I just got a new engine put in my new Rattler and its time to change the plug. I go get 4 BPR7HS plugs yesterday and when i changed my plug today the one i took out was a BPR6HSA. Not sure what the A is for at the end of the BPR6HSA. Anyone know?
I went ahead and installed the new BPR7HS and did notice that it idled somewhat ruff when cold but alright onced warmed up. The Owners Manuel (i got an old Black Cat Manuel) says it takes the BPR7HS. After doing some looking into the plugs iv found out this information and thought i would pass it on.
BPR7HS = LOW HEAT
BPR6HS = STANDARD HEAT
BPR5HS = HIGH HEAT
So far after close to 50 miles i went and ordered some BPR6HS's well be in at 4pm today... I noticed that the pickup was not as strong with the 7 the one i took out was somewhat build up with carbon,,, from the extra oil added to the gas tank from the shop... I also ordered a couple of 5's just to see how it well acted with them...
What plug do you use? Why?
Plugs?
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Major Redneck
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If you Rattler owners have not tryed the BPR6HS your missing out... With the BPR7SH the bike runs sluggish, idles ruff, low power, lower topend...
As soon as i put the cleaned up BPR6HSA back in the bike woke up and ran like it should...
I picked up 4 BPR6HS after half a day wait for it to come from another parts store. They did not have the BPR5HS.
You Rattler owners should try it on your scoot it sure has sharpend the vangs
As soon as i put the cleaned up BPR6HSA back in the bike woke up and ran like it should...
I picked up 4 BPR6HS after half a day wait for it to come from another parts store. They did not have the BPR5HS.
You Rattler owners should try it on your scoot it sure has sharpend the vangs
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Major Redneck
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I went to O"Reilly auto parts,,, there good at getting hard to find parts its where i go first. Iv check at other autoparts stores Advance Auto Parts (No), AutoZone has the BPR7HS but they want $3.99 each O'Reillys was $1.99.
In the next day or two im going to drop by the shop and ask a few questions , one being did the engine come with that plug in it?
Once you changed it then you well see what im talking about. Maybe its just my engine im not sure cuz it is not the stock one. Im sure its not going to hurt it to try, you can always go back.
Part No. 7022 NGK BPR6HS i gap'ed mine at .6mm as was the one that came with the engine. Books says .7mm i might try that but at the time its running so well im not going to tuch a thing.
In the next day or two im going to drop by the shop and ask a few questions , one being did the engine come with that plug in it?
Once you changed it then you well see what im talking about. Maybe its just my engine im not sure cuz it is not the stock one. Im sure its not going to hurt it to try, you can always go back.
Part No. 7022 NGK BPR6HS i gap'ed mine at .6mm as was the one that came with the engine. Books says .7mm i might try that but at the time its running so well im not going to tuch a thing.
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Keys
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Major Redneck
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The engine just came from Genuine last week. It was test run per the man that called me from Genuine to tell me they were shipping a new engine. I have questions, but performance is wonderful.
I'll try and find out more later this week or next about why the BPR6HSA was in the engine and not the BPR7HS.
I think running one to lean or with too low an octane would burn a hole in a piston faster. Or even running a oil injected 2stroke OUT OF GAS well do it as well. And most surely without oil. A spark plug is just that a spark, its not like it has been changed to a bolt of lighting. A spark plug is not going to change the cylinder temp. "Air Mixture" and "Octane" are what regulates the temp. With the right "Air Mixture" "Octane" and other variables, you would not even need a spark except to start the engine.
A Hotter plug plug is designed with a ceramic insert that has a smaller contact area with the metal part of the plug. This reduces the heat transfer from the ceramic, making it run hotter and thus burn away more deposits. Cold plugs are designed with more contact area, so they run cooler. High-performance engines naturally generate more heat, so they need colder plugs. If the spark plug gets too hot, it could ignite the fuel before the spark fires known as sparkknock, also timing plays a important part as well.
Any "Advise" that i give is just that. Last thing I would do is take my time out to my short life to stear someone wrong for free. I deal in facts, trial and error. My advise comes with over 45 years of riding, repairing all types of motor powered equipment. From cars, tractors, motorbikes, etc...
Iv owned over 80 motorbikes in my life, all types iv Allways had a 2stroke. I have been one of the lucky/unlucky few to have owned a KZ 500 MkIV (2stroke 500cc triple) I own 4 bikes now, 2, 2strokes, 2 4stroke sportbikes. oops make that 3 2strokers i forgot about the 73Yamaha 360 that needs new tires that iv had for over 30 years.
I dont know everything or be the best but my advise is just that...
I'll try and find out more later this week or next about why the BPR6HSA was in the engine and not the BPR7HS.
I think running one to lean or with too low an octane would burn a hole in a piston faster. Or even running a oil injected 2stroke OUT OF GAS well do it as well. And most surely without oil. A spark plug is just that a spark, its not like it has been changed to a bolt of lighting. A spark plug is not going to change the cylinder temp. "Air Mixture" and "Octane" are what regulates the temp. With the right "Air Mixture" "Octane" and other variables, you would not even need a spark except to start the engine.
A Hotter plug plug is designed with a ceramic insert that has a smaller contact area with the metal part of the plug. This reduces the heat transfer from the ceramic, making it run hotter and thus burn away more deposits. Cold plugs are designed with more contact area, so they run cooler. High-performance engines naturally generate more heat, so they need colder plugs. If the spark plug gets too hot, it could ignite the fuel before the spark fires known as sparkknock, also timing plays a important part as well.
Any "Advise" that i give is just that. Last thing I would do is take my time out to my short life to stear someone wrong for free. I deal in facts, trial and error. My advise comes with over 45 years of riding, repairing all types of motor powered equipment. From cars, tractors, motorbikes, etc...
Iv owned over 80 motorbikes in my life, all types iv Allways had a 2stroke. I have been one of the lucky/unlucky few to have owned a KZ 500 MkIV (2stroke 500cc triple) I own 4 bikes now, 2, 2strokes, 2 4stroke sportbikes. oops make that 3 2strokers i forgot about the 73Yamaha 360 that needs new tires that iv had for over 30 years.
I dont know everything or be the best but my advise is just that...
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Keys
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...and my advice comes from having roadraced a Yamaha RD250 for two years back in the 70's and what the mechanic cautioned me NOT to do. And yes, I too have ridden for many, many years and have owned over 60 motorcycles and 20 motorscooters. And it seems that no matter WHAT I post here lately, I get bashed on. I think I'm done.
"Life without music would Bb"
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Ray Knobs
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nissanman
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There's no bashing going on around here... just less "polish" on our comments. Political correctness is not necessary to ride a Rattler 
If anyone wants to bash here's your target... I appreciate all the insight and information shared on this board regardless of whom it's from. If two people see things from a different view, great! If we all agreed everytime it'd get a little boring. Without the diversity of this group I wouldn't want to be here. SO if you think I'm wrong go ahead and bash...
If anyone wants to bash here's your target... I appreciate all the insight and information shared on this board regardless of whom it's from. If two people see things from a different view, great! If we all agreed everytime it'd get a little boring. Without the diversity of this group I wouldn't want to be here. SO if you think I'm wrong go ahead and bash...EZPZ #65
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Major Redneck
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I talked to the service manager today and the new engine came from Genuine with the BPR6HS in the engine. Good enough for them good enough for me.
PS. If i did say something wrong or rub someone the wrong way forgive me. That was not my intent. Im still learning how to play with others.
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_suppo ... p?mode=nml
PS. If i did say something wrong or rub someone the wrong way forgive me. That was not my intent. Im still learning how to play with others.
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_suppo ... p?mode=nml
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Major Redneck
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Iv got 1000 miles on the engine. Iv found that using the Plug Tuning really works well at setting the airmixer with the ratter. You can get a better understanding by following simple steps. http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_suppo ... p?mode=nml 50 miles or so should be enough to tell how hot things are running using plug tuning. After three or four times you should be right on with the airmixture.
Remember If you dont understand or dont think your not able to do this "DO NOT DO IT" If you need help ask.
Remember If you dont understand or dont think your not able to do this "DO NOT DO IT" If you need help ask.
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bigbropgo
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+1nissanman wrote:There's no bashing going on around here... just less "polish" on our comments. Political correctness is not necessary to ride a Rattler
things sound like tempers flair for about 5 seconds. but remember, tolerence of deversity can be the key to social balance. yea right.
now for the rest of the normal people who are loud, have the correct answer all the time. and are never wrong. lets just keep doing what we are doing. trying stuff that doesnt work. finding things that do. but not taking the board for more than what it is. a group of strangers that to love the rattler. and hate zombies. you guys all rock and have great info to offer. or some can be the voice of opposition when someone is off their nut. either way chill out.
or go meet in an dark alley and hug it out.
no i don't ride a scooter, i am a scooter pilot!
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B02S4
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How's the hotter plug doing?
http://www.ngk.com/charglossary.asp?kw=Heat+range
Excerpt:
Heat range
The term spark plug heat range refers to the speed with which the plug can transfer heat from the combustion chamber to the engine head. Whether the plug is to be installed in a boat, lawnmower or racecar, it has been found the optimum combustion chamber temperature for gasoline engines is between 500°C–850°C. When it is within that range it is cool enough to avoid pre-ignition and plug tip overheating (which can cause engine damage), while still hot enough to burn off combustion deposits which cause fouling.
The spark plug can help maintain the optimum combustion chamber temperature. The primary method used to do this is by altering the internal length of the core nose, in addition, the alloy compositions in the electrodes can be changed. This means you may not be able to visually tell a difference between heat ranges. When a spark plug is referred to as a “cold plug”, it is one that transfers heat rapidly from the firing tip into the engine head, which keeps the firing tip cooler. A “hot plug” has a much slower rate of heat transfer, which keeps the firing tip hotter.
An unaltered engine will run within the optimum operating range straight from the manufacturer, but if you make modifications such as a turbo, supercharger, increase compression, timing changes, use of alternate racing fuels, or sustained use of nitrous oxide, these can alter the plug tip temperature and may necessitate a colder plug. A rule of thumb is, one heat range colder per modification or one heat range colder for every 75–100hp you increase. In identical spark plug types, the difference from one full heat range to the next is the ability to remove 70°C to 100°C from the combustion chamber.
The heat range numbers used by spark plug manufacturers are not universal, by that we mean, a 10 heat range in Champion is not the same as a 10 heat range in NGK nor the same in Autolite. Some manufacturers numbering systems are opposite the other, for domestic manufacturers (Champion, Autolite, Splitfire), the higher the number, the hotter the plug. For Japanese manufacturers (NGK, Denso), the higher the number, the colder the plug.
Do not make spark plug changes at the same time as another engine modification such as injection, carburetion or timing changes as in the event of poor results, it can lead to misleading and inaccurate conclusions (an exception would be when the alternate plugs came as part of a single precalibrated upgrade kit). When making spark plug heat range changes, it is better to err on the side of too cold a plug. The worst thing that can happen from too cold a plug is a fouled spark plug, too hot a spark plug can cause severe engine damage
Excerpt:
Heat range
The term spark plug heat range refers to the speed with which the plug can transfer heat from the combustion chamber to the engine head. Whether the plug is to be installed in a boat, lawnmower or racecar, it has been found the optimum combustion chamber temperature for gasoline engines is between 500°C–850°C. When it is within that range it is cool enough to avoid pre-ignition and plug tip overheating (which can cause engine damage), while still hot enough to burn off combustion deposits which cause fouling.
The spark plug can help maintain the optimum combustion chamber temperature. The primary method used to do this is by altering the internal length of the core nose, in addition, the alloy compositions in the electrodes can be changed. This means you may not be able to visually tell a difference between heat ranges. When a spark plug is referred to as a “cold plug”, it is one that transfers heat rapidly from the firing tip into the engine head, which keeps the firing tip cooler. A “hot plug” has a much slower rate of heat transfer, which keeps the firing tip hotter.
An unaltered engine will run within the optimum operating range straight from the manufacturer, but if you make modifications such as a turbo, supercharger, increase compression, timing changes, use of alternate racing fuels, or sustained use of nitrous oxide, these can alter the plug tip temperature and may necessitate a colder plug. A rule of thumb is, one heat range colder per modification or one heat range colder for every 75–100hp you increase. In identical spark plug types, the difference from one full heat range to the next is the ability to remove 70°C to 100°C from the combustion chamber.
The heat range numbers used by spark plug manufacturers are not universal, by that we mean, a 10 heat range in Champion is not the same as a 10 heat range in NGK nor the same in Autolite. Some manufacturers numbering systems are opposite the other, for domestic manufacturers (Champion, Autolite, Splitfire), the higher the number, the hotter the plug. For Japanese manufacturers (NGK, Denso), the higher the number, the colder the plug.
Do not make spark plug changes at the same time as another engine modification such as injection, carburetion or timing changes as in the event of poor results, it can lead to misleading and inaccurate conclusions (an exception would be when the alternate plugs came as part of a single precalibrated upgrade kit). When making spark plug heat range changes, it is better to err on the side of too cold a plug. The worst thing that can happen from too cold a plug is a fouled spark plug, too hot a spark plug can cause severe engine damage