Broken Exhaust Bolt
Moderator: Modern Buddy Staff
-
hi2525
- Member
- Posts: 69
- Joined: Sat Jul 12, 2008 10:44 pm
- Location: Cincinnati Ohio
Broken Exhaust Bolt
I crashed within 20 miles of riding and 4400 miles later the exhaust broke. So When removing the bolts one on the right side broke off. I have read about a item known as a easy out but other idea's would be greatly appreciated. For I am unsure what to do.
-
Lostmycage
- FAQ Moderator
- Posts: 4062
- Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2008 3:36 am
- Location: The Interwebz!
Is there any bit of a nub left on the bolt?
You've got a few options. The easy outs are meant for smaller diameter bolts/screws. With something the size of the exhaust bolts I'd go get a can of "PB Blaster" and spray the perimeter of the bolt with it. Let it set for a moment then smack it with a ball peen hammer. The idea is not to make dents in it, but to cause vibration. The PB Blaster stuff is a rust penetrant, the vibration from the hammer hit is to help it penetrate further.
If there's some of the bolt sticking out, wipe off excess lubricant and get a good beefy pair of vice grip pliers (not the needle nose, you want the big beefy ones) crank it down so that the hammer is perpendicular to the bolt and hit that with a rubber mallet firmly, but not heavily (the idea here is to simulate the torque break cycle of an impact wrench).
If there's no nub left on the bolt, it's trickier. They have easy outs for larger bolts, but I've never used one personally.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014DDGCQ?smi ... nkCode=asn
as an example.
Other options would be to take a dremel with a small diameter cutting blade and work a flat tip notch into the bolt (I don't recommend this, it's too easy to nick the housing, which will sorta fuse them together even worse if you hit it too hard).
Last note, and this one's important: Others are going to tell you to hit it with a torch to warm it up and make it easier to get out. This could be a solution, but it's more for when you've got a stuck bolt that still has a hex head on it. The thing to look out for is to not do this soon after you use the PB Blaster - it's petroleum based and flammable. That would just be embarrassing.
Hope that helps, let us know how it works out.
You've got a few options. The easy outs are meant for smaller diameter bolts/screws. With something the size of the exhaust bolts I'd go get a can of "PB Blaster" and spray the perimeter of the bolt with it. Let it set for a moment then smack it with a ball peen hammer. The idea is not to make dents in it, but to cause vibration. The PB Blaster stuff is a rust penetrant, the vibration from the hammer hit is to help it penetrate further.
If there's some of the bolt sticking out, wipe off excess lubricant and get a good beefy pair of vice grip pliers (not the needle nose, you want the big beefy ones) crank it down so that the hammer is perpendicular to the bolt and hit that with a rubber mallet firmly, but not heavily (the idea here is to simulate the torque break cycle of an impact wrench).
If there's no nub left on the bolt, it's trickier. They have easy outs for larger bolts, but I've never used one personally.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014DDGCQ?smi ... nkCode=asn
as an example.
Other options would be to take a dremel with a small diameter cutting blade and work a flat tip notch into the bolt (I don't recommend this, it's too easy to nick the housing, which will sorta fuse them together even worse if you hit it too hard).
Last note, and this one's important: Others are going to tell you to hit it with a torch to warm it up and make it easier to get out. This could be a solution, but it's more for when you've got a stuck bolt that still has a hex head on it. The thing to look out for is to not do this soon after you use the PB Blaster - it's petroleum based and flammable. That would just be embarrassing.
Hope that helps, let us know how it works out.
Check out 
Scoot Richmond's new site: My awesome local shop.
Scoot Richmond's new site: My awesome local shop.-
hi2525
- Member
- Posts: 69
- Joined: Sat Jul 12, 2008 10:44 pm
- Location: Cincinnati Ohio
-
Lostmycage
- FAQ Moderator
- Posts: 4062
- Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2008 3:36 am
- Location: The Interwebz!
Are you replacing the exhaust with a stock replacement or are you going with an aftermarket? The stock will use the same holes, and a good aftermarket (NOT easy to find) should use the stock mounting holes as well.
Are you able to grab at the sheered bolt, or did it sheer off even with the swing arm mounts?
Are you able to grab at the sheered bolt, or did it sheer off even with the swing arm mounts?
Check out Scoot Richmond's new site: My awesome local shop.
Scoot Richmond's new site: My awesome local shop.-
hi2525
- Member
- Posts: 69
- Joined: Sat Jul 12, 2008 10:44 pm
- Location: Cincinnati Ohio
I have put penetrating lube on it first putting some paper towels in it to protect the inside of. I have a couple of threads open to grip and waiting till mourning with light to do anything else.
I have a pipe I got from the for sale/wanted portion a couple months ago for $85. That is going to save me. For I can't seem to find any other available currently.
Where the exhaust broke is completely random. The exhaust broke at the weld connecting to the header bracket. The brake in the weld is what I consider weird and the metal just does not seam to be able to brake due to a side fall at such a low speed.
Also need to know the length of the stud to put back in the bike. Most likely some harder steel for the stud. Have not been able to find that info out yet.
Also it is easier to contact PGO than it is Genuine. From the information present on their websites. Hoping to get the stud length from one of them.
I have a pipe I got from the for sale/wanted portion a couple months ago for $85. That is going to save me. For I can't seem to find any other available currently.
Where the exhaust broke is completely random. The exhaust broke at the weld connecting to the header bracket. The brake in the weld is what I consider weird and the metal just does not seam to be able to brake due to a side fall at such a low speed.
Also need to know the length of the stud to put back in the bike. Most likely some harder steel for the stud. Have not been able to find that info out yet.
Also it is easier to contact PGO than it is Genuine. From the information present on their websites. Hoping to get the stud length from one of them.
-
hi2525
- Member
- Posts: 69
- Joined: Sat Jul 12, 2008 10:44 pm
- Location: Cincinnati Ohio
I got the new exhaust on it and got the broken threads out. Used a easy out to do it but was within a little or nothing to touching threads. Then put the exhaust on it and went from there.
I did not have enough for a slot or to use the stub grabber. I did use the reverse threaded drill bits. For fear of the drill bit breaking. It was successful. Going to drive in the mourning. Also took off the bottom faring then the fan cover cover.
I did this with the bike on its side for unable. To get drill in there correctly or anything of that matter with the of drilling it in. I used a center tap. To mark center then drilled. Noticed how soft the metal of the studs were. From there put a tap in to make sure threads still good. Put the stud in and went with a stainless steel stud with never cease present. Then put up on it wheels again. Then gasket on. Then play with the header for a while to get on. Then some put on the muffler with some ever-cease on the threads holding the muffler on and the header to help put on the muffler. Then put back on the bottom faring then the fan cover cover. Going to go riding tomorrow. Checking the bolts when the bike has been running for a while.
Thanks lost your cage for the info. THe PB blaster works really well and the only way I was able to get it out and forgot and that it needs to be a penetrative.
If this happens to anybody else let me know.
I did not have enough for a slot or to use the stub grabber. I did use the reverse threaded drill bits. For fear of the drill bit breaking. It was successful. Going to drive in the mourning. Also took off the bottom faring then the fan cover cover.
I did this with the bike on its side for unable. To get drill in there correctly or anything of that matter with the of drilling it in. I used a center tap. To mark center then drilled. Noticed how soft the metal of the studs were. From there put a tap in to make sure threads still good. Put the stud in and went with a stainless steel stud with never cease present. Then put up on it wheels again. Then gasket on. Then play with the header for a while to get on. Then some put on the muffler with some ever-cease on the threads holding the muffler on and the header to help put on the muffler. Then put back on the bottom faring then the fan cover cover. Going to go riding tomorrow. Checking the bolts when the bike has been running for a while.
Thanks lost your cage for the info. THe PB blaster works really well and the only way I was able to get it out and forgot and that it needs to be a penetrative.
If this happens to anybody else let me know.