Blur battery gets weak. What to do?
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Blur battery gets weak. What to do?
Hi everyone. I picked up an '07 Blur w/320 BDU's about 2 weeks ago. Loving this thing.
Having a problem, and I'm not sure what I should check. The battery keeps getting weaker. It will start up, and everythin will be fine. I'll take it out, and over time (riding), the dash lights will get dimmer. When I first start, if have the turn signal on, I can see the tach needle move up and down very slightly with each click of the turn signal. After riding it for some time, when I use the turn signal, the tach needle dips more (rpm doesn't change). If I squeeze the brake with the turn signal on, the tach needle moves quite a bit, sometimes down to 0rpm then back up; again, with each click of the turn signals. It gets to the point that if I squeeze the brakes, the tach needle goes ALL the way down to 0rpm. Lights get dimmer as well
I checked the battery, and it looks as if it has been replaced already, because it's taller than the battery cover. To get the battery to recharge, I use the battery tender thing. I replaced that battery with another new one, and it seems better, but still does it. Using the battery tender on this one as well. I ride this thing to work, just about everyday, about 2 miles each way, with some stop and go traffic, especially leaving work. The new battery seems to last longer before it drains, but that could just be because of a newer/higher capacity battery.
I read a few of the battery problem posts on here, and some say to disconnect the pet carrier light, which I did (pulled the bulb, then found that when I connect/disconnect the battery, a relay clicks, so I disconnected that relay as well. Put the bulb back in and the light doesn't come on, so I'm assuming that relay is the one for the pet carrier light).
Does this sound liek I have a bad stator/magneto thing? Any tests I can run to see if that's definitely the problem before replacing it?
My other scooter is a swapped Honda Ruckus, w/gy6 150cc motor. When I did that swap, I was told to change out the original 6 pole stator with an 11 pole stator, along with the correct CDI, as the 11 pole charges better than the 6 pole. Is this something I would/could do on the Blur as well?
Again, this is on an '07 Blur, 320 BDU's, all stock electronics.
Thanks in advance to anyone that answers this post!
Having a problem, and I'm not sure what I should check. The battery keeps getting weaker. It will start up, and everythin will be fine. I'll take it out, and over time (riding), the dash lights will get dimmer. When I first start, if have the turn signal on, I can see the tach needle move up and down very slightly with each click of the turn signal. After riding it for some time, when I use the turn signal, the tach needle dips more (rpm doesn't change). If I squeeze the brake with the turn signal on, the tach needle moves quite a bit, sometimes down to 0rpm then back up; again, with each click of the turn signals. It gets to the point that if I squeeze the brakes, the tach needle goes ALL the way down to 0rpm. Lights get dimmer as well
I checked the battery, and it looks as if it has been replaced already, because it's taller than the battery cover. To get the battery to recharge, I use the battery tender thing. I replaced that battery with another new one, and it seems better, but still does it. Using the battery tender on this one as well. I ride this thing to work, just about everyday, about 2 miles each way, with some stop and go traffic, especially leaving work. The new battery seems to last longer before it drains, but that could just be because of a newer/higher capacity battery.
I read a few of the battery problem posts on here, and some say to disconnect the pet carrier light, which I did (pulled the bulb, then found that when I connect/disconnect the battery, a relay clicks, so I disconnected that relay as well. Put the bulb back in and the light doesn't come on, so I'm assuming that relay is the one for the pet carrier light).
Does this sound liek I have a bad stator/magneto thing? Any tests I can run to see if that's definitely the problem before replacing it?
My other scooter is a swapped Honda Ruckus, w/gy6 150cc motor. When I did that swap, I was told to change out the original 6 pole stator with an 11 pole stator, along with the correct CDI, as the 11 pole charges better than the 6 pole. Is this something I would/could do on the Blur as well?
Again, this is on an '07 Blur, 320 BDU's, all stock electronics.
Thanks in advance to anyone that answers this post!
- Lostmycage
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Theoretically, you should be able to swap in an 11 pole stator, but I've not heard of anyone doing this. I had looked into this at one point, but the battery has never failed me.
Check the wiring... it sounds like you might have a loose ground. Follow the ground wire from the battery to the frame and check there. If that's not it, check the battery with a multi-meter to see what it's putting to the battery.
<a href="viewtopic.php?t=3259">See this thread for some good diagnostic steps, etc for low battery issues</a>
Also, since you have a GY6 just laying around, try swapping the CDI on the Blur for the one on the Ruckus. It's rare to see these go, but CDI's can sometimes go bad.
It doesn't have anything plugged into the charging outlet under the seat, does it? Nothing shorting that out either? I've taken apart an 07 before and that charging outlet is easy to mangle if you pull the seat out the first time without knowing how close the clearance is.
Let us know what you try and how that works out.
Check the wiring... it sounds like you might have a loose ground. Follow the ground wire from the battery to the frame and check there. If that's not it, check the battery with a multi-meter to see what it's putting to the battery.

Also, since you have a GY6 just laying around, try swapping the CDI on the Blur for the one on the Ruckus. It's rare to see these go, but CDI's can sometimes go bad.
It doesn't have anything plugged into the charging outlet under the seat, does it? Nothing shorting that out either? I've taken apart an 07 before and that charging outlet is easy to mangle if you pull the seat out the first time without knowing how close the clearance is.
Let us know what you try and how that works out.
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By using an 11 pole stator, do you know if I have to rewire anything? When I swapped my Ruckus, the guy that built my harness needed to know which pole stator I was using. With that in mind, I would assume that 6, 8 and 11 pole stators may be wired up differently (could just be the plug).Lostmycage wrote:Theoretically, you should be able to swap in an 11 pole stator, but I've not heard of anyone doing this. I had looked into this at one point, but the battery has never failed me.
Check the wiring... it sounds like you might have a loose ground. Follow the ground wire from the battery to the frame and check there. If that's not it, check the battery with a multi-meter to see what it's putting to the battery.<a href="viewtopic.php?t=3259">See this thread for some good diagnostic steps, etc for low battery issues</a>
Also, since you have a GY6 just laying around, try swapping the CDI on the Blur for the one on the Ruckus. It's rare to see these go, but CDI's can sometimes go bad.
It doesn't have anything plugged into the charging outlet under the seat, does it? Nothing shorting that out either? I've taken apart an 07 before and that charging outlet is easy to mangle if you pull the seat out the first time without knowing how close the clearance is.
Let us know what you try and how that works out.
I'll check out the ground tonight when I get home. Would you, or anyone have a wiring diagram for the whole scooter? I would like to go over all of the grounds (I believe the Ruckus had 3).
Going to run the multi meter tonight as well.
I've had the seat out a few times already, and I know what you mean as far as the cigarette lighter outlet thing. The prongs and connectors seem to be in good shape (a little bent to one side, but in good shape).
Is a GY6 CDI the same as one on the Blur? I read that some CDI's are AC while others are DC. I think the plugs may be different though (AC and DC).
- Lostmycage
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Honestly I don't recall. I looked into the stator stuff over a year ago. I was considering adding some auxilary electrical items and had heard that the Blur has a weak charging system. I then figured out the best way to keep the battery charged is to ride it, lol.
I think there is some rewiring that might be needed. I don't think I ever got a solid answer on this one. There might be enough to go on in the service manual.
,a href="viewtopic.php?p=151886#151886">Check here for the service manual</a>
As far as the CDI's well... that's another grey area. The Blur supposedly uses the same 6 pin CDI that the "standard" GY6 does. However, the Blur is finicky about CDIs. I've never found one that works well. The red one from Autotech causes the headlight to turn off at idle and the NCY one causes the kill switch to not work correctly (turns off lights/dash, engine keeps running when the KS is flipped to off).
Now for the under seat light, I've had really good results with switching it to an LED light. It's brighter and draws even less current than the stock lamp. Kind of a very minor issue from my experience. I've still got the stock battery in mine and it's never given me any problems.
One other thing to check is the Voltage regulator. I heard from a fella in Taiwan that the stock PGO Gmax had regular issues with the regulator - not always an all out failure, but supposedly, if you take the regulator from a SYM RV250, it cleans up the electrical system. Keep in mind I've not heard of anyone in the states with this issue or solution. Just throwing that out there.
I think there is some rewiring that might be needed. I don't think I ever got a solid answer on this one. There might be enough to go on in the service manual.

As far as the CDI's well... that's another grey area. The Blur supposedly uses the same 6 pin CDI that the "standard" GY6 does. However, the Blur is finicky about CDIs. I've never found one that works well. The red one from Autotech causes the headlight to turn off at idle and the NCY one causes the kill switch to not work correctly (turns off lights/dash, engine keeps running when the KS is flipped to off).
Now for the under seat light, I've had really good results with switching it to an LED light. It's brighter and draws even less current than the stock lamp. Kind of a very minor issue from my experience. I've still got the stock battery in mine and it's never given me any problems.
One other thing to check is the Voltage regulator. I heard from a fella in Taiwan that the stock PGO Gmax had regular issues with the regulator - not always an all out failure, but supposedly, if you take the regulator from a SYM RV250, it cleans up the electrical system. Keep in mind I've not heard of anyone in the states with this issue or solution. Just throwing that out there.
Check out
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I emailed Genuine, and they got back to me. They said the pet carrier light problem was only in the 2006 models, notthe 2007's, at all. Something about the latch not hooking correctly (probably too much tolerance).
I looked all over for the SYM RV 250 voltage regulator, but can't seem to source one. I'm guessing I may have to walk into a Sym dealership. The nearest one to me is still somewhat far.
My multi meter was acting up. New one comes in the mail today. Going to do my voltage tests when I leave work.
I see that NCY (a Taiwanese company) makes an upgraded stator setup for the Blur. Not sure I want to jump into that, unless I have to. It's quite a bit more money than just an 8 pole or 11 pole setup with CDI.
Hopefully it's something stupid. Will report back.
I looked all over for the SYM RV 250 voltage regulator, but can't seem to source one. I'm guessing I may have to walk into a Sym dealership. The nearest one to me is still somewhat far.
My multi meter was acting up. New one comes in the mail today. Going to do my voltage tests when I leave work.
I see that NCY (a Taiwanese company) makes an upgraded stator setup for the Blur. Not sure I want to jump into that, unless I have to. It's quite a bit more money than just an 8 pole or 11 pole setup with CDI.
Hopefully it's something stupid. Will report back.
- Lostmycage
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A word of caution on that NCY stator, it's for racing use only. The idea is that it produces only enough current to run the spark plugs. It'd be a reduction in power output.
That's assuming that you're referring to the "Racing" stator.
That's assuming that you're referring to the "Racing" stator.
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Messing with the Blur now.....
12.50v engine off, pet carrier light relay disconnected, key off.
12.48v same as above, relay connected, pet carrier light on.
11.99v engine running, headlight on, squeezing back brake, at idle.
11.99v same as above, at 3000rpm
11.99v same as above, at 5500rpm
Looks like engine isn't charging battery at all. Either electronics aren't working, or ground is completely off somewhere. The multi meter doesn't even flicker on the last digit at all when I rev the scooter.
This battery had a full charge yesterday before I rode it to and from work. I'm assuming the ride to and from work dropped voltage from whatever full would be, down to 12.5v.
Gonna look for bad grounds, and maybe swap regulator and/or cdi from the Ruckus.
12.50v engine off, pet carrier light relay disconnected, key off.
12.48v same as above, relay connected, pet carrier light on.
11.99v engine running, headlight on, squeezing back brake, at idle.
11.99v same as above, at 3000rpm
11.99v same as above, at 5500rpm
Looks like engine isn't charging battery at all. Either electronics aren't working, or ground is completely off somewhere. The multi meter doesn't even flicker on the last digit at all when I rev the scooter.
This battery had a full charge yesterday before I rode it to and from work. I'm assuming the ride to and from work dropped voltage from whatever full would be, down to 12.5v.
Gonna look for bad grounds, and maybe swap regulator and/or cdi from the Ruckus.
- babblefish
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It sounds like you're running in a "total loss" situation - in other words, running completely off the battery. I don't think the CDI will have anything to do with your charging problem. I'd first check the 10A fuse in the smaller red wire going to the positive terminal of the battery. This wire is how the battery gets it's charge from the alternator. If the fuse is good, then with a voltmeter, check the voltage on the orange wire coming out from the voltage regulator - it's bolted to the frame under the pet carrier. If I'm reading the schematic correctly, the voltage there should increase as engine rpm increases. This wire should go to the ignition switch and with the key in the "ON" position, supplies power to the scoot's electricals and charges the battery. If the voltage does not increase with engine rpm, then you may have either a bad voltage regulator or a bad stator in the alternator. Hope this helps.
Some people can break a crowbar in a sandbox.
- Lostmycage
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I've got to agree, it's most likely not the CDI... I was just hoping he might stumble onto one that works with the Blur I was of course assuming that the one on his Ruckus swap was a "performance" CDI). Sorry for the ulterior motives.
Hopefully it's as simple as a fuse. Alternately, I'm hopping it's the rectifier - those two are a lot easier to change out than a stator. Keep us posted.
Hopefully it's as simple as a fuse. Alternately, I'm hopping it's the rectifier - those two are a lot easier to change out than a stator. Keep us posted.
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Oh wow, u guys are never gonna believe this. Everything makes sense now.
I got my Blur used, from a scooter shop. I know it wasn't there long, and it only had 320 bdu's when I picked it up. It already had a new/replacement battery in it, which I thought was slightly strange (I believe this Blur was originally put on the road earlier this year). The only thing the shop I bought this at is that it was a local trade from someone they knew, and they guarentee it was never dropped or layed down (in writing). Looking at where the scooter shop was, there isn't a Genuine dealer near by, which is probably why the original owner never brought it in for warranty. Anyway, it looks to me that the original owner had the same problem with the battery discharging completely, hence the bigger battery, but probably got fed up after a little while, because you really can't ride it far, and its frustrating knowing you bought something new that needs warranty work, with no dealership nearby. This is only speculation, but I would thing that he got pissed off and traded it in. I don't think it was at the shop long enough for them to know there was a problem (because the battery does hold charge. Just dies down when you ride).
Anyway, I found the problem! I was ready to rip the whole scooter apart to fix this, as this thing is my mode of transport to work several days a week. I first checked the ground strap from the - terminal to the frame, and that was solid. Just by dumb luck, I looked under the rubber boot where the harness connectors are that connects the scooter's harness to the magneto/stator on the engine. 2 bullet connectors, a white harness plug and a red harness plug. The white plug wasn't clipped on! I was like WTF?? They were touching, but barely. May have made contact sometimes, but probably not really. That would explain why the battery dies quicker some days and slower on others. Can you believe that? Looking at the clip, I thought maybe the snap lock part broke, but it was brand new on both sides. Plugged the thing back in, started up the scooter and ran the multi meter, and the numbers definitely jumped up when I cracked the throttle.
So happy that its something stupid like that. I think I'm going to love the Blur so much more now. Cost me time, but $0 to fix!
Thank you guys for everything.
I got my Blur used, from a scooter shop. I know it wasn't there long, and it only had 320 bdu's when I picked it up. It already had a new/replacement battery in it, which I thought was slightly strange (I believe this Blur was originally put on the road earlier this year). The only thing the shop I bought this at is that it was a local trade from someone they knew, and they guarentee it was never dropped or layed down (in writing). Looking at where the scooter shop was, there isn't a Genuine dealer near by, which is probably why the original owner never brought it in for warranty. Anyway, it looks to me that the original owner had the same problem with the battery discharging completely, hence the bigger battery, but probably got fed up after a little while, because you really can't ride it far, and its frustrating knowing you bought something new that needs warranty work, with no dealership nearby. This is only speculation, but I would thing that he got pissed off and traded it in. I don't think it was at the shop long enough for them to know there was a problem (because the battery does hold charge. Just dies down when you ride).
Anyway, I found the problem! I was ready to rip the whole scooter apart to fix this, as this thing is my mode of transport to work several days a week. I first checked the ground strap from the - terminal to the frame, and that was solid. Just by dumb luck, I looked under the rubber boot where the harness connectors are that connects the scooter's harness to the magneto/stator on the engine. 2 bullet connectors, a white harness plug and a red harness plug. The white plug wasn't clipped on! I was like WTF?? They were touching, but barely. May have made contact sometimes, but probably not really. That would explain why the battery dies quicker some days and slower on others. Can you believe that? Looking at the clip, I thought maybe the snap lock part broke, but it was brand new on both sides. Plugged the thing back in, started up the scooter and ran the multi meter, and the numbers definitely jumped up when I cracked the throttle.
So happy that its something stupid like that. I think I'm going to love the Blur so much more now. Cost me time, but $0 to fix!
Thank you guys for everything.
- Lostmycage
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That's awesome! Tracking down electrical issues can be daunting. Well spotted!
Check out
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