any buddy 50 rider used this kit?
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- jasondavis48108
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any buddy 50 rider used this kit?
I was just looking at the scooterworks website and saw this kit for the buddy 50
http://www.scooterworks.com/MHR_Cyl_Kit ... 47C517.cfm
I know that the kits make the scooter less reliable but I'm trying to find a balance between reliability and performance. I've read here that folks havn't had the best luck with the prima kits and was wondering if this one was more reliable or if it was more expensive casue it was meant for racing (although racing a little 50 seems kind of silly)?
http://www.scooterworks.com/MHR_Cyl_Kit ... 47C517.cfm
I know that the kits make the scooter less reliable but I'm trying to find a balance between reliability and performance. I've read here that folks havn't had the best luck with the prima kits and was wondering if this one was more reliable or if it was more expensive casue it was meant for racing (although racing a little 50 seems kind of silly)?
"Only the curious have, if they live, a tale worth telling at all" Alastair Reid
- jmkjr72
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ok you are miss informed about kits making your scoot less reliable
a properly set up cast iron 2 ring bbk will be just like stock
the ones that are not properly set up are not as reliable because the insteller didnt do it right
with that kit you will need a bigger carb and a better flowing pipe it and i would recomend a crank upgrade as it can be a screamer
actauly that is the replica kit and not the actual team kit
it is a great kit that can be used for daily riding but not the best kit for for daily riding
if you want a great kit that can run the stock carb that has just been upjeted and and the stock pipe or an after market pipe look at this one
http://www.spmotostore.com/CYLINDER_KIT ... 909610.htm
you will need to get your own cf reeds with this kit
a properly set up cast iron 2 ring bbk will be just like stock
the ones that are not properly set up are not as reliable because the insteller didnt do it right
with that kit you will need a bigger carb and a better flowing pipe it and i would recomend a crank upgrade as it can be a screamer
actauly that is the replica kit and not the actual team kit
it is a great kit that can be used for daily riding but not the best kit for for daily riding
if you want a great kit that can run the stock carb that has just been upjeted and and the stock pipe or an after market pipe look at this one
http://www.spmotostore.com/CYLINDER_KIT ... 909610.htm
you will need to get your own cf reeds with this kit
- jasondavis48108
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thanks for the info
I'll look into that kit you posted. I'm definitely getting a new pipe but I'd like to avoid replacing the carb at this point if possible. btw what are cf reeds, and where would I aquire them? thanks again

"Only the curious have, if they live, a tale worth telling at all" Alastair Reid
- Kaos
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I'll second that the kit doesn't mean it has to be less reliable.
Until you go doing things like cutting the cases to get the kit to fit, its basically the same as a stock motor.
Granted its not a 50cc, but my 125cc has been a 161cc for over 10k miles now and runs just as fantastic and reliably as it did on day one.
Until you go doing things like cutting the cases to get the kit to fit, its basically the same as a stock motor.
Granted its not a 50cc, but my 125cc has been a 161cc for over 10k miles now and runs just as fantastic and reliably as it did on day one.
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- Scootbeast
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I used to own a buddy 50 and upgraded to a Malossi cast iron 70cc kit. The kit had the variator as well. It was great! I rode the hell of of that little scoot. I even rode a passenger occasionally and never had any issues.
I later did the prima pipe and it was alright. It was SUPER LOUD!!! Sounded like a tiny dirt bike... I didn't really notice any gains as far as performance,but thats because I still had the stock carb. Make sure you get the 19mm carb if you do get the pipe. You won't regret it. You only thing you lose is gas mileage.
The 70cc kit was by far the best performance mod I did to that little thing. It is a bit expensive though.
I later did the prima pipe and it was alright. It was SUPER LOUD!!! Sounded like a tiny dirt bike... I didn't really notice any gains as far as performance,but thats because I still had the stock carb. Make sure you get the 19mm carb if you do get the pipe. You won't regret it. You only thing you lose is gas mileage.
The 70cc kit was by far the best performance mod I did to that little thing. It is a bit expensive though.
- jasondavis48108
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I really want to thank everyone for thier information. My dealer always errs on the side of caution and has kind of made be a bit shy of getting a 70cc kit as my little 50 is my main form of transport as long as there is no snow or ice on the road. Its good to hear that folks have had good experiences with the Malosi kits as this is what I will end up getting. Once again I really apprechiate the info, I need more power 

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The key is tuning. As long as the clearances are right and the tune is good, there is no real reason why the 70cc kit shouldn't have similar reliability to stock.jasondavis48108 wrote:I really want to thank everyone for thier information. My dealer always errs on the side of caution and has kind of made be a bit shy of getting a 70cc kit as my little 50 is my main form of transport as long as there is no snow or ice on the road. Its good to hear that folks have had good experiences with the Malosi kits as this is what I will end up getting. Once again I really apprechiate the info, I need more power
Well, that and don't go bombing WOT for 3 hours.
Valves are for wussies.
- jasondavis48108
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Anachronism wrote:The key is tuning. As long as the clearances are right and the tune is good, there is no real reason why the 70cc kit shouldn't have similar reliability to stock.jasondavis48108 wrote:I really want to thank everyone for thier information. My dealer always errs on the side of caution and has kind of made be a bit shy of getting a 70cc kit as my little 50 is my main form of transport as long as there is no snow or ice on the road. Its good to hear that folks have had good experiences with the Malosi kits as this is what I will end up getting. Once again I really apprechiate the info, I need more power
Well, that and don't go bombing WOT for 3 hours.

"Only the curious have, if they live, a tale worth telling at all" Alastair Reid
- jmkjr72
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with that trophy kit on my zuma
i have riden over an hour along country roads that are 55 mph roads with the ocasional stop sign
i had a touring pipe(not an expasnion) stock carb upjeted stock air box varatior
again if set up properly it will be just like stock if you keep your build mild
if you are worried about over heating get a cht and run a cht i will have one on my stella very soon also make sure to jet on the rich side if you are on the lean side you have more power but you run hotter this is why most people seize them up on long rides
your fuel provides cooling on an ac engine
now the more wild you build it the better off you would be doing a lc swap instead of just a bbk this is why i have a pile of lc parts for my zuma and just need a few more odds and ends
again this type of swap sould be fairly simple on the buddy as you need an hm water pump find a spot for the rad and overflow find a spot for the temp guage
i have riden over an hour along country roads that are 55 mph roads with the ocasional stop sign
i had a touring pipe(not an expasnion) stock carb upjeted stock air box varatior
again if set up properly it will be just like stock if you keep your build mild
if you are worried about over heating get a cht and run a cht i will have one on my stella very soon also make sure to jet on the rich side if you are on the lean side you have more power but you run hotter this is why most people seize them up on long rides
your fuel provides cooling on an ac engine
now the more wild you build it the better off you would be doing a lc swap instead of just a bbk this is why i have a pile of lc parts for my zuma and just need a few more odds and ends
again this type of swap sould be fairly simple on the buddy as you need an hm water pump find a spot for the rad and overflow find a spot for the temp guage
- jasondavis48108
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due to my relative noobness in all of this I have a few questions;jmkjr72 wrote:with that trophy kit on my zuma
i have riden over an hour along country roads that are 55 mph roads with the ocasional stop sign
i had a touring pipe(not an expasnion) stock carb upjeted stock air box varatior
again if set up properly it will be just like stock if you keep your build mild
if you are worried about over heating get a cht and run a cht i will have one on my stella very soon also make sure to jet on the rich side if you are on the lean side you have more power but you run hotter this is why most people seize them up on long rides
your fuel provides cooling on an ac engine
now the more wild you build it the better off you would be doing a lc swap instead of just a bbk this is why i have a pile of lc parts for my zuma and just need a few more odds and ends
again this type of swap sould be fairly simple on the buddy as you need an hm water pump find a spot for the rad and overflow find a spot for the temp guage
what is a cht, lc?
you said "you need an hm water pump find a spot for the rad and overflow find a spot for the temp guage" I din't know the buddy had any sort of water pump, or is this something your suggesting gets added to the system? also what is a rad (radiator?) This is another thing that the buddy doesn't have, so is it something your suggesting gets added to the scoot? I don't have any idea how one would accomplish this.
"Only the curious have, if they live, a tale worth telling at all" Alastair Reid
- jmkjr72
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cht cylinder head temp guage (the only way to tell how hot an ac (air cooled) engine is running
lc liquid cooled
you can converter the horizontal minerilli engine (this is the engine in the buddy rough house rattler 50 zuma vino 50 2 stroke) to a lc set up by removing the fan and replacing it with a water pump mounting a radiator and all the goodies to make your air cooled eninge liquid cooled this also involes replacing the cylinder with a lc one
its not somthing that i sugest gets added its just that if you ever want to get realy wild and go on realy long rides at wot the ac engine isnt the best for that
lc liquid cooled
you can converter the horizontal minerilli engine (this is the engine in the buddy rough house rattler 50 zuma vino 50 2 stroke) to a lc set up by removing the fan and replacing it with a water pump mounting a radiator and all the goodies to make your air cooled eninge liquid cooled this also involes replacing the cylinder with a lc one
its not somthing that i sugest gets added its just that if you ever want to get realy wild and go on realy long rides at wot the ac engine isnt the best for that
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- jasondavis48108
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That is so cool! I had no idea that you could convert from air cooled to liquid cooled. That as to be a very expensive mod but it sounds like a lot of fun.jmkjr72 wrote:cht cylinder head temp guage (the only way to tell how hot an ac (air cooled) engine is running
lc liquid cooled
you can converter the horizontal minerilli engine (this is the engine in the buddy rough house rattler 50 zuma vino 50 2 stroke) to a lc set up by removing the fan and replacing it with a water pump mounting a radiator and all the goodies to make your air cooled eninge liquid cooled this also involes replacing the cylinder with a lc one
its not somthing that i sugest gets added its just that if you ever want to get realy wild and go on realy long rides at wot the ac engine isnt the best for that
"Only the curious have, if they live, a tale worth telling at all" Alastair Reid
- jasondavis48108
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So I went to my dealer today and got some info that I'd like to run by the folks here I asked how much it would cost to get the following with installation and this is what I was told
stage 1 kit: $215
Malossi cyl kit: $199.99
Dr Pulley weights: $25
installation cost: 200-300 dollars
so I'd be looking at about $650-$750 dollars
This seems fairly reasonable to me as I was told that the majority of the labor would come from getting the jetting correct.
also, should I get the kevlar belt while I'm at it, I would guess that it would be cheaper labor wise to get both the weights and the belt done at the same time.
I would do the work myself but seeing as this is my sole scooter at the moment I can't afford to blow it up, although I do love breaking stuff, you learn a lot from breaking stuff
stage 1 kit: $215
Malossi cyl kit: $199.99
Dr Pulley weights: $25
installation cost: 200-300 dollars
so I'd be looking at about $650-$750 dollars
This seems fairly reasonable to me as I was told that the majority of the labor would come from getting the jetting correct.
also, should I get the kevlar belt while I'm at it, I would guess that it would be cheaper labor wise to get both the weights and the belt done at the same time.
I would do the work myself but seeing as this is my sole scooter at the moment I can't afford to blow it up, although I do love breaking stuff, you learn a lot from breaking stuff

"Only the curious have, if they live, a tale worth telling at all" Alastair Reid
- jmkjr72
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- jasondavis48108
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- jmkjr72
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even the guys with the z125 that are running 202 kits are still running stock belts with better sucess then the kevlarKaos wrote:Interesting, as I had to switch to Kevlars in my 161 because I kept burning up the stock style belts. Though in a 50 its likely overkill.jmkjr72 wrote:for the zuma we have come to the conclusion that kevlar belts are not worth it
if you need a new belt have them put a new stocker in
but it could also be that the belts that most stores and sites sell for the 125 are for the cynergus and not the zuma so they are not the right size
- Kaos
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Thats quite possible. Do you know what sort of failures they're having?jmkjr72 wrote:even the guys with the z125 that are running 202 kits are still running stock belts with better sucess then the kevlarKaos wrote:Interesting, as I had to switch to Kevlars in my 161 because I kept burning up the stock style belts. Though in a 50 its likely overkill.jmkjr72 wrote:for the zuma we have come to the conclusion that kevlar belts are not worth it
if you need a new belt have them put a new stocker in
but it could also be that the belts that most stores and sites sell for the 125 are for the cynergus and not the zuma so they are not the right size
I was having serious slip issues with the stock belt, and would actually start shredding them when I got above 80mph for more than a few seconds.
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