What would you like to know??

KS Power Nick · Post by **KS Power Nick** » Tue May 05, 2009 9:48 pm

First I would like to thank David for send us his motor.

So if there any information you would like to know while we have the motor tore apart please ask.

Here is some information to start with:

Intake Valve size 28mm

Exhaust Valve size 23mm

Stock Gearing: 13/43

Stock Sleeve Diameter (OD) 62.6mm

Stock cases hole (ID) 63mm

Lostmycage · Post by **Lostmycage** » Wed May 06, 2009 1:25 am

This is great!

I've got a few for ya. The stock cam.. is there a way of comparing it to others out there (the mysterious "A#" designations leave a lot to be desired).

What would be a step up for the final gearing. I used to have it written down, but I've misplaced what it is. 13/40 comes to mind, but I think that might be off. Are they fairly standard? There was some speculation a while back that PGO uses a different type of final gearing. What would be a good compromise in boosting the top speed (slightly - not looking for 100mph here) without killing the acceleration if we were to tune the Variators for faster acceleration?

How does the crankshaft look? There's been talk in the past that if the Blur has a weak point the crank is it. Something to do with the webbing? What kind of clearance is in the bottom of the case (oil pump) for a slightly longer crank?

OK, last one. The belt is an oddball size (812x20x28). I've read in other places that some of the "standard" long case GY6 150cc engines can take either an 842mm belt or an 835mm (?). If I recall, the 842 performed a little better. There's a 821x20x30 belt that I've found (but not tried). Is there any method of measuring the belt size that a CVT will take without getting the belt? You don't by chance have one of the 821 belts, do ya? Or would that need an over-range driven pulley and variator to work out right?
I've wondered about the belt variances in the longcase for a while now.

[edit] OK, I lied... how much material is left in the case between the bolts? And what would the max case bore be before getting too close to the bolt holes?

Thanks!

davelhunter · Post by **davelhunter** » Mon May 11, 2009 9:09 pm

Well, as many of you already know, I decided to remove my motor and mail it to KS Power to have it completely modified. I just wanted to let all of you know that my experience with them thus far has been 1st class. They really know the gy6 motor inside & out. They seem to be the experts at modding our motors since they build drag racing scooters as well as streetable motors. Nick and others at his company have been really helpful and very nice to deal with. I will post the results of my mods here in the Blur forum as soon as I get my motor back. Here is what I am having done so far:

62mm aluminum niklsil cylinder
Ported & Polished Head with performance springs and titanium retainers
A9 Racing cam
Stroker Crank
Forged piston
higher final drive gear
1,500rpm clutch springs
1,500rpm torque spring
port match stock head pipe

We decided to stick with the stock exhaust, but I sent them my head pipe to have it port matched. Also keeping the stock carb and airbox, but up jetting the carb. The reason behind keeping the stock pipe is because our stock pipe seems to perform better than many of the aftermerket pipes out there, due to the way it recirculates the exhaust in the seperate chamber almost like a turbo on a car, which results in more bottom end power. I have spoken to several people who have upgraded to aftermarket pipes and they have lost bottom end with only marginal (1-2 mph) gains on top end. Since the GMAX 200 uses the same pipe as our 105's I think the stock pipe will perform better, but we will see.

I am going to decide on adding a racing clutch (possibly NCY or MRP) and clutch bell after I try it with the stock clutch with the 1,500 springs first.

Based on performance I will decide if a bigger carb, aftermarket pipe, and clutch is needed.

I will verify all speed data using GPS and a stop watch for accelleration so my results should be accurate.

Hopefully I will be able to go through the break in and have the motor ready for the final tesing in a week or 2.

KS Power Nick · Post by **KS Power Nick** » Tue May 12, 2009 8:33 pm

The outer Gasket that is behind the right side engine cover is different than the normal GY6 you much order the replacement gasket from Genuine.

There is an oil passage that with the normal GY6 gasket will not seal up properly and would starve the top end of oil.

Lostmycage · Post by **Lostmycage** » Wed May 13, 2009 2:57 am

That's good to know, I thought that was part of PGO's EGR system. Thanks!

KS Power Nick · Post by **KS Power Nick** » Wed May 13, 2009 3:06 am

The PGO EGR system is easy to take off. Remove the four bolts that hold it to the engine cases then. Block off the hole in the cylinder to go with an aftermarket cylinder and it is gone. If you change the cylinder you may have to plug the hole on the bottom side of the cylinder head. IT just depends on which cylinder you get.

Lostmycage · Post by **Lostmycage** » Wed May 13, 2009 3:49 am

I don't know how I misread that the first time. I missed that this was the engine case (for some reason I read it as the new jug - no idea how I did that). Nevermind!

Nick, any chance you've got a few answers to the previous onslaught above?

davelhunter · Post by **davelhunter** » Fri May 29, 2009 5:56 am

Hey guys. Just wanted to let anyone that is thinking of installing different final drive gears to achieve a higher top speed, the NCY gears for gy6 engines do not fit on our PGO motors! I have my engine at KS Power and they just got in the gear set and it does not fit. They told me that the gears are too wide. If anyone had changed the final drive gears in their Blur and can confirm what brand or part # works please let me know, otherwise I will be going to route of ordering a taller rear tire to achieve the same effect. Hopefully I will save someone a lot of trouble from ordering the wrong gears.

davelhunter · Post by **davelhunter** » Sat Jun 13, 2009 3:54 pm

Hey guys, I just wanted to let everyone know who has been following my Blur project that I revieved my motor back and it is installed. I am just waiting on some different size main jets which I should have in a few days. I should have the break in complete by mid week and will post a review of all results, performance gains, etc. K&S was a great shop to deal with and every time a I had a question they took the time to answer everything. I would highly recommend them to anyone who is considering upgrading their Blur. If you are thinking about upgrading your Blur, I will be happy to provide you with any info on my motor build.

davelhunter · Post by **davelhunter** » Sat Jul 18, 2009 5:37 pm

Just wanted to give you guys an update on my modified Blur project. I have completed the break in. I am now changing the filter and going to full synthetic. Since we were unable to fit the NCY aftermarket final drive gears on the Blur. I have since tried a 150/70 rear tire. This tire did not fit and rubbed on the back of the motor. I contacted K&S and they are working on getting a gear set from Taiwan that is made for the Gmax. This is the only missing link. Once I have the new gears I will write a complete review on the bike with all the performance #'s. I just didn't see the point of writing the review without having the new final drive gears. If anyone has any questions though I would be happy to answer them. All I can say is K&S has been a 1st class place to work with, they did a great job, and my motor is running like butter. I can out accelerate my girlfriend's 3 series up to around 60 mph from a stop. Just need the gears to really get that 80mph top speed.

Lostmycage · Post by **Lostmycage** » Sat Jul 18, 2009 6:05 pm

That's very promising! I'll continue to keep an eye on this thread

davelhunter · Post by **davelhunter** » Mon Aug 03, 2009 4:46 pm

Still waiting on gears, but a 28mm flatside carb & uni intake is on the way. I will hopefully have it by the weekend to install. I will post results when complete.

mozart2k · Post by **mozart2k** » Fri Aug 07, 2009 11:30 am

I've found lagging acceleration and rev not over 6,000 rpm for a while and then rev up normally and some oil leak in belt room.

after I removed pulley and clutch. I start engine the crankshaft is swing.
I guess crankshaft bearing is loosen and oil seal is gone

I'd like to know specification or number on bearing and oil seal both side.

mozart2k · Post by **mozart2k** » Fri Aug 07, 2009 11:34 am

one more question How heavy for stock roller weight. 14g?

Lostmycage · Post by **Lostmycage** » Fri Aug 07, 2009 12:45 pm

I think the stock roller weight is 13g, but I'm not sure anyone's ever taken a brand new roller and weighed it.

mozart2k · Post by **mozart2k** » Fri Aug 07, 2009 5:19 pm

Dia 18mm Width 14
Stock Weight 13gr (viewtopic.php?p=57781)

mozart2k · Post by **mozart2k** » Fri Aug 07, 2009 5:24 pm

The next is looking for Crankcase Oil Seal and Crankshaft Bearing Number for make an order

Anybody pleaseeeeeeee...................

Lostmycage · Post by **Lostmycage** » Fri Aug 07, 2009 5:58 pm

I don't have access to this one right now (I'm at work). I'll see if I can get a MB hosted version of the parts manual up this weekend.

I can't check this site (I'm behind a proxy server at work) to be sure, but

this might have what you need in it. It's a damned good source for technical info not available in the states.

Also, if you're replacing the roller weights, try a set of the 18x14 Dr Pulley (Or Koso, they started making them as well - but no one that I've heard has tried them yet and they're the same price) sliding weights. 12g is like a sweet-spot with those on the 150cc GMax.

mozart2k · Post by **mozart2k** » Fri Aug 07, 2009 6:45 pm

Thank a lot. It just part list but I want something like a inside / outside diameter and thickness If I had spec I could buy from local dealer stock part.

Thank again

Lostmycage · Post by **Lostmycage** » Fri Aug 07, 2009 7:03 pm

Oh, I see. Unfortunately, I've never seen a list like that out there.

I know a lot of the components are exactly the same as "standard" GY6 engines, the bad part is, I don't know which parts are or are not.

Let us know if you find something.

mozart2k · Post by **mozart2k** » Fri Aug 07, 2009 7:11 pm

Okay

mozart2k · Post by **mozart2k** » Tue Aug 11, 2009 3:41 am

Yesterday I sent my bike to overhualin and also upgrade to street tune

- Change all bearing to Highgrade Japanese Bearing and Oil Seal. I think the stock grade using lower grade of material (Taiwan Grade)
- Custom made high lift camshaft SCM4 Material and Surface hardening
- High Compression Piston 58.5 mm
- Stainless pipe with stock can
- 28mm Carb

return in 2 weeks

Lostmycage · Post by **Lostmycage** » Tue Aug 11, 2009 4:29 am

ooOOoo, that does sound interesting! Keep us posted.

Modern Buddy

What would you like to know??

What would you like to know??

My Blur Project Motor with KS Power

Final Driver Gears....bummer!

Got my motor back...very pleased with K&S Power

Modded Blur projetc update.

Projetc Blur update