Pulling Rear Hub today

saturnphive · Post by **saturnphive** » Thu Nov 14, 2013 5:28 pm

So I have some rear wheel wobble. The piece that spins has a couple milimeters of play at the axle/hub so I'm gonna pull it off tonight and see about tightening that bolt. I've been doing research online because I could not see how to get it off from just staring at it and drinking a beer. Which is surprising since that usually solves whatever problem I'm addressing.

So I now gather that I
1: Take off the cowl wheel etc..
2: Remove hub cap
3: Remove cotter pin -

When I remove the cotter pin, I should be able to just take off that little brass bit with the upwards facing teeth, yes? The Nut should be concealed behind this little betoothed brass cap, right? Assuming that's correct.

4: Tighten the crap out of the nut, or remove completely, add locktite, tighten crap out of nut. I've heard its 60-120 lbs of torque so thats basically about as hard as one can twist without using your legs, right?
5: Replace brass fake castle nut and cotter pin.
6: reattach wheel, bling, etc.

Have I got that right? What's the big ass screw on the edge of the rear hub?

jimmbomb · Post by **jimmbomb** » Thu Nov 14, 2013 6:25 pm

Your proposed procedure sounds sound.
The big ass screw....when you remove it....with a flashlight, you can see the condition of your brake shoe.
Good luck

saturnphive · Post by **saturnphive** » Fri Nov 15, 2013 5:31 pm

That's all done! When I removed the "castle nut" I found the big 15/16" nut underneath to be still attached but finger loose! I just took it out with my fingers, yipes!

Question: there was no washer underneath that I could tell, should there have been?

I found some lock washers but they were too small to fit around the shaft. So I just put some blue locktite on and tightened it down about as hard as I could without really putting my back into it. Think that will do?

I rode it into work this morning and it felt better, but now I think i'm feeling ghost shimmies.

Anyway just wondering if anyone knows whether there's supposed to be a washer in there. Also, where I can find a cotter pin for it.

az_slynch · Post by **az_slynch** » Mon Nov 18, 2013 4:41 pm

There should be a thick washer behind the rear axle nut. Check your local dealer for one.

The cotter pin can be gotten at any auto parts store or hardware store. I'd recommend the latter, as you could buy one or two versus a package of twenty.

Please don't ride it with the cotter pin missing!

saturnphive · Post by **saturnphive** » Mon Nov 18, 2013 5:53 pm

Maybe I just didn't put enough effort into digging out the washer, if it fits very tightly into the hole I probably just couldn't get ahold of an edge. And it was dark and the discover of the totally loose nut was success enough at the time.

I went to Ace to get cotter pins and bought several sizes (because the "model" one was on the bike) and took her home to do the repair.

Is there an advantage of using brass/zinc/stainless. I bought stainless without even thinking about it. Now I'm wondering if that was the strongest as the original was probably brass. Let me know guys.

Back to taking it to work today. 26 degrees and windy this morning, but I'm already getting used to it. Beautiful day for a ride.

Anyone else in Minnesota still riding?

az_slynch · Post by **az_slynch** » Mon Nov 18, 2013 7:40 pm

Stainless should be fine for this application. The key is not to re-use one, as the metal gets fatigued from bending and unbending them. It'd be preferable to run one that's only been bent once in lieu of one that's been bent thrice installed, uninstalled, reinstalled). Glad you put the old one in for the interim; while a new one beats a used one, a used one beats nothing!