
My deadlights are dead
Moderator: Modern Buddy Staff
- 2wheelNsanity
- Member
- Posts: 385
- Joined: Sun Oct 02, 2011 8:36 pm
- Location: kansas
My deadlights are dead
The deadlights on the front of the scooter have gone out, the right one went first then the left, within a couple of days. A couple of questions: How do you remove them? And are they 10W? Any help would be apreciated. Thanx 

- Skootz Kabootz
- Member
- Posts: 4305
- Joined: Sat Nov 15, 2008 12:47 pm
- Location: West Hollywood, CA
- Contact:
- viney266
- Member
- Posts: 2270
- Joined: Thu May 19, 2011 8:49 pm
- Location: westminster md
- Contact:
- Skootz Kabootz
- Member
- Posts: 4305
- Joined: Sat Nov 15, 2008 12:47 pm
- Location: West Hollywood, CA
- Contact:
Deadlights lens removal: topic10730.html
- DanielPerrin
- Member
- Posts: 154
- Joined: Sun Oct 30, 2011 5:05 am
- Location: Oklahoma City, OK
The deadlights come stock with a 10 watt bulb (R10W, 10w amber). You can also fit 1156A or 1156NA (26 watts) bulbs in there. The bulb has a larger globe, but the base and the globe both fit in the housing, and they are brighter.
Removing the bulb goes like this: counter-clockwise to remove; clockwise to install. For removing, you may have to wiggle the bulb to get it out after you turn it counter-clockwise.
Removing the lens is trickier. topic10730.html covers the lens removal. Some things that I learned the hard way:
* The cover snaps in place tightly; there is no sliding or gently removing
* The inner edge just rests in the housing/reflector
* There is a tab at the bottom
* The upper outer edge has an angled edge that fits into a grove in the housing/reflector; that edge won't go anywhere easily
* Don't pry on anything silver; that is the housing/reflector; prying on silver things don't separate the lens from the housing/reflector
WHAT FINALLY WORKED FOR ME:
* I pried gently on the lens NEAR the bottom tab, being careful to not break the tab
* The lenses POPPED off when they finally came free
Removing the bulb goes like this: counter-clockwise to remove; clockwise to install. For removing, you may have to wiggle the bulb to get it out after you turn it counter-clockwise.
Removing the lens is trickier. topic10730.html covers the lens removal. Some things that I learned the hard way:
* The cover snaps in place tightly; there is no sliding or gently removing
* The inner edge just rests in the housing/reflector
* There is a tab at the bottom
* The upper outer edge has an angled edge that fits into a grove in the housing/reflector; that edge won't go anywhere easily
* Don't pry on anything silver; that is the housing/reflector; prying on silver things don't separate the lens from the housing/reflector
WHAT FINALLY WORKED FOR ME:
* I pried gently on the lens NEAR the bottom tab, being careful to not break the tab
* The lenses POPPED off when they finally came free
I refuse to tiptoe through life only to arrive safely at death
- jonlink
- Member
- Posts: 341
- Joined: Thu Jul 14, 2011 4:11 pm
- Location: boston
I suggest looking at LEDs not only do they tend to be brighter, but they also use less power. They also last much longer.
You can get them just about anywhere, but I bought there at SuperBrightLEDs.com.
You can get them just about anywhere, but I bought there at SuperBrightLEDs.com.
- PeteH
- Member
- Posts: 2281
- Joined: Mon Jan 17, 2011 4:32 pm
- Location: 3603mi SE of Dutch Harbor
SuperBrightLEDs has a very wide selection, but a little confusing website. I talked to their tech guy about scooter LEDs (still thinking about some green under-lights for my Italia
) and they mentioned that you'll find several instances of multiple similar bulbs/lamps, often one of which is rated at 12v and some rated at 15v. They recommended the 15v option for bike/scooter installations, as oftentimes the voltage regulation on smaller charging systems throws a slightly higher voltage. The guy said the 15v-rated lamps were less likely to blow in this situation; the lower-voltage lamps are better suited to cars/trucks with more stable electrical systems.
I'm gonna get me some LED-cluster 1156's to rig up my deadlights into running lights, but I may need to wait until spring for the temperatures to be high enough to safely remove the deadlight covers! :-S

I'm gonna get me some LED-cluster 1156's to rig up my deadlights into running lights, but I may need to wait until spring for the temperatures to be high enough to safely remove the deadlight covers! :-S
Feel da rhythm! Feel da rhyme! Get on up! It's Buddy Time!
- 2wheelNsanity
- Member
- Posts: 385
- Joined: Sun Oct 02, 2011 8:36 pm
- Location: kansas
- PeteH
- Member
- Posts: 2281
- Joined: Mon Jan 17, 2011 4:32 pm
- Location: 3603mi SE of Dutch Harbor
The deadlight housing reflectors are meant to optimize the throw of light from wide-angle (incandescent/omnidirectional) sources. The choice of LED should match that, meaning use the wide-angle LED. The narrow-angle LEDs are meant more for housings with no reflectors.
Feel da rhythm! Feel da rhyme! Get on up! It's Buddy Time!
- PeteH
- Member
- Posts: 2281
- Joined: Mon Jan 17, 2011 4:32 pm
- Location: 3603mi SE of Dutch Harbor
The 1156-CW45-T looks to be the most powerful LED cluster - 360-degree throw, 220 lumens, rated to 30v. Most expensive at $24.95 each. It's also an open question as to whether this LED 'stack' can fit under the deadlight lens, but since SuperBrightLEDs is local in STL, maybe I'll take the chance, or try the swap in their parking lot.
Feel da rhythm! Feel da rhyme! Get on up! It's Buddy Time!
- 2wheelNsanity
- Member
- Posts: 385
- Joined: Sun Oct 02, 2011 8:36 pm
- Location: kansas
- 2wheelNsanity
- Member
- Posts: 385
- Joined: Sun Oct 02, 2011 8:36 pm
- Location: kansas
Well I pulled the bulbs and checked them out, the filaments are still intact. Also, I ordered the wrong type of bulbs
. I'm an idiot I should have checked to see what type of bulb was used. With all that I'll order the correct type of led bulb, but in the meantime I'll get some incondescents locally. I hope they work cuz if they don't that means their something wrong electrically. If it is electrical what are the solutions? Anyone have a familier problem?

- 2wheelNsanity
- Member
- Posts: 385
- Joined: Sun Oct 02, 2011 8:36 pm
- Location: kansas
Well I went into town and got the old bulbs checked and they were fine. It appears the problem is within the electrical component. Does anyone have any advice on how to access the conections to the deadlights. I tried taking off the floor panel but no luck it appears I am missing some fasteners somewhere, beasides the obvious ones. Oh, well I guess I'll have to ride without the deadlights.
- PeteH
- Member
- Posts: 2281
- Joined: Mon Jan 17, 2011 4:32 pm
- Location: 3603mi SE of Dutch Harbor
2Wheel - Hold on a second... I'm having trouble understanding your sequence of events. You mention your deadlights 'went out', but then you're asking how to access the connections, correct?
The Buddy ships from Genuine with the deadlights 'dead', or disabled, as they're the original PGO turn signals, disconnected by Genuine or PGO and hooked instead to the handlebar turn signals (the 'DOT'-approved signals). The wiring from the deadlight sockets is disconnected and is lying loose inside the front scoot cover on a 'factory' scoot. In order to make them light up as running lights at all, you'd need to either splice them up yourself to hot and ground, or use one of LilBuddy's excellent Voodoo kits. If you haven't done this wiring, your lights _should_ be dead. If on the other hand you _have_ done the wiring changes, you should have been inside the scoot's front cover at least once.
All the deadlight wiring happens under the front cover - remove the two screws at the top/back of the legshield (above the 12v jack on the left side and similarly on the right side), then also remove the single screw on the front of the panel using either a Phillips screwdriver or a 10mm socket. The front cover should lift off, and it should look like LilBuddy's pictures in the Mods section.
Once you've wired the deadlights, they should work with either incandescent or LED (1156-base, not 1157) bulbs.
Fill us in on what you've done so far.
The Buddy ships from Genuine with the deadlights 'dead', or disabled, as they're the original PGO turn signals, disconnected by Genuine or PGO and hooked instead to the handlebar turn signals (the 'DOT'-approved signals). The wiring from the deadlight sockets is disconnected and is lying loose inside the front scoot cover on a 'factory' scoot. In order to make them light up as running lights at all, you'd need to either splice them up yourself to hot and ground, or use one of LilBuddy's excellent Voodoo kits. If you haven't done this wiring, your lights _should_ be dead. If on the other hand you _have_ done the wiring changes, you should have been inside the scoot's front cover at least once.
All the deadlight wiring happens under the front cover - remove the two screws at the top/back of the legshield (above the 12v jack on the left side and similarly on the right side), then also remove the single screw on the front of the panel using either a Phillips screwdriver or a 10mm socket. The front cover should lift off, and it should look like LilBuddy's pictures in the Mods section.
Once you've wired the deadlights, they should work with either incandescent or LED (1156-base, not 1157) bulbs.
Fill us in on what you've done so far.
Feel da rhythm! Feel da rhyme! Get on up! It's Buddy Time!
- 2wheelNsanity
- Member
- Posts: 385
- Joined: Sun Oct 02, 2011 8:36 pm
- Location: kansas
OK I am an idiot
I finally accessed them by removeing the front, and to my suprise I have no functional deadligths. LOL so sorry for waisting anyones time, but hey look on the bright side I learned how to completely dismantle a Buddy
.
Ty for the Vooodoo thingy I'll look into it, because I plan on doing alot of night driving on rural highways so I kinda would like the extra lighting for visabilty. Oh, ty for the correct led bulb.
I checked out http://voodooscooterparts.com/Voodoo_Products.html and I'm going to go for the BOB. Ty for the info.
Case Closed
.


Ty for the Vooodoo thingy I'll look into it, because I plan on doing alot of night driving on rural highways so I kinda would like the extra lighting for visabilty. Oh, ty for the correct led bulb.
I checked out http://voodooscooterparts.com/Voodoo_Products.html and I'm going to go for the BOB. Ty for the info.
Case Closed

- PeteH
- Member
- Posts: 2281
- Joined: Mon Jan 17, 2011 4:32 pm
- Location: 3603mi SE of Dutch Harbor
No worries, 2Wheel.
When the weather gets nicer here (warm enough to remove the deadlight lens covers without cracking them), I'm going to get mine rigged up. My wife was coming up the street the other way one day, and commented that I could use a little more front visibility, so I'm going with white LEDs, assuming the stack I want will fit between the socket and lens.
When the weather gets nicer here (warm enough to remove the deadlight lens covers without cracking them), I'm going to get mine rigged up. My wife was coming up the street the other way one day, and commented that I could use a little more front visibility, so I'm going with white LEDs, assuming the stack I want will fit between the socket and lens.
Feel da rhythm! Feel da rhyme! Get on up! It's Buddy Time!
- rkcoker
- Member
- Posts: 101
- Joined: Thu Jan 27, 2011 10:30 pm
- Location: North TX
Since you're talking LEDs, try www.ledlight.com I've found they have a good selection of LEDs available. I don't work for them, i've used their products for a couple of years. Filter the automotive types for the type "1156". The deadlights will take fairly large bulb whereas the tail light blinkers take a shorter bulb but still an 1156 type.
Southern singular is y'all
Southern plural is "all y'all"
Southern plural is "all y'all"
- AWinn6889
- Member
- Posts: 894
- Joined: Thu Sep 01, 2011 2:47 pm
- Location: Burnt Hills, NY
- Contact:
Since we're talking LEDs here.. who has swapped out their tail light?
I need something brighter.. and I would like to know what works and what hasn't worked for everyone. What would have to be changed in the wiring (if anything) and what bulb I should be looking for. Thanks guys!
I need something brighter.. and I would like to know what works and what hasn't worked for everyone. What would have to be changed in the wiring (if anything) and what bulb I should be looking for. Thanks guys!

No power in the 'verse can stop me.
- PeteH
- Member
- Posts: 2281
- Joined: Mon Jan 17, 2011 4:32 pm
- Location: 3603mi SE of Dutch Harbor
Seriously, I find my LED taillight cluster to be reasonably bright, especially the brake lite portion flashing away like mad when I hit it with my modulator. But I imagine that it would be sorta tricky to replace the LED element with something more - it would be hard to get the exact fit to replace that cluster.
I would think you'd have better luck finding a bright LED license-plate frame light that might get more attention, and could be easily patched-in to the existing plate light.
I would think you'd have better luck finding a bright LED license-plate frame light that might get more attention, and could be easily patched-in to the existing plate light.
Feel da rhythm! Feel da rhyme! Get on up! It's Buddy Time!
- KABarash
- Member
- Posts: 2049
- Joined: Fri Jun 15, 2007 2:48 pm
- Location: Depends on where I happen to be.
I'm looking to get these......PeteH wrote: I would think you'd have better luck finding a bright LED license-plate frame light that might get more attention, and could be easily patched-in to the existing plate light.
http://www.scooterworks.com/StreetFX-St ... P7909.aspx
http://www.streetfxseries.com/scooter/s ... -pods.html
Aging is mandatory, growing up is optional.
My kids call me 'crazy', I prefer 'Eccentric'.
Nullius in verba
My kids call me 'crazy', I prefer 'Eccentric'.
Nullius in verba
- AWinn6889
- Member
- Posts: 894
- Joined: Thu Sep 01, 2011 2:47 pm
- Location: Burnt Hills, NY
- Contact:
...or maybe some nice bright clip on LED lights that I could make an easily accessible plug for, for use on my milk crates. I'll have to try to fenagle something together from some bits I find at Autozone or Advance Auto... or Napa... they all carry silly add-ons like that that would probably work with the scoot. Like those brake pods... only less expensive, because the wiring is super easy and cheap to do.
No power in the 'verse can stop me.
- BootScootin'FireFighter
- Member
- Posts: 2043
- Joined: Sun Jul 19, 2009 3:11 am
- Location: (Metro DC) Alexandria, Virginia
- Contact:
I have those, not very impressed. The price is good, and any little bit helps. If money weren't an issue, I'd get these...KABarash wrote:I'm looking to get these......
http://www.scooterworks.com/StreetFX-St ... P7909.aspx
http://www.streetfxseries.com/scooter/s ... -pods.html
Skene P3 brake light.
Again, $125 is a little steep. The Scooter Pods don't flash rapidly anymore, just stay solid and blink every couple of seconds.
The modulator chip for the main brake light works great, well worth the $5
- viney266
- Member
- Posts: 2270
- Joined: Thu May 19, 2011 8:49 pm
- Location: westminster md
- Contact:
Yeah, I thought he already had the deadlight adaptor. Oops.Now he has good reason to get one. I think its a nice "extra" light to help you be seen.
I assumed...and you know what happens then
As to Led's ...Most LED taillight bulbs I have seen haven't been all that bright. The halogen ones still win in that category. Just the heat issue to deal with.
I did add LED license plate bolts ( with the LED in the center of the bolt head) to my liscense plates for a little extra light. Not real bright, but they add 2 more points of light to help me be a little "bigger" in the dark.
I assumed...and you know what happens then

As to Led's ...Most LED taillight bulbs I have seen haven't been all that bright. The halogen ones still win in that category. Just the heat issue to deal with.
I did add LED license plate bolts ( with the LED in the center of the bolt head) to my liscense plates for a little extra light. Not real bright, but they add 2 more points of light to help me be a little "bigger" in the dark.
Speed is only a matter of money...How fast do you want to go?
-
- Member
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2012 7:14 pm
- Location: Florida
Ok so I ordered the BOB Combo Adapter for my dead lights from Voodoo (http://voodooscooterparts.com/Voodoo_Products.html). And now after reading post on here and on Voodoo's site I guess I need to replace all my bulbs with LEDS. Which LEDs do I need? I read the post on here and was confused. Some people recommended the super brights for $20.00. Some recommended the wide LEDs. I would prefer to not have to pay too much as I will be replacing 4-6 bulbs. BTW, I have a 2009 Buddy 125. Where do you all recommend I shop? What bulb size/model number do I need? Thanks for your help.
- Skootz Kabootz
- Member
- Posts: 4305
- Joined: Sat Nov 15, 2008 12:47 pm
- Location: West Hollywood, CA
- Contact:
- Tam Tam
- Member
- Posts: 362
- Joined: Sat Nov 13, 2010 6:16 am
- Location: san antonio, Tx
already tried it but-have a question
The shop wired up my deadlights with a separate switch n fuse. I did pick up 12volt 1156 base led lights, but they did not light up up. The incandescents work fine however.
What brand/make/model of led bulbs have ya'll other folks used in your deadlights, please?
I'm itching to drive with the underlight LEDS and the deadlights both running, but don't wanna kill my new battery lol.
What brand/make/model of led bulbs have ya'll other folks used in your deadlights, please?
I'm itching to drive with the underlight LEDS and the deadlights both running, but don't wanna kill my new battery lol.
"When you're racing, that's when you're really alive. Everything else...everything...just becomes waiting to race." - Steve McQueen
- PeteH
- Member
- Posts: 2281
- Joined: Mon Jan 17, 2011 4:32 pm
- Location: 3603mi SE of Dutch Harbor
If the incandescents work but LEDs don't, then they wired the polarity wrong. The wiring needs to be reversed - easiest, if it's a rig like a LilBuddy kit, is to swap the ground and hot wire at the hot-wire crimp and ground point, respectively.
Feel da rhythm! Feel da rhyme! Get on up! It's Buddy Time!
- Tam Tam
- Member
- Posts: 362
- Joined: Sat Nov 13, 2010 6:16 am
- Location: san antonio, Tx
ah hell
Thanks, Pete for the diagnosis...a B.O.B. adapter wasn't used, but, seeing as how I'm gonna be spending a couple hundred bucks at the shop where the wiring was done, I may try to talk the guy into, "hey, would you mind reversing the wiring, please?" if not, hell- i'll just stick in white incadescents and only use them occasionally.
"When you're racing, that's when you're really alive. Everything else...everything...just becomes waiting to race." - Steve McQueen
-
- Member
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2012 7:14 pm
- Location: Florida