Oil Change

nolte1231234 · Post by **nolte1231234** » Fri Aug 08, 2008 8:23 pm

Hi,

I am going to change my gear and engine oil for the first time on my 2007 blur I bought about three months ago. I have about 650 miles (or whatever unit they are in).

I really do not want to mess with the oil filter because it looks like a pain in the ass from what I have seen from other posts. I am going to put in 10w40 synthetic blend engine oil. Is this ok? Do I need to change the oil filter at this time too, or can I just leave it?

Thanks for the help.

Nick

Davek · Post by **Davek** » Fri Aug 08, 2008 8:48 pm

You'll probably get yes and no for the synthetic and filter questions.. but one thing you should really consider is that your warranty will be void if you do that first service.. I think you can do all the services after that one yourself.

I took my scooter in for some warranty work (getting bad gas mileage.. looks like it was a bad carb), and that was one question they asked me before taking it; if I had done the first service myself.

illnoise · Post by **illnoise** » Fri Aug 08, 2008 9:49 pm

yep, you should have the first service done by a dealer. They're supposed to check/adjust valves and they theoretically do other stuff and get service updates from Genuine. They have the experience and information to know what to look for.

I'd DEFINITELY change the filter for the first service, that's the whole point, your first change is meant to get any metal bits and break-in debris out of there quickly before it does any damage. It'd also be wise to change it if you're changing from dino to synth, because the filter holds a lot of oil and you're not supposed to mix 'em.

10W40 is fine, synth is fine, but change the filter, and if you do it yourself, find out what else the dealer does and do it, too, and know that your warranty might be compromised.

Bryan

charlie55 · Post by **charlie55** » Fri Aug 08, 2008 11:04 pm

As long as we're on the subject (and I'm nearing my next oil change), how do you deal with the oil still trapped in the cooler? Enough in there to mess up/dilute a petroleum-based to synthetic cutover?

When I did my first change (petro-to-petro), I used a syringe to try and pull as much stuff out of the cooler as possible, but I've still gotta believe that there was a boatload of old oil still sitting in the bottom of the cooler and those mysteriously convoluted oil lines.

-Charlie55

babblefish · Post by **babblefish** » Sat Aug 09, 2008 2:21 am

charlie55 wrote:As long as we're on the subject (and I'm nearing my next oil change), how do you deal with the oil still trapped in the cooler? Enough in there to mess up/dilute a petroleum-based to synthetic cutover?

When I did my first change (petro-to-petro), I used a syringe to try and pull as much stuff out of the cooler as possible, but I've still gotta believe that there was a boatload of old oil still sitting in the bottom of the cooler and those mysteriously convoluted oil lines.

-Charlie55

Compressed air? Will probably make a heck of a mess though...

illnoise · Post by **illnoise** » Sat Aug 09, 2008 6:02 am

I didn't do my first service, and the dealer put in synthetic, so I didn't have to worry about it. I noticed you can tilt the bike a bit and get a lot more out, but I'd have to think there's still a bit in the oil cooler. Good question.

I wonder if you drained the oil but left the filter attached, then put the drain plug and dipstick back in, if you could (make sure the kill switch is on/key is out) kick it over gently a couple of times to pump some of the oil through. Or is the pump electric? I dunno, that could be a bad idea, but it's a thought.

Bb.

charlie55 · Post by **charlie55** » Sat Aug 09, 2008 4:16 pm

I did that to get as much old oil out of the engine as possible. However, I don't think it'd be too effective on the oil already in the lines and cooler since I doubt if the oil pump can generate enough pressure to blow everything out.

When the time comes, I might try:

1) Drain the oil from the engine itself.
2) Leave the filter on.
3) Unbolt the filter/cooler assembly from the frame and elevate as much
as possible to try to cause the residual oil to flow back into the engine,
then out.
4) Refasten the cooler, change the filter, then proceed as normal.

Of course, this'd only be for the petro-to-synthetic cutover. No need to be as fussy once I've settled on an oil type.

However, that compressed air idea intrigues me. It might be possible to somehow solder/attach an air fitting onto an old or "sacrificial" filter. You could then just screw that one on and blow some air through it to pressure everything in the cooler back to the crankcase (with the drain bolt removed, of course).

Thanks all,

Charlie55