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Headlight Issue
Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 10:48 pm
by Rev_83
Yesterday I was prepping for what was suppose to be a longer than normal ride today. I removed both covers on my engine to check for any possible air leaks. I found none. I then made sure that everything was torqued to spec and put everything back together. I rode to church (6 miles) where my scoot was sitting until after dark. When I fired it up I did not have any headlight. The running lamp is fine. I checked the bulb and it looked fine. I replaced it with a new one just in case.I stepped through my work from earlier in the day and found that I forgot to replace the ground that bolts to the block behind the flywheel cover. I replaced it but it did not fix the problem. The bike runs fine and starts quickly. The battery seems to be fine. I skimmed this forum and looked into most of the headlight issues presented here. All of my wires in my head set are fine. Any insight as to what the problem may be or where I should turn to?
*UPDATE*
Posted: Tue Jan 29, 2013 11:48 pm
by Rev_83
I checked all fuses. They are good
Posted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 2:47 am
by Robbie
All fuses, meaning the 8 amp by the battery and the 2.5 amp under the horncast were OK.
Good to know but the headlamp isn't fused.....it is powered by the spinning flywheel...thats why it only works with the engine running.
Anyways, you should be checking if current is getting to the dimmer switch using a test light, and then, determine if the current is making it to the bulb.....and then, check the ground side of the bulb.....if the test light lights on the ground side then the ground lead from the bulb is interrupted somewhere...usually a bullit connecter isn't fully seated.....should be a black wire....all this, with the engine running.
Bout all I can offer at this end.
Rob
P.S.
I'm curious......what air leaks are you looking for?
Posted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 9:37 pm
by Rev_83
Correct on the fuses.
I had been experiencing a problem with the scoot revving hard and not returning to idle after riding at a higher RMP when I would engage the clutch. I figured it was wither an issue in my carb or a small air leak. It turned out to be a sticky slide. I pulled, cleaned and rebuilt the carb and now all is well.
Last night a friend and I went through the wiring from the bulb all the way to the voltage regulator. It appears as though the issue is in the regulator.
If the stator were no good the scoot would not run...correct?
I am also not sure about the CDI unit and its role in all of this either.
Being a relative noob I am still trying to learn as I go. Any any advice is appreciated.
Posted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 10:10 pm
by Robbie
The CDI means, capacitive discharge ignition.
The cdi unit, sometimes called the black box is the logic of the system....it takes electrical information from the pick up coil (mounted on the stator plate) to tell the coil when to fire the plug.
All that to say the cdi has nothing to do with lighting.....so give it no thought.
But, yes, the charging coil and pick up coil are attached to the stator plate.
There is a grey wire going from the regulator......it feeds the instrument backlighting and terminates at the high low beam switch.
If the backlighting in the speedo also is not working, then that wire (grey) needs to be followed back to the regulator.......this is not a solid run.....there will be two bullit type connectors that to me (I'm looking at the wiring diagram) appear to both be under the horncast......or at least one is.
One will be for the PRD (preventative restarting device)......the other connector, if not under the horncast, will be jammed within the confines of the handlebar upper/lower.
Looks like the harness unplugs off the regulator......pull it and be certain none of the 4 wires are backed into the plastic holder, keeping it from fully connecting.
While the horncast is off, carefully check the four wires at the ignition switch itself.....specifically the violet one......this one will keep the regulator from getting current.
Rob
PS.....if the instrument lights do light, then start looking more carefully at the wires at the dimmer......look for poor terminal installations where the eyelet is crimped, but over the insulation with only one strand carrying current.
Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 4:29 pm
by Rev_83
Where is this dimmer? Are you referring to the hi/low switch? I do have panel back lights.
Posted: Fri Feb 01, 2013 9:23 pm
by Rev_83
Problem solved!! Coincidence is a cruel hearted B. The problem wasnt due to the lack of ground. It was a busted wire in my headset. All is fixed and good! Thank you for your insight.