Well tonight I replaced my stock rollers with sliders. My blur has approx 1,450 BDU's. The first thing I noticed was that all of rollers had flat spots on them. My old rollers were the same way.
This probably explains why my new blur felt slower than my old blur in acceleration. First I installed the 12 gram sliders with the stock variator. Acceleration mas MUCH smoother and more linear than with the stock rollers. Pulled nice and even up to about 50mph, then slowed down up to a max gps top speed of 62mph on flat ground (gps verified) at 8,000 RPM. So, top speed was identical to stock, but accelleration was much better. Note: my bike is all stock
Next, I tried the 14 gram sliders. No good at all. The bike was SLOW and only managed to rev to about 5,900-6,000rpm and topped out at about 50 mph. It felt like it had no power. Needless to say I put the 12gr sliders back in.
I just ordered 2 more sets of Dr. Pulley sliders, as I found a cheap seller opn ebay in taiwan ($10.00/set) in 10 & 11 gram. I will post results as soon as I try these lighter weights.
I am thinking of ordering the complete NCY transmission kit from Scooterworks which comes with everythig, but I am also thinking about the dr pulley variator. Have any of you guys tried the Scooterworks complete transmission kit by NCY?
I am also thinking about ordering the final drive gear from Scooterworks if I do the above mentioned mods but I do not know twhat the stock gearing is. Does anyone know what the stock gearing is on our Blurs?
My Blur transmission results
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Lostmycage
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I just picked up the NCY Kit on Friday, but I was out of town this weekend. I'll be installing it and I'll give a comparison between that and the Dr Pulley variator hopefully early this week. I'm going to pull the variator apart and weigh each portion of each 3 options to find out the differences between the two.
If you don't mind waiting, hold off a day or two and I'll have some results for you and a recommendation.
Also, just an FYI, I tried 10.5g rollers in it before and it just didn't seem right. I think they're too light. I'll retry them in the new setup, and then see how the sliders like to be mixed. I've had really good luck with mixing in the past.
I think the 12g are pretty close to perfect for the Blur's in their stock trim or with variator kit (pretty much anything short of a full engine upgrade).
Oh... and I'm guessing that you're keeping the Blur? I'd hate to let it go after making it look so awesome.
If you don't mind waiting, hold off a day or two and I'll have some results for you and a recommendation.
Also, just an FYI, I tried 10.5g rollers in it before and it just didn't seem right. I think they're too light. I'll retry them in the new setup, and then see how the sliders like to be mixed. I've had really good luck with mixing in the past.
I think the 12g are pretty close to perfect for the Blur's in their stock trim or with variator kit (pretty much anything short of a full engine upgrade).
Oh... and I'm guessing that you're keeping the Blur? I'd hate to let it go after making it look so awesome.
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davelhunter
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Lostmycage, Yes I am keeping my Blur. I just put too much time and effort into it to let it go. I know as soon as I sold it I would really regret it. It is such a rare bike these days. I sold my 2008 Kawi Ninja 250 instead. I have decided to use the extra money to really make the Blur into my project to see what kind of performance I can get out of it.
Please let me know your results with the NCY kit. I am considering sending my motor out to KS Power (www.kspoweronline.com). Has anyone here dealt with this company? I just spoke to Jason quite extensively today and these guys really seem to be the experts on the GY6. They build custom drag racing scooters. They do port & polish, big bore kits from 180cc - 200cc, exhaust, etc. They even sell custom built complete racing engines and can build your existing motor into anything you can pretty much imagine. They have these engines doing wheelies and running 100mph! Of course I would have them do a "street version" with less compression, etc. so it would be reliable for street use. I am considering the 63mm 180cc kit which would come with a ported & polished big valve head and 30mm carb. He told me I would pretty much have a 80mph bike that would rip off the line with the ability to do wheelies if wanted. Sounds like I won't be missing my Ninja 250 after all.
Please let me know your results with the NCY kit. I am considering sending my motor out to KS Power (www.kspoweronline.com). Has anyone here dealt with this company? I just spoke to Jason quite extensively today and these guys really seem to be the experts on the GY6. They build custom drag racing scooters. They do port & polish, big bore kits from 180cc - 200cc, exhaust, etc. They even sell custom built complete racing engines and can build your existing motor into anything you can pretty much imagine. They have these engines doing wheelies and running 100mph! Of course I would have them do a "street version" with less compression, etc. so it would be reliable for street use. I am considering the 63mm 180cc kit which would come with a ported & polished big valve head and 30mm carb. He told me I would pretty much have a 80mph bike that would rip off the line with the ability to do wheelies if wanted. Sounds like I won't be missing my Ninja 250 after all.
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Lostmycage
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Well, I'm currently double checking that I have the correct kit before I install it. There's a bit of a misprint on the Scooterworks site concerning two different kits. I think I'll hear something back pretty soon. Once I do, I'll strip the Blur of it's Dr Pulley variator and take them all down to the post office to weight the various parts (no scale at home 
). Once I have that data, I'll put the NCY variator only in and see how that feels compared to the Dr Pulley, then from there, I'll install the rest of the kit and try to summarize the results.
As far as KSPower... The only person that I know that has gotten anything from them is djelliot. He bought their valve spring kit (which is a little pricey, IMO, but from all accounts seems like good quality). I've no doubt that they know their stuff for GY6's. I've actually followed them on Scootdawg. They're eager to help, but there has been one or two "hiccups" in customer service which keeps them from getting a 5 star rating (purely from a 3rd person perspective, keep that in mind) which could have been due to the customer expecting something unreasonable. I'm not privy to the exact circumstances, so it's hard to pass judgement. I will say that the customer seemed a bit irrational. We'll leave it at that.
I'd want some more info on the 63mm kit. It's my understanding that most of those kits run around the 65.5mm or larger (65.5mm is the outer sleeve diameter for the 61mm kits) outer sleeve diameter (this is what the case has to be machined to to accept the kit). That leaves a very thin layer of metal around the bolts that hold the head on, probably less than I'd be comfortable with. The trouble with this is that even if they're willing to back up their work (I don't doubt that they are willing to do that) the casing is different on our version of the GY6 in the CVT case dimensions. We've got a bit of a rare bird in the Blur. KSPower deals in the more "standard" GY6 engines with either a long or short case (13" or 10" wheel generic China scoots where the case refers to the CVT housing size). I've no doubt that they're very familiar and versed in what those cases can hold. The PGO version shares a lot of similarities, but there are enough differences to raise the caution flag.
That all said, I've got a lot of hope for KSPower. They really do seem like enthusiast who are willing to go the extra mile. I've emailed them and exchanged PMs with them and they've been very attentive and professional so far, but I've seen no results yet. I'm the type of person that meticulously evaluates each step before proceeding. I don't know why, really... if I trash the Blur, I meet my wife's stipulations for buying a new (bigger, better, badder or at least different scoot), but the Blur just has me captivated. It's pretty bad-ass! Mine will do 80 when I want it to with just some "minor" tweaking. I still wouldn't take it on the highway... but if you saw I64 in Richmond, you'd understand.
I'd press them for a lot of details before committing to a major site unseen engine rebuild. I'd personally hate to be the Blur test subject.
KSNick, feel free to chime in here, we're pretty much talking about you and your guys
). Once I have that data, I'll put the NCY variator only in and see how that feels compared to the Dr Pulley, then from there, I'll install the rest of the kit and try to summarize the results. As far as KSPower... The only person that I know that has gotten anything from them is djelliot. He bought their valve spring kit (which is a little pricey, IMO, but from all accounts seems like good quality). I've no doubt that they know their stuff for GY6's. I've actually followed them on Scootdawg. They're eager to help, but there has been one or two "hiccups" in customer service which keeps them from getting a 5 star rating (purely from a 3rd person perspective, keep that in mind) which could have been due to the customer expecting something unreasonable. I'm not privy to the exact circumstances, so it's hard to pass judgement. I will say that the customer seemed a bit irrational. We'll leave it at that.
I'd want some more info on the 63mm kit. It's my understanding that most of those kits run around the 65.5mm or larger (65.5mm is the outer sleeve diameter for the 61mm kits) outer sleeve diameter (this is what the case has to be machined to to accept the kit). That leaves a very thin layer of metal around the bolts that hold the head on, probably less than I'd be comfortable with. The trouble with this is that even if they're willing to back up their work (I don't doubt that they are willing to do that) the casing is different on our version of the GY6 in the CVT case dimensions. We've got a bit of a rare bird in the Blur. KSPower deals in the more "standard" GY6 engines with either a long or short case (13" or 10" wheel generic China scoots where the case refers to the CVT housing size). I've no doubt that they're very familiar and versed in what those cases can hold. The PGO version shares a lot of similarities, but there are enough differences to raise the caution flag.
That all said, I've got a lot of hope for KSPower. They really do seem like enthusiast who are willing to go the extra mile. I've emailed them and exchanged PMs with them and they've been very attentive and professional so far, but I've seen no results yet. I'm the type of person that meticulously evaluates each step before proceeding. I don't know why, really... if I trash the Blur, I meet my wife's stipulations for buying a new (bigger, better, badder or at least different scoot), but the Blur just has me captivated. It's pretty bad-ass! Mine will do 80 when I want it to with just some "minor" tweaking. I still wouldn't take it on the highway... but if you saw I64 in Richmond, you'd understand.
I'd press them for a lot of details before committing to a major site unseen engine rebuild. I'd personally hate to be the Blur test subject.
KSNick, feel free to chime in here, we're pretty much talking about you and your guys
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davelhunter
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Lostmycage
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I just got back from a test ride with the new NCY variator. This is just an initial impression of it and by no means conclusive yet. For a comparison on even grounds I only replaced the Dr Pulley variator with the NCY variator. The rest of the kit is still in the box. Both set-ups used 12g sliders.
The Dr Pulley variator pulls nice and even up to about 60 indicated then starts loosing steam and tops out at about 75mph on even ground while running at around 7200rpms. I didn't bring any means to time it with me.
The NCY variator with 12g sliders (fresh from the box, so it's not had time to settle in) seemed much faster off the line. It jumps to about 35mph in a matter of seconds, then backs off with a nice even pull to about 50mph then it looses it's strength but slowly got to about 70-72 mph indicated and about 8000 rpms. It felt as if it's weighted too light. I'll try out some 13g sliders that I have in my toolbox (probably from the same Ebay seller - Amy something or another?) once I feel it's settled in.
Both are better variators than stock for acceleration and smoothness. At some point, I'd like to run all three on the same day to get a nice even comparison.
Overall, I'm impressed with the performance of the NCY. It's got a really strong bottom end... but it feels like it could be tweaked a little bit with some new weights. The Dr Pulley feels like it might be a better variator for mid-high range, but again, that could be the weights.
Some quick specs concerning weights:
Stock:
Fan Pulley: 7.3oz Weight pulley: 10.4oz Ramp plate: 4.8oz
Dr Pulley:
Fan Pulley: 4.5oz Weight Pulley: 10.1oz Ramp plate: 4.9oz
NCY:
Fan Pulley: 4.1oz Weight Pulley: 8.8oz Ramp plate: 4.4oz
As you can see, both the Dr Pulley and the NCY are lighter than stock, but the NCY has even less weight. I've got some early speculations on this:
The lighter NCY variator assy let's the engine spin too high (8k is out of the power band) which causes a loss of top end speed meaning that it could be solved in one of two ways:
1) Heavier variator weights. These should keep the engine in it's power band at the higher speeds which means more of the engine's power should be applied to the rear wheel
2) The lighter variator is made as a kit (which is it) that includes a heavier contra spring which should act to keep the engines RPMs in it's power band, allowing the same bottom end, off the line rush, and still keeping the engine running strong at the top end.
I'll be installing the rest of the kit (the real reason I got it) this week or weekend if weather permits. If it doesn't, I'm popping up my shade/rain shelter in the back yard and going to town, lol.
Once I have a bigger picture, I'll do the proper write up on how the kit performs as well as how to install it. I've already taken a good number of pics and I took a giant box of parts down to the post office to get a sort of "official" weight - hence the ounce measurements.
More later...
The Dr Pulley variator pulls nice and even up to about 60 indicated then starts loosing steam and tops out at about 75mph on even ground while running at around 7200rpms. I didn't bring any means to time it with me.
The NCY variator with 12g sliders (fresh from the box, so it's not had time to settle in) seemed much faster off the line. It jumps to about 35mph in a matter of seconds, then backs off with a nice even pull to about 50mph then it looses it's strength but slowly got to about 70-72 mph indicated and about 8000 rpms. It felt as if it's weighted too light. I'll try out some 13g sliders that I have in my toolbox (probably from the same Ebay seller - Amy something or another?) once I feel it's settled in.
Both are better variators than stock for acceleration and smoothness. At some point, I'd like to run all three on the same day to get a nice even comparison.
Overall, I'm impressed with the performance of the NCY. It's got a really strong bottom end... but it feels like it could be tweaked a little bit with some new weights. The Dr Pulley feels like it might be a better variator for mid-high range, but again, that could be the weights.
Some quick specs concerning weights:
Stock:
Fan Pulley: 7.3oz Weight pulley: 10.4oz Ramp plate: 4.8oz
Dr Pulley:
Fan Pulley: 4.5oz Weight Pulley: 10.1oz Ramp plate: 4.9oz
NCY:
Fan Pulley: 4.1oz Weight Pulley: 8.8oz Ramp plate: 4.4oz
As you can see, both the Dr Pulley and the NCY are lighter than stock, but the NCY has even less weight. I've got some early speculations on this:
The lighter NCY variator assy let's the engine spin too high (8k is out of the power band) which causes a loss of top end speed meaning that it could be solved in one of two ways:
1) Heavier variator weights. These should keep the engine in it's power band at the higher speeds which means more of the engine's power should be applied to the rear wheel
2) The lighter variator is made as a kit (which is it) that includes a heavier contra spring which should act to keep the engines RPMs in it's power band, allowing the same bottom end, off the line rush, and still keeping the engine running strong at the top end.
I'll be installing the rest of the kit (the real reason I got it) this week or weekend if weather permits. If it doesn't, I'm popping up my shade/rain shelter in the back yard and going to town, lol.
Once I have a bigger picture, I'll do the proper write up on how the kit performs as well as how to install it. I've already taken a good number of pics and I took a giant box of parts down to the post office to get a sort of "official" weight - hence the ounce measurements.
More later...
Last edited by Lostmycage on Fri Jul 17, 2009 12:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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davelhunter
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Lostmycage
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The NCY wins on acceleration hands down compared to both stock and Dr Pulley. The Dr Pulley has a little bit better high range. I think they just prefer different weights. That's with 12g sliders in both variators. I wouldn't call one better than the other yet. I would say that the Dr Pulley works the best with 12g sliders, but that's not to say that the NCY will be a monster with 13g sliders.
The ride this morning felt much more evened out. I think the NCY feels about as good as the Dr Pulley. I'm still thinking that the rest of the kit will find a nicely tuned CVT and a little tweaking of the weights will get the rest sorted out.
Edit: OK, I should have known better, but I figured out what I missed. I didn't scuff up the NCY variator to remove the slight haze of new parts. Once that wore off, the bike pulls just as good as the Dr Pulley. On my way home from work, I noticed that it has just as much mid-range as it had before. No high speed test yet (rush hour traffic and all), but I think the difference between the two that I noticed before was that little bit of haze (no tool oil, just a sort of haze for lack of better word - it didn't rub off when I rubbed it with my fingers, so no big concern) which caused it not to grip at well at the high end. It pulled strong all the way up to 60 (highest I got it to this afternoon).
This is a perfect example of why I like to let parts settle before adding more or making a determination on them.
The ride this morning felt much more evened out. I think the NCY feels about as good as the Dr Pulley. I'm still thinking that the rest of the kit will find a nicely tuned CVT and a little tweaking of the weights will get the rest sorted out.
Edit: OK, I should have known better, but I figured out what I missed. I didn't scuff up the NCY variator to remove the slight haze of new parts. Once that wore off, the bike pulls just as good as the Dr Pulley. On my way home from work, I noticed that it has just as much mid-range as it had before. No high speed test yet (rush hour traffic and all), but I think the difference between the two that I noticed before was that little bit of haze (no tool oil, just a sort of haze for lack of better word - it didn't rub off when I rubbed it with my fingers, so no big concern) which caused it not to grip at well at the high end. It pulled strong all the way up to 60 (highest I got it to this afternoon).
This is a perfect example of why I like to let parts settle before adding more or making a determination on them.
Check out Scoot Richmond's new site: My awesome local shop.
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GFridrich3
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Ive got the Dr. Pulley GY6 Variator kit, 12gr. sliders, Prima pipe and 105 carb jet, and windshield here, and i have NO complaints about that setup at all. Very rapid acceleration to mid 40's mph, tapers off into the upper 50's / low 60's and hits low 70's after a while before it loses the battle against wind resistance. Not riding it much now while Im looking for someone to buy it, but I think I may take it to work a couple times now that weather is getting nice again here in the Chicago area.