Clutch, clutch springs, compression springs?

laxer · Post by **laxer** » Fri Sep 25, 2009 9:11 pm

Ok, so I've got the Uni and upjet, but of course I want more. What are the advantages of changing the clutch springs and the compression spring? What about the clutch bell? Would the NCY racing clutch be good for a Rattler? Would it be better to upgrade the variator first (like the malossi)? And probably a thousand other questions. Any advice is greatly appreciated as I am about as mechanically inclined as a retarded llama. Thanks.

bigbropgo · Post by **bigbropgo** » Sat Sep 26, 2009 2:28 am

as far as i know a aftermarket/race clutch bell is not a big thing. some have fins for cooling and some are lighter and the manufacturer claim lighter= less power lost= power gained= blinding speed. and the clutch springs and contra spring are going to change the way thing engage. and where is the power going to be used. at what rpm is the clutch going to open and produce power. at low speed (short twisty race track). or all top end (drag) even a tuned exhaust plays into how this is used. i think ray or nissanman has the malossi variator, they could offer more on that. you might be ready for a bigger carb. i'm in the same spot. how much do i want to spend and how far do i want to go. i hope others have some input also.

KS Power Nick · Post by **KS Power Nick** » Sat Sep 26, 2009 2:14 pm

What I recommend to most rattler owners is:

Slider weights and then save money for the Dr. Pulley HiT clutch. Then your stock Rattler will be a wheeling machine. The Dr. pulley clutch is expensive, but for the rattler I think it is the best clutch for it. Really I recommend the HiT clutch for all Mineralli based engines (scooters or quads)

nissanman · Post by **nissanman** » Sun Sep 27, 2009 1:24 am

Would be nice to have conformation on a working HiT Clutch and BELL combo that fits and works. MRP tried to sell them, but I always heard the bell was wrong. A good clutch is key to getting the power through to the pavement and even stock all it could do is help

I'm happy with my Malossi Variator, the different ramp works well for my modifications and weight. I'm still waiting on my 10g weights from Scooterworks... but it's only been 3 MONTHS now. Rome wasn't built in a day

bigbropgo · Post by **bigbropgo** » Sun Sep 27, 2009 1:38 am

KS Power Nick wrote:What I recommend to most rattler owners is:

Slider weights and then save money for the Dr. Pulley HiT clutch. Then your stock Rattler will be a wheeling machine. The Dr. pulley clutch is expensive, but for the rattler I think it is the best clutch for it. Really I recommend the HiT clutch for all Mineralli based engines (scooters or quads)

MRP has a vid on youtube that shows an install on a rattler. i emailed them and every power seller they list on the MRP site. (i have cried about this before). and i could not get one. and any ebay seller with one wants a gazillion bucks for it. i'm not made of money but would love to get one.

laxer · Post by **laxer** » Sun Sep 27, 2009 2:18 am

My local shop said that they had trouble with the DP Hit clutch in the Rattler, but they didn't say exactly what was wrong...

B02S4 · Post by **B02S4** » Sun Sep 27, 2009 5:05 am

UNI HiT 161301 + UNI-B161301-107P bell is NOT PnP on a Rattler...The inner bell boss needed to be ground down approx. 2mm to get it to fit for full shoe contact.

It is currently tuned with the lightest clutch springs & no pillow springs. A wheelie machine?

No.

nissanman · Post by **nissanman** » Sun Sep 27, 2009 11:40 am

I'd be happy with a clutch that grabs tight, but releases better when slowing down. The stock clutch gets a bit grabby while slowing down. But if a good clutch/bell combo runs $300... I'd change my gauges first for that kind of $$$.

B02S4 · Post by **B02S4** » Sun Sep 27, 2009 2:52 pm

I bought my HiT clutch from Scootertronics when it was on sale for just under $250, with shipping included.

It works remarkably better than stock on engagement, & it disengages smoothly.

The bell is really well made & has outer diameter cooling fins.

Was it worth the cost? IMO it's a coin-toss...

laxer · Post by **laxer** » Tue Sep 29, 2009 2:45 am

Maybe I should rephrase a little: I would like some more cheap upgrades for my Ratt and I noticed that clutch springs and compression springs were both fairly inexpensive, what is the function of the compression spring vs the clutch springs?

KS Power Nick · Post by **KS Power Nick** » Tue Sep 29, 2009 5:23 pm

Clutch springs at like your stall converter on an automatic car. They change the RPM that the clutch will engage at.

The Compression spring (AKA torque spring.. AKA Contra Spring) Does a couple of things. First it is what gives pressure to hold the belt. Second it changes how quickly the CVT transmission changes from a low gear to a high gear. 1000rpm spring changes into a higher gear than a 2000rpm spring.

When choosing which torque spring to go with you have to consider what weight is in your variator. If you go Super light with a super stiff torque spring your transmission will never get out of the lower gear range and will make your scooter loose all of its topend.

laxer · Post by **laxer** » Fri Oct 09, 2009 12:12 pm

Alright, so here's my thought: 9g Dr. Pulley sliders and 1500 compression and clutch springs. So, the heavier weight of the sliders plus the Dr Pulley slider shape SHOULD give me more top end while the higher springs SHOULD keep my low end. Right?

B02S4 · Post by **B02S4** » Fri Oct 09, 2009 11:00 pm

laxer wrote: ... the heavier weight of the sliders plus the Dr Pulley slider shape SHOULD give me more top end while the higher springs SHOULD keep my low end. Right?

Not necessarily... topic12957.html

laxer · Post by **laxer** » Fri Oct 09, 2009 11:52 pm

Awww...Dammit! Well, maybe I'll just go with the 8.5 Dr Pulley's since their shape alone is supposed to give a little more top end...

Thanks for your help, guys.