Buddy 125 panel removal for custom paint
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- Jrottem_46
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Buddy 125 panel removal for custom paint
I am about to buy a 2013 Genuine Buddy 125. It is a great price for the amount of miles and runs perfectly. The only problem is the color... it is the bright yellow one. I was wondering how difficult it would be to remove all the panels and give it a custom matte black paint job? Is there any helpful tips you have for painting it? Are there any videos showing the panel removal? I'm pretty handy, but I have never worked on a scooter before. Any help would be greatly appreciated. [/list]
- babblefish
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The Buddy service manual might have some panel removal information in it, but if it's anything like my Blur, the panels have to come off in a particular sequence because they are interlocked with each other. Not all that difficult, really.
For paint prep, I'd make sure to wipe the panels down really well with a mild solvent, maybe some kind of paint prep solvent available from automotive paint supply stores. Don't use acetone or lacquer thinner as these may damage the plastic. Basically, you need to make sure any and all wax and/or silicones have been removed from the surface before sanding and priming. Do this before sanding because if you don't, the sanding process could drive some of the wax or silicone down into the plastic only to have it come back up during the painting process thereby ruining the paint job. So, clean, wet sand, clean again, prime, wet sand, then top coat. Use a premium "high-fill", sandable primer. Actually, if what you want is a a matt black finish, some people just use a high-fill black primer and leave it at that, but it might not be durable. And primer is permeable, though this shouldn't matter since you're painting plastic. If you really want durable, then use a regular gloss black topcoat followed by a flat clearcoat.
For paint prep, I'd make sure to wipe the panels down really well with a mild solvent, maybe some kind of paint prep solvent available from automotive paint supply stores. Don't use acetone or lacquer thinner as these may damage the plastic. Basically, you need to make sure any and all wax and/or silicones have been removed from the surface before sanding and priming. Do this before sanding because if you don't, the sanding process could drive some of the wax or silicone down into the plastic only to have it come back up during the painting process thereby ruining the paint job. So, clean, wet sand, clean again, prime, wet sand, then top coat. Use a premium "high-fill", sandable primer. Actually, if what you want is a a matt black finish, some people just use a high-fill black primer and leave it at that, but it might not be durable. And primer is permeable, though this shouldn't matter since you're painting plastic. If you really want durable, then use a regular gloss black topcoat followed by a flat clearcoat.
Some people can break a crowbar in a sandbox.
- Jrottem_46
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Thank you for your suggestions! I figured it wouldn't be to bad to take all of the panels off. Should be fairly quick to do. The only thing I am concerned with is the paint starting to chip. The sanding and primer should help with that tho.babblefish wrote:The Buddy service manual might have some panel removal information in it, but if it's anything like my Blur, the panels have to come off in a particular sequence because they are interlocked with each other. Not all that difficult, really.
For paint prep, I'd make sure to wipe the panels down really well with a mild solvent, maybe some kind of paint prep solvent available from automotive paint supply stores. Don't use acetone or lacquer thinner as these may damage the plastic. Basically, you need to make sure any and all wax and/or silicones have been removed from the surface before sanding and priming. Do this before sanding because if you don't, the sanding process could drive some of the wax or silicone down into the plastic only to have it come back up during the painting process thereby ruining the paint job. So, clean, wet sand, clean again, prime, wet sand, then top coat. Use a premium "high-fill", sandable primer. Actually, if what you want is a a matt black finish, some people just use a high-fill black primer and leave it at that, but it might not be durable. And primer is permeable, though this shouldn't matter since you're painting plastic. If you really want durable, then use a regular gloss black topcoat followed by a flat clearcoat.
- Dooglas
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Re: Buddy 125 panel removal for custom paint
Interesting. That would be my first choice, while matte black would run dead last. Give me real colors any day. Shows you how personal preferences are just that.Jrottem_46 wrote:The only problem is the color... it is the bright yellow one.
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- Jrottem_46
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Re: Buddy 125 panel removal for custom paint
I don't hate the color and can live with it for the price. They scooter is in great condition and the yellow looks good on it still.Dooglas wrote:Interesting. That would be my first choice
- Jrottem_46
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- k1dude
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I would suggest you use Plasti Dip Aerosol in black instead of paint.
http://www.amazon.com/Performix-11203-M ... plasti+dip
http://www.amazon.com/Performix-11203-M ... plasti+dip
- laurfunkle
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- Jrottem_46
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- laurfunkle
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Mine stayed sticky, so once they're off and cooled down they should just stick right back on.Jrottem_46 wrote:Is there a special way to put them back on?laurfunkle wrote:Yep, I can attest to that! Just warm 'em up a little and peel them off nice and slow.
Edit: Although that may depend on the texture you end up with with paint you decide to use.
- Jrottem_46
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- k1dude
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