Modern Buddy

Greetings. I have a used Stella 150cc Atomic Fireball and is has 500 miles on it.

Questions:

What is the best 2 cycle oil to use?

How do you feel about fuel additives?

What about the oil filter screen under the seat, the Dealer said pull it as Vespa’s don’t have them?

What do you run in the front and rear tires for pressure?

Is it best to just turn off the key and not use the kill switch?

Instead of downshifting I shift into neutral and coast to the stop sign or if it is just a standard turn

decide at that point to go into 2nd or 3rd, is this kosher?

Also, is it best to run 91 RON – my buddy who owns a Harley said always us high octane fuel?

I seem to only approach speeds of 50 MPH for now, will this change as she is broke in?

I heard it is best to change the gearbox oil every quarter with 30 SAE non-detergent – non-synthetic?

Also, would it screw up my jets if I changed the air filter to a std Vespa PX to get better speed?

Is it normal for the Stella to only start on the 3rd try?

The Dealer said always kick start it, I tried to use the electric start, but after 6 tries I kicked it, I think perhaps the battery is compromised, what do ya thing? Do you all kick or use the start button?

Finally how do I get out of talking to everyone about it where I go? Lol

TIA,

Frosty

I use Motul for 2T oil.

I've had no need for fuel additives.

That's an air filter screen under the seat. Some have removed it. Others have left it. It doesn't seem incredibly restrictive so I doubt you'd see an appreciable performance boost by removing it.

I run 20 or 21 front and 27 rear.

I doubt anyone can see that it's 'best' to use the key or kill switch. I find it convenient to use the kill switch.

I down shift as i'm coming to a stop but i don't release the clutch as i do so. that way i'm in the appropriate gear for the speed the bike is at but i'm not engine braking. It also makes it easier to get it into first gear for when i'm ready to take off again.

I use regular unleaded, but i'm sure others will debate the merits of higher octane fuel.

I follow the recommended service intervals for the gear oil. As long as it's the correct spec from Genuine, I doubt it matters if it's synthetic or not.

If you deblue the air filter you will have to rejet.

Every bike seems to have its own quirks. You don't have many miles on this scooter so it starting on the third try could be symptomatic of it not being ridden much. It may get better with time.

50 MPH seems about right for a stock Stella.

I can't imagine why a dealer would say to always kick start it. If it isn't starting with the electric start there may be something wrong with the starting circuitry. If it's the original battery, it may be time for a new one. I use both the kick and electric starts with no problem with either.

It's hard not to talk about, isn't it?

Thanks Shane - good info! Stella is sure exciting.

It certainly is fun and great way to start your day and finish it, takes off the edge and the possibly of being killed twice a day really kicks up your adrenaline!
Sure is exciting.

I did a perfect routine today at noon. I turned on the fuel cock, turned over the key, tried electric start twice, no go. I kicked it twice, started on 2nd time. I have this new idea, drive off with choke on and gently push it in with the heel of my boot as I move off.

I keep killing it in first being paranoid of a over revving it up.

Sure is fun & exciting.

Did I say it was exciting?

I wouldn't ride with the choke out.

Just start it with it out and you should be able to immediately push it in.

It's always good to give her a couple of minutes to warm up before cruising off.

Nice scoot Frosty. Those Fireballs rule!

Here are my answers to your questions, remember that it's opinion to some degree so make informed decisions before taking our advice.

Oil - Motul 710 or 800 are highly recommended my many Stella owners.

Fuel additives. No need, waste of your time and money.

The air filter under the seat keeps bugs and such from getting into your airbox. Many people like to remove it but there's no need. The amount of air it might "restrict" is minimal at best. Debluing would give you way more of a benefit.

Tire pressure - use the recommended pressure on the tires. Never over inflate.

Kill switch vs key - something of a debate. IMHO, a kill switch is just that, a kill switch when your key will not turn the motor off. So use the key preferably.

Downshift to stop - you should never downshift and let out the clutch as you slow down, the lack of gas (aka no throttle) means lack of oil which means no lube = bad news. When coming to a stop, you can put it into neutral or pull in the clutch. keep the clutch in as you slow down and carefully downshift as you get near stop to reach first easily.

2nd and 3rd - this will depend on your getting and gearing. But typically, 1st will get you to around 10mph, 2nd to 20mph, third to near 35mph. If going slow enough, like a car, you can skip first and use 2nd if you wish.

Fuel octane - the Stella is designed to run on 87. No need for higher and some will say it's bad for it.

Top speed - this will depend in your jetting, wind behind/in front of you, hills, etc. My stock Stella got me to around 55 with wind behind me, but struggled to even get to 50 with wind hitting me on the side/front. Once you upjet, deblue/sito+ or similar, your top speed will improve. Mine will do just over 60 now with deblue/sito+ and a new mixer and main jet.

gear box oil - around every 500 miles is a safe time to do the change. When doing so, make sure it does not have the smell of gas in it. And always use SAE30 Non-Detergent. I dont think synth oil would hurt but some say the synth leaves a film on stuff.

If you change the airfilter (aka same as debluing) you will want to at the very least change your main jet to something richer. Try going up 2-3 points for starters. You will also need to adjust your mix screw at this point possibly as well. But if you do this, please make sure you have read up on the process, it sucks to get it changed and screwed up and not know how to fix it. I know this from experience.

Starting on third try - when warmed up my kicks over right off. If it's cold (in the summer), choke out, it takes me a few kicks to get it running. It's normal, but problems or longer start tries usually means something is up that needs attention. It's recommended that you always start it cold from the kick, and only use the electric start after she's warmed up.

Getting out of talking about it - good question. Let me know if you have an answer. I want the cute women to talk to me about it, and don't mind answering questions. but when you get asked 5 questions by 2 people at every fuel up, it can get annoying just a little. Maybe the solution is to print up little cards with all the "FAQ" and hand them to people and then scoot off.

Shane Wilson wrote:I wouldn't ride with the choke out.

Just start it with it out and you should be able to immediately push it in.

It's always good to give her a couple of minutes to warm up before cruising off.

What Shane said. If it's not running OK after it starts and you push in the choke, you have a mix setting problem most likely.

AMS - wow thanks a million. That is one rad avatar mate!

All good stuff to know about Stella.

Do ya'll suggest a really good soundproof - decent airflow helmet?

I'd like to listen to my MP3 player but the wind is prohibiting this now with my current $20.00 bicycle helmet. (yeah, yeah keep laughing, it works for now)

Also, do windshields make a huge difference and worth the hassle?

I only have a 20 mile drive to work one way.

p.s. Interesting on the gearbox oil changes, as the Dealer said about every 2,000 miles, but I will listen to AMS.

What is the best 2 cycle oil to use?

I use the dennis miller shampoo theory and change brands every time to keep it on its toes. People argue about oil until the sun goes down, but anything reasonably decent should work fine. You might not wanna mix dino and synthetic.

How do you feel about fuel additives?

Other than Stabil over the winter, I don't.

What about the oil filter screen under the seat, the Dealer said pull it as Vespa’s don’t have them?

Whatever it is, it's not hurting anything.

What do you run in the front and rear tires for pressure?

Whatever it says on the tire information decal that's required by law. Don't go by the sidewall or the manual.

Is it best to just turn off the key and not use the kill switch?

It's best to get in the habit of using the killswitch so you can do it second-nature in an emergency, otherwise, it doesn't make much difference.

Instead of downshifting I shift into neutral and coast to the stop sign or if it is just a standard turn (then) decide at that point to go into 2nd or 3rd, is this kosher?

Sure, but downshifting helps to slow you down faster and is useful sometimes, learn how and when to do it.

Also, is it best to run 91 RON – my buddy who owns a Harley said always us high octane fuel?

Your buddy owns a Harley, what does he know about a Stella? Use standard gas. Why waste money?

I seem to only approach speeds of 50 MPH for now, will this change as she is broke in?

Should be doing indicated 55-60, which is more like 50 in reality. If the speedo is saying 50, something might be wrong. Or the speedo might actually be accurate for once.

I heard it is best to change the gearbox oil every quarter with 30 SAE non-detergent – non-synthetic?

Non-detergent, yes. Not sure about synth, but you don't want to mix synth and dino. Whatever the manual says is right-on, that's what engineers are for, don't try to outsmart them

Manual:
http://www.justgottascoot.com/StellaOwnersManual.pdf

Also, would it screw up my jets if I changed the air filter to a std Vespa PX to get better speed?

Stop listening to your Harley friend. Now.

Is it normal for the Stella to only start on the 3rd try?

Are you using the choke? If it's warmed up it should start first kick with the choke in, otherwise, be sure to pull the choke out and it still sometimes takes a few kicks.

The Dealer said always kick start it, I tried to use the electric start, but after 6 tries I kicked it, I think perhaps the battery is compromised, what do ya thing? Do you all kick or use the start button?

The starter drains the battery fast. If the engine's warm (recently ridden), it should work fine, but if it doesn't work in a press or two, give up and kick.

You didn't ruin your battery, you just drained it. Get a battery tender and always keep it plugged in overnight. Riding will also recharge your battery, but it takes a long trip.

Bb.

Thanks - it's one of my patches, showin my DBSC pride

Helmetwise... that's a good question and well, it has a million answers. What is your budget? How much do you value your head?

There are lots of helmets out there. My rule of thumb is, cheap = bad. Spend $150 or more and get a good helmet. Avoid gimmicks and overpriced brand names and go with one that's solid, trustworthy and offers max protection.

Soundwise, anything open face is obviously going to make some noise, as will the ones that let you lift the whole front face up. My fulmer has the lift up front and the noise is pretty loud from wind in it. It breathes ok, but not as much as I'd like in the heat.

The key is to get one with the least about of stuff on the outside that wind will pass over and make noise.

I think there's a good helmet thread here somewhere with lots of great recommendations... I need to dig for it.

Here ya go:
viewtopic.php?p=85520#85520

Gearbox oil - maybe I should clarify... first change should be around 500... then after that, it depends on your environment, how much you ride, what kind of work you put it thru.

I personally think a change every 500-750 miles, esp in summer is a good thing. It's what, $3 in oil, to keep your gearbox in top shape. But it's up to you. Some will say every 1000 miles, some every 1200, some every 1500, etc. Better safe than sorry. And do make a point to replace both crush washers at the same time, and take care not to strip the threads on the bolts.

A 20 mile commute is nice. Mine's about 10 miles each way and I wish it was more, by the time I get to work, I am just starting to enjoy the ride. lol.

IllNoise thanks for all the help/input!

AMS - Really gearbox change is no hassle for me, heck we get out of crankcase changes right. lol


Last question, when filling 2 cycle do I fill it to the top of the fill neck, each Dealer has their own take on it and the manual is scant on info?

2T filling is one of those preference things. I say it shouldn't hurt to fill it up into the neck... not too high to avoid sloshing and possible spill/leaking when riding.

But, I usually just fill mine so it's just getting into the neck. The tank is pretty big, and the oil sight is about half way up the tank so even if it says it needs oil there is still lots there.

Thanks AMS

All I could find so far local is:

Quicksilver 2-cycle outboard oil and it was told to me this is the best.

Is that kosher to use, I already mixed it with the very hig priced I bought Motul from the Dealer.

The Quicksilver was $4.00 bucks a qt the Motul was $12.00

Is this stuff okay then?

I just got done doing some after work twisties/corners with Stella, what a blast and after work stress release. Just melts the day away like butter in the microwave, I feel so relaxed now. I heart Stella!!!!!!!!!!!

Oh I forgot, how do you guys feel about windshields?

Currently I am just eating bugs on my commute.

Are the full size shields better or a lil mini?

Also, going with a full face shield helmet and noise canceling.

Also reading here and other forums you guys talking about shifter cables and replacement - how often will I need to do it and will it just break or stop shifting correctly?

Sorry for all the pesky questions?

And yeah this is a cool Stella section.

Frosty wrote:Thanks AMS

All I could find so far local is:

Quicksilver 2-cycle outboard oil and it was told to me this is the best.

I realize this thread is a year old, but I WOULD NOT DO THIS.

Outboard oil is formulated to run at different engine temps than 2t motorcycle injection oil.

Outboards are open loop water cooled, taking in nice cool lakewater and spitting it directly back into the lake. In other words, it has a very effective radiator because the entire lake acts as a heat sink. As a result, outboard engines run at a pretty cool and stable temperature, even when working very hard. Outboards also tend to run at consistent rpms for long periods of time.

Your engine, on the other hand, is air cooled, which is much less efficient a heat transfer mechanism than water. As a result, the operating temp of your engine will vary, along with the operating rpms, load, etc.

As a result of the differences, 2t outboard oil (typically API or TC-W3 spec) is formulated differently than 2t motorcycle oil.

Do I think you would notice a difference running one 2t over the other? No, they should run and burn off just fine. However, I would use the oil designed for your type of engine. Scooters really don't use that much oil- it won't break the bank!

This is coming from a guy that has a shelf full of TC-W3 oil for his jet skis on the shelf...