which he had considered at first, but when we went to the MC shop they only had the Kreem. Since you said "Do NOT" rather emphatically we are just curious now what problems it may have caused?



Thanks to everyone for all your thoughts and recommendations!!!

Kreem will start to flake after a few years and can clog up the fuel system. At this point you cannot re-Kreem it or have it boiled out, making the tank a throw away. If the bike is rare, good luck finding another. Spend the extra time and money to have it boiled out at a radiator shop.

Mike @ NoHo Scooters wrote:Kreem will start to flake after a few years and can clog up the fuel system. At this point you cannot re-Kreem it or have it boiled out, making the tank a throw away. If the bike is rare, good luck finding another. Spend the extra time and money to have it boiled out at a radiator shop.

My goodness. That does not sound good. Any thoughts on the POR-15? Does it do the same thing?

runtotorun121 wrote:

Mike @ NoHo Scooters wrote:Kreem will start to flake after a few years and can clog up the fuel system. At this point you cannot re-Kreem it or have it boiled out, making the tank a throw away. If the bike is rare, good luck finding another. Spend the extra time and money to have it boiled out at a radiator shop.

My goodness. That does not sound good. Any thoughts on the POR-15? Does it do the same thing?

No, Kreem basically just covers up the rust and eventually starts to flake.

POR-15's system is a series of steps, first you loosen the rust, then you wash it out, then you stabilize the metal so it doesn't rust anymore, then you coat it all with some sort of space-age-polymer metalflake paint. It's a lot of work, but it works really really well and leaves it totally rustproof if you do it right. The radiator repair path is less work for you, and usually not too expensive. But I've used POR15 for a few bikes and it's just great.

Bb.

illnoise wrote: No, Kreem basically just covers up the rust and eventually starts to flake.

POR-15's system is a series of steps, first you loosen the rust, then you wash it out, then you stabilize the metal so it doesn't rust anymore, then you coat it all with some sort of space-age-polymer metalflake paint. It's a lot of work, but it works really really well and leaves it totally rustproof if you do it right. The radiator repair path is less work for you, and usually not too expensive. But I've used POR15 for a few bikes and it's just great.

Bb.

And do it outside....
with fans blowing...

and a respirator!

The POR-15 proccess fumes are like something from the X-Files!