Whirring noise when I hit the starter.
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- KrispyKreme
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Whirring noise when I hit the starter.
Also when I put the hazard lights on or anything electrical. Fuse? WTF?
Edit-more of a clicking noise. I figured it was the starter but I can create the same noise when I put on the hazard lights and the turn signals.
Edit-more of a clicking noise. I figured it was the starter but I can create the same noise when I put on the hazard lights and the turn signals.
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Re: Whirring noise when I hit the starter.
[quote="KrispyKreme]
Edit-more of a clicking noise....[/quote]
Does it start at all? Maybe the battery is weak and there is not enough power to keep the relay closed. Your hearing the relay clicking?
Edit-more of a clicking noise....[/quote]
Does it start at all? Maybe the battery is weak and there is not enough power to keep the relay closed. Your hearing the relay clicking?
2014 Buddy 170i (2) One for GF
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- KrispyKreme
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jrsjr wrote:Always ALWAYS begin troubleshooting this problem by verifying that your battery is good. Checking with a voltmeter isn't good enough. You need to take it to a battery place or a shop with a "load tester."
frak. I'll do that. It's been a great battery. I just went on a trip to the store yesterday. Would a battery be totally cool one day and shit its pants the next?
- KrispyKreme
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This sounds like either the battery is not putting out what it is supposed to, or the relay is bad.
The "clicking" noise is likely from the relay dropping in and out and you are hearing the contact points opening and closing. If the voltage drops a little more, the solenoid in the relay wii sit there and "buzz". When it starts to "buzz" the "clicking" should stop.
The above can be caused by low voltage output from the battery, or a bad solenoid in the relay.
I agree with other posters that the first step would be to have the battery tested for both load and voltage output. If the battery checks good, then the relay may need replacing.
The "clicking" noise is likely from the relay dropping in and out and you are hearing the contact points opening and closing. If the voltage drops a little more, the solenoid in the relay wii sit there and "buzz". When it starts to "buzz" the "clicking" should stop.
The above can be caused by low voltage output from the battery, or a bad solenoid in the relay.
I agree with other posters that the first step would be to have the battery tested for both load and voltage output. If the battery checks good, then the relay may need replacing.
- KrispyKreme
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I will drop a fresh new battery in. Give me a day or two and I'll report. Thanks Greyscoot.Greyscoot wrote:This sounds like either the battery is not putting out what it is supposed to, or the relay is bad.
The "clicking" noise is likely from the relay dropping in and out and you are hearing the contact points opening and closing. If the voltage drops a little more, the solenoid in the relay wii sit there and "buzz". When it starts to "buzz" the "clicking" should stop.
The above can be caused by low voltage output from the battery, or a bad solenoid in the relay.
I agree with other posters that the first step would be to have the battery tested for both load and voltage output. If the battery checks good, then the relay may need replacing.


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I know some are opposed to this, but what about jumping the relay? If you jump it and they is enough battery to turn the starter, then the relay is bad. If not, then the battery is likely the culprit. How long has the battery been in use? Does it go through periods of weeks and months with no use? How long are your rides, and is a battery maintainer used? Lack of use, short lengths of recharge and age can all work against you.
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- Syd
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Where I live, it's possible the battery is perfect in the morning then dead at lunch. Usually leaving the restaurant to go back to work, too.KrispyKreme wrote:jrsjr wrote:Always ALWAYS begin troubleshooting this problem by verifying that your battery is good. Checking with a voltmeter isn't good enough. You need to take it to a battery place or a shop with a "load tester."
frak. I'll do that. It's been a great battery. I just went on a trip to the store yesterday. Would a battery be totally cool one day and shit its pants the next?

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- az_slynch
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Yup. Got tired of watching my batteries evaporate, switching them all over to gel batteries for now. Lithium is supposed to be the best, but the price is a bit high and since it's not a sportbike, the weight savings aren't going to have a significant effect on acceleration.Syd wrote:Where I live, it's possible the battery is perfect in the morning then dead at lunch. Usually leaving the restaurant to go back to work, too.
If the battery passes muster, check the starter relay terminals and the power cable connection on the battery.
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Seven mopeds ...that's still manageable...
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Seven mopeds ...that's still manageable...
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I've been stuck-in-a-parking-lot twice since moving here. The other times were in the driveway; easier to manage, but still a pain. It's so bad here that a mechanic with a radio show said he only ever bought cheap 24-month batteries for his truck because they never lasted much more than that anyway.
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- KrispyKreme
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Alright, getting ready to order a battery for my Buddy. Manual says a 7L-BS, scooterloungeonline says 7A-BS, and the battery that is actually in my scooter is a 5L-BS(yuasa). I found a 5L-BS for 39.75 at atbatt.com, which is much cheaper than the 7A-BS (69.99). The old battery lasted about 4 years, so unless somebody knows something I don't I'm going for the Yuasa YTX5L-BS at 39.95. Anyone? Buehler....Buehler.....
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Batterysharks.com has Exide 5A-BS batteries for $11.80, 7L-BS for $18.40, and 7A-BS for $20.80. They are motorcycle/scooter batteries. The 7 battery is bigger and has more capacity, so it may hold up better in the long run. From what I can determine, the L batteries are lead acid, and A batteries are lithium.
If it was my choice to make, I'd spend the $21.00 on a 7A battery.
If it was my choice to make, I'd spend the $21.00 on a 7A battery.
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Greyscoot wrote:Batterysharks.com has Exide 5A-BS batteries for $11.80, 7L-BS for $18.40, and 7A-BS for $20.80. They are motorcycle/scooter batteries. The 7 battery is bigger and has more capacity, so it may hold up better in the long run. From what I can determine, the L batteries are lead acid, and A batteries are lithium.
If it was my choice to make, I'd spend the $21.00 on a 7A battery.
I am a bit weary of anything other than a Yuasa. Do you have any experience with this battery?
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I have used them in my cars, but not on my scooters, because I haven't had to replace one yet. I wouldn't have any issues using one. There are only about three major battery makers left, Exide being one of them. The company has been around a long time and if their batteries weren't any good, they probably would have been gone a long time ago.
- KrispyKreme
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Greyscoot wrote:I have used them in my cars, but not on my scooters, because I haven't had to replace one yet. I wouldn't have any issues using one. There are only about three major battery makers left, Exide being one of them. The company has been around a long time and if their batteries weren't any good, they probably would have been gone a long time ago.
Good enough for me. Thanks.
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- PeteH
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Krispy, you bought that scoot used, did you not? I ask because the 7ah battery is stock - I don't know how you ended up with a 5ah in there. Prior owner swapped on the cheap?KrispyKreme wrote:Alright, getting ready to order a battery for my Buddy. Manual says a 7L-BS, scooterloungeonline says 7A-BS, and the battery that is actually in my scooter is a 5L-BS(yuasa). I found a 5L-BS for 39.75 at atbatt.com, which is much cheaper than the 7A-BS (69.99). The old battery lasted about 4 years, so unless somebody knows something I don't I'm going for the Yuasa YTX5L-BS at 39.95. Anyone? Buehler....Buehler.....
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- KrispyKreme
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Nope, that was a licensed dealer, LOL. A smaller battery with less CCA's.PeteH wrote:Krispy, you bought that scoot used, did you not? I ask because the 7ah battery is stock - I don't know how you ended up with a 5ah in there. Prior owner swapped on the cheap?KrispyKreme wrote:Alright, getting ready to order a battery for my Buddy. Manual says a 7L-BS, scooterloungeonline says 7A-BS, and the battery that is actually in my scooter is a 5L-BS(yuasa). I found a 5L-BS for 39.75 at atbatt.com, which is much cheaper than the 7A-BS (69.99). The old battery lasted about 4 years, so unless somebody knows something I don't I'm going for the Yuasa YTX5L-BS at 39.95. Anyone? Buehler....Buehler.....

- KrispyKreme
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