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New guy, Old bike
Posted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 11:24 pm
by Johnny5
Howdy ho! My name is Jon and my scoot is a familiar 06' Rattler 50 wrapped in blue! Tim was kind enough to sell me his beloved scooter for a fair price.
Unfortunately she blew up the way home. Only 50 miles on the NEW kit and due to under jetting a broken oiler and a poor installation, it seized. Good thing is the dealer did get me the parts for no cost. So now that I've gone through everything and taken my time with it I'm in the final stages of this tune.
Since I bought it;
-New bbk, 90 main jet
-Disabled oiler, 32:1 premix
-Removed carb pre-heater
-Removed plate/signal brackert (ugly)
-Fabbed an LED turn signal bar
-Re-packed silencer (Dang it was loud!)
Can't wait to meet the community.

Smores anyone? A bit warm I'd say.

Fatality!

Her/His new home. Can't decide on gender.

I've since changed the wiring to just Bright/off instead of Bright/Dim

Posted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 11:41 pm
by bigbropgo
I like that light mod. Sucks you had some issues so early. That kit was brand new. But sorted out and ready to roll.
Welcome to modern buddy.
Posted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 12:27 am
by jasondavis48108
have to say its a mighty good look'n scooter. Sucks that it blew up, they must have had it way under jetted. My jetting is on the lean side but I've not had any problems with it thus far and the 50cc scoots just don't put out enough power to lose some to running on the rich side. btw is that your Areo as well?
Posted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 12:53 pm
by Johnny5
Thanks for the compliment. I was worried that it wouldn't be bright or large enough but it does suffice. The big bright LED brake light helps me get noticed as well.
It had an 80 jet which looked old enough to be the original. Do you guys know what your stock jet was?
That was my Aero. Sold it to make room for the Rattler. Main reason for switching was so the wife could ride more comfortably with me. I liked that scooter a lot.
Posted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 4:24 pm
by Keys
That piston ollks like detonation was the culprit. My 110 blew up twice due to detonation and come to find out, the factory recommended plug was way too hot. Swapped it out for a colder plug and haven't had any more issues.
--Keys
Posted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 8:14 pm
by Johnny5
Keys: Very interesting about the plugs. I just got some new plugs only to find they are different than the one I pulled. I pulled a BR7HS and the stock plug should be a BP7HS.
What plugs are you running? Aren't they the same 50/110
Here's my new one on top. I just modded my airbox so I gotta upjet.
Below it you can see the difference between the 2.

Posted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 9:06 pm
by agrogod
Correct me if I'm wrong, but the two plugs you have are essentially the same, I was under the impression that "R" on a plug just meant Resistor. Mostly used on vehicles with high out-put alternators so you don't pick up "engine noise" on radios, cell phones, CB's, etc..
Posted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 11:29 pm
by Johnny5
You are correct about the resistor part. I wonder why they aren't OEM?
Anyways, you can see clearly that the electrode/insulator are is almost 1/4" longer on the OEM # plug.
Posted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 12:43 am
by Keys
The resistor will make no difference. They call for BP7HS. The "P" stands for "projector", which means the element sticks out farther from the edge of the plug, rather than being even. I don't know the mechanics, but it somehow makes the plug "hotter". I am currently running a BR(no projector)8(colder)HS. I lost nothing in power and the plug runs a happy tan.
I opened up the airbox, installed a Prima pipe and upjetted and with the colder plug, the engine seems to be set up just right!
--Keys
Posted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 3:33 am
by Johnny5
Thanks for the info Keys. I'm gonna get me some colder plugs asap. Now's the hard question . . . to "P" or not to "P"
Those Prima kits should come with a colder plug. Here are the reasons I think the 70 kit runs hotter than the stock 50
-Tested 125 psi compression (high) exasperated by,
-A tuned exhaust system that will increase cylinder loading
-Higher sustained RPM from transmission tuning
On the intake mod front. I tried running it the past few days without the filter (airbox still attached) with a 95 main jet and it ran better than ever! Noticeably more top end and better fluidity throughout the mid-range. If you look at the airbox when it's removed (on the 50's at least) the plastic part of the filter element comes within very close proximity to the intake to the carb. I would think this would create a turbulence or disruption of air just before entering the carburetor. At least those are the results I've experienced.
I'm gonna order a Uni or a Malossi and see if I can bear the sound. If not I'll try to fab an internal cone/foam filter to fit inside the stock airbox.
Figuring it all out...
Posted: Sun Jul 03, 2011 6:41 pm
by Johnny5
It's been a while since my last post but I wanted to add some info on the "70 kit" that scooter works sells. You see, a kit would include all the necessary parts right? So I'll refer to it as a "kit"
So with the stock airbox installed and the 95 jet in place, which was the larger of the 2 supplied in the "kit" I was still running so lean it dry seized twice after 75 miles on the new jug. It was boggy too while trying to maintain cruising speeds.
I tried several things and this is what I found to work best. $5 foam "UNI" style air filter I bought off eBay and a 110 main jet. No problem cruising and even after a full throttle attempt to break the land speed record I read 333' f at the head.
Now I'm not sure if my scoot is the odd ball in this 70 "kit" world but I'm glad it's over. I'm starting to enjoy this little Rat.
BTW, I hear a buzzing sound after cruising at high speeds for a while. Reeds? Could the bearings have spun a lil' from the overheating? Anyone experience something like this? Peace out y'all
