Buddy 50 shuts off- it's back up and running now, thanks!

pinkbuddydude · Post by **pinkbuddydude** » Sun Nov 23, 2008 8:54 pm

Hello forum friends,
I've searched and searched for a thread that addresses this but couldn't find one. If you know of one, please direct me there. I bought a 5 month old barely used 2008 Buddy 50 from a very sweet lady; she decided she didn't want it. It had 100 miles on it when I got it. I've taken it for a spin a few times and all was working well. Then a few days ago I started it up and after letting it warm up I hopped on and took off- I got about 50 feet before the light started dimming and the engine start putt-puttering. The throttle wasn't very responsive and it seemed the more gas I gave it, the more it started to shut off, and after a few revs it did. I tried taking the gas cap off to see if there was vapor lock, didn't change anything. I tried adjusting the idle, didn't help. I changed the gear oil, as is recommended after first 100m or so, didn't help. Today the buddy started up fine, idled pretty loud and the back wheel spun pretty fast, then it calmed down to a good idle. Then when I give it a little gas, it doesn't respond much, kind of at a delay, until I give it a good turn, then it jets up and stays up for about 10-15 seconds after releasing the throttle, then it comes down and put-put it shuts off, or comes very close then back up to idle. Any suggestions?

broke · Post by **broke** » Sun Nov 23, 2008 9:03 pm

how clean is your air filter?

nissanman · Post by **nissanman** » Sun Nov 23, 2008 9:26 pm

The idle isn't the problem, the air/fuel ratio is off. It's a smaller, almost hidden adjustment screw that alters the ammount of fuel that mixes with the air in the carb. Fairly common issue on the Rattler with the 2t motor, they seem to vibrate enough to adjust themselces after some riding time.

pinkbuddydude · Post by **pinkbuddydude** » Sun Nov 23, 2008 9:34 pm

thanks for the suggestion. i went out and checked it, it look very clean. i pulled it out and noticed that it felt a tiny bit greasy, but seemed clean

pinkbuddydude · Post by **pinkbuddydude** » Sun Nov 23, 2008 9:37 pm

thanks i will try that. where do i find the air/fuel ratio adjustment screw? can i see it from above or underneath the buddy? i can't find it in the service manual

illnoise · Post by **illnoise** » Sun Nov 23, 2008 9:51 pm

My bet is, since it sounds like it sat around for a while without being ridden, that gas evaporated from the carb and clogged it up, and the idle passages and jets are clean, but the jets and passages that open up at higher revs are blocked, so when you try to rev it, it stalls out.

Get it on the center stand with the rear wheel well off the ground, start it, and let it warm up for 5 minutes. Then, VEEERY SLOWLY, accellerate until it almost cuts out, and hold it there, and every so often try to rev it a tiny bit more, sometimes that'll clean out the jets. If that doesn't work, the carb is going to need a good cleaning, it's fairly simple to do if you have any motorcycle experience, but if not, it's best left to a professional. It's a lot of small pieces that need to be disassembled, throroughly cleaned, and reassembled precisely.

Bb.

nissanman · Post by **nissanman** » Mon Nov 24, 2008 12:32 am

I know where it is on the Rattler... couldn't say for sure where it is on the Buddy. Usually it's close to the idle screw. Look for a slotted brass screw that sits about flush with the body of the carb. On the Rattler it's real tough to see from the outside of the bike but when you remove the pet carrier and look it's right there.

pinkbuddydude · Post by **pinkbuddydude** » Tue Nov 25, 2008 4:53 am

I'm confused.... Here's a photo from the manual. At first I thought the black knob was the idle adjustment screw, I turned it a little and nothing happened. After reading more on the forum I thought that the little brass screw was the idle, so I tired that. So the little brass one is the air/fuel ratio? And the silver one is the idle, or is that the black knob?

pinkbuddydude · Post by **pinkbuddydude** » Tue Nov 25, 2008 4:47 pm

hmm... i attached a photo and it appeared on the thread last night but now it's not here, i'll reattach it when i get home
EDIT- oh there it is

verdecalavera · Post by **verdecalavera** » Tue Nov 25, 2008 7:07 pm

pinkbuddydude wrote:hmm... i attached a photo and it appeared on the thread last night but now it's not here, i'll reattach it when i get home
EDIT- oh there it is

most likely you weren't logged in when you couldn't see it, you have to be logged in to see the pix.

pinkbuddydude · Post by **pinkbuddydude** » Tue Nov 25, 2008 7:24 pm

thanks for the heads up, you were right, i wasn't logged in

jfrost2 · Post by **jfrost2** » Tue Nov 25, 2008 7:50 pm

5 months no use? Idle isnt problem, neither is the fuel/air ratio screw.

Like illnoise said, the gas is old and stale, the fuel lines are clogged.

pinkbuddydude · Post by **pinkbuddydude** » Tue Nov 25, 2008 8:10 pm

jfrost2 wrote:5 months no use? Idle isnt problem, neither is the fuel/air ratio screw.

Like illnoise said, the gas is old and stale, the fuel lines are clogged.

The strange this is that when I first bought it I drove it around town and didn't have any problems with the gas; it ran fine. This problem started my 4th or 5th ride, a few days after filling up the half empty tank. Now I guess it has half old gas and half new gas. Could the problem still be old gas? If so, should I drain the tank? Thanks for your help!

jfrost2 · Post by **jfrost2** » Tue Nov 25, 2008 9:38 pm

Well then we may be wrong. If it started up and rode fine, then the fuel lines shouldnt be clogged. The air/fuel is probably the issue now. Maybe even the spark plug? Do you have a dealer close by? Would be easier to have them look at it.

pinkbuddydude · Post by **pinkbuddydude** » Tue Nov 25, 2008 9:57 pm

jfrost2 wrote:Well then we may be wrong. If it started up and rode fine, then the fuel lines shouldnt be clogged. The air/fuel is probably the issue now. Maybe even the spark plug? Do you have a dealer close by? Would be easier to have them look at it.

Unfortunately the dealer was a very small shop and it closed down due to some issue with the suplpier. There is another dealer but it's over an hour drive and I'd have to borrow a truck to haul it up there. Any suggestion on which screw adjusts the fuel air ratio? Is it one of the screws in the photo I posted?

illnoise · Post by **illnoise** » Wed Nov 26, 2008 10:59 am

I still think I'm right, ha. Sediment in the tank could have clogged it up after you'd ridden for a while, I dunno, it happens out of the blue sometimes, and the symptoms definitely just sound like a clogged-up carb more than idle adjustments.

This is a 50cc 2-stroke, right?

I dunno that specific carb, so I'm not sure which screw is which. The idle adjustment screw is generally attached to an armature that's connected to the throttle cable, so when you turn the throttle, you'll see the arm and the screw move. You can tell by looking at it how it works, the screw just controls how far the arm closes when you release the throttle (at idle), turning it one way will hold the throttle open more, turning it the other will close it more.

After being sure the bike is at operating temperature (let it idle for a few minutes before doing ANY adjustments)m you want to adjust that screw so the bike is running evenly at idle at the specified RPM.

Buddies don't have a tach, so you have to go by feel, it should be idling smoothly and in no danger of sputtering out, but also not revving too high and wasting gas. Sometimes (but not always) you can go by the back tire, if it's not spinning or just barely spinning when the bike is warmed up and idling, you should be fine.

The air screw also controls the idle, but where the throttle screw controls how much the throat is open, the air screw controls a tiny air passage that controls how much air is mixed with the gas (if I've got it right.). I'm betting that black screw is it. It's usually a screw with a spring on it, and a pointed end. Usually that screw is turned all the way in, then backed-out a specified number of turns (1.5 on an old Vespa, dunno if that's standard or what). Then fine-tuning it from there will give your engine a more regular 'heartbeat,' i.e. it'll take it from BARAaRAAaBAaRAAAAaRaaBAAa to BAAaBAAaBAAaBAAaBAAaBAAaBAAaBAAa. Yes, it's pretty subtle, you could turn it a half-turn in either direction and not hear the difference unless you were listening very closely, and if the bike wasn't warmed up, you probably wouldn't notice at all.

Note that both those adjustments affect IDLE, so they have little to do with higher throttle positions, other jets and carb passageways come into action as you accelerate, and none of those are adjustable (other than changing jet sizes, which shouldn't ever be necessary on a stock bike.) Which is why I think your problem is a clogged jet or carb passageway. If a good cleaning--and confirming that it's mounted correctly (no airleak in the manifolds)--doesn't take care of it, the next step would be to switch out the carb with a confirmed good one, maybe the carb's just damaged or warped. If that doesn't help, I'd check the engine for airleaks, but I'm betting the cleaning will fix it. It's one of the most common problems with scooters in general, and even more common on bikes that aren't ridden frequently.

Bb.

loodieboy · Post by **loodieboy** » Wed Nov 26, 2008 11:09 am

Someone correct me if this is bad advice, but perhaps a little Seafoam in the tank may clear the carb before resort to other means becomes necessary?

tunseeker1 · Post by **tunseeker1** » Wed Nov 26, 2008 12:43 pm

if the bike sat for a while the stuff in the gas may have settled in the tank. when you put new gas in it got swirled up and into the lines.

Fuel Filter?
Clean Lines?
Seafoam or cleaner?

nissanman · Post by **nissanman** » Wed Nov 26, 2008 1:00 pm

#1 in the picture is the air/fuel and #2 (the black knob) is the idle adjustment. Screw the air/fuel screw all the way in, back it out 2 1/2 turns and adjust it from there with the bike running. It's a bit of trial and error between 1/4 turn of a/f... adjust idle... 1/4 of a/f... adjust idle... but you'll eventually get it. My Rattler's carb was off from the factory, then I had to re-adjust it when I did the air filter, and a 3rd time when I re-jetted. What fun

nissanman · Post by **nissanman** » Wed Nov 26, 2008 1:01 pm

#3 is the carb drain screw... lets you drain the fuel from the carb bowl before removal

illnoise · Post by **illnoise** » Wed Nov 26, 2008 1:40 pm

loodieboy wrote:Someone correct me if this is bad advice, but perhaps a little Seafoam in the tank may clear the carb before resort to other means becomes necessary?

Eh, maybe. It's a cheap fix and worth trying, I guess.

I think Seafoam is basically carb cleaner (like Gumout), so it's what you'd be using to clean the carb anyway. And for that matter, carb cleaner is more or less just a can of gas (OK, it's not, but it's some sort of petroleum-based detergent that burns like gas). I think they recommend pouring Seafoam directly into the carb, if you're going through all that trouble, you might as well just take it apart and clean it properly (soak/spray). If you're pouring it in your tank, you're basically just doing what I recommended in my first post. The Seafoam might help loosen up the residue a little, but it's the venturi pressure (airflow) that's actually (hopefully) blowing the gunk out.

I know there are other brands of "carb and fuel injector cleaner" that get mixed with gas, who knows what kind of additives they have. I throw a bottle in my car once in a while just for voodoo good luck more than anything else, I can see how they could help prevent blockage when everything's working, but if there is an excessive level of gunk in there, I don't see them doing much good.

Bb.

pinkbuddydude · Post by **pinkbuddydude** » Wed Nov 26, 2008 3:48 pm

before I try reving it slowy to clear the jets would it help to remove the gas thats currently in the tank (half new and half old) and replace it with all new gas? i don't know how to properly drain the tank but i could probably siphon it out with a hose

Spinergy · Post by **Spinergy** » Wed Nov 26, 2008 11:24 pm

First off do start by draining out all the old gas from the tank and carb then refilling with some fresh 91+ octane. Most gas sold today is 10% ethanol and has a storage life of only 2-3 months under ideal conditions. After that the alcohol will usually have absorbed enough moisture from the atmosphere to start separating from the gas... leaving you with some waterlogged ethanol at the bottom of your tank and some low octane gas on top. I know any 2 stroke I have [from scooter to chainsaw] won't run well if at all on gas more than about 2mos old unless it's been treated with Sta-Bil.

Do not use any regular automotive fuel system/ fuel injector cleaner in a 2 stroke engine. They are very strong solvents and can wreck the oil film 2 strokes depend on. Seafoam is safe for 2 strokes and works well, other 2t specific gas additives are available from most good motorcycle shops.

jfrost2 · Post by **jfrost2** » Thu Nov 27, 2008 2:58 am

Being honest, it doesnt matter what grade you put in as long as it's 87 or higher. Putting 91 into the tank isnt going to ensure the bike will work perfect and fine. If the bike ran a few times off the old gas, then the gas isnt an issue. The fuel and air ratio is mixed up from 2 stroke vibration which is a common problem on on 2 stroke engines.

Buying 91 grade gas isnt going to magically turn the screw and fix the problem.

nissanman · Post by **nissanman** » Thu Nov 27, 2008 3:51 am

Running 91 will actually make it harder to tune because the gas will be less likely to detonate vs 87.

jmsmith802 · Post by **jmsmith802** » Sat Nov 29, 2008 1:40 am

I just got on my buddy 50 for the first time in 3-4 weeks, and it had trouble starting. It idled normally for a while, i hopped on and went a few feet, and then eventually it stalled out. It would start back up, and then it just started to putter and eventually stalled. I just kept kick starting it back up and revving it as much as possible before it stalled. I repeated that for about 10 min... Eventually I got it to the point to where I could rev it really high, and I revved the crap out of it a couple of times for a few seconds, then hopped on and road it really hard for a few min, and that seemed to fix all the problems. My conclusion was that letting the gas sit did something... I don't know what happened but ill be sure to run it at least once a week now. Maybe if you try the same thing I did you will have more luck?

jfrost2 · Post by **jfrost2** » Sat Nov 29, 2008 1:50 am

Run it only once a week? If the bike isnt being used much, gas will gum up.

jmsmith802 · Post by **jmsmith802** » Sat Nov 29, 2008 1:59 am

yeah its pretty cold and snowy here.. i was going to put some stabil in it but haven't gotten to it.. will that stop the gas from gumming up?

jfrost2 · Post by **jfrost2** » Sat Nov 29, 2008 2:18 am

As long as it runs through the system, ride the bike for 5-10 minutes. Have a full tank of gas, 1 gallon, and add 1/2 ounce of stabil.

Spinergy · Post by **Spinergy** » Sun Nov 30, 2008 11:14 am

jfrost2 wrote: Buying 91 grade gas isnt going to magically turn the screw and fix the problem.

Didn't say it was going to be a magic fix, geez. What it does give you is more breathing room when it comes to flushing out all the old gas + gives you a leg up on storage. I have a whole stable of 2-stroke equipment and am VERY familiar with what works when it come to reviving something that has sat for a while.

E10 gas [what you get at 95% of stations] which is past it's prime will drop in effective octane rating by about 3 points because the high octane ethanol component is waterlogged. Regular 87 drops you to 84, but if you're starting with 91 or better you'll still have an easily ignitable gas even after it sits for a while. A 2t scoot may fire and run on 84 but not very well... hence this thread's original question. Saying "if it ran off the old gas then gas isn't the problem" is off the mark. The sluggish and erratic performance the original poster mentions is a classic sign of bad gas in a 2t. Not that it's the only possible cause but certainly a strong contender.

nissanman wrote:Running 91 will actually make it harder to tune because the gas will be less likely to detonate vs 87.

Harder to tune with high octane gas because it resists detonation? Huh?!?When do you ever want detonation to occur? NEVER unless you're talking about a diesel engine. Running high octane gas actually gives you more of a safety margin in case your 2t is running too lean because of changes in temperature, altitude, or improper carb adjustment. Speaking of tuning, 2t's make their best power when run as lean as possible, and higher octane gas will let you run lean and with more timing advance to get that extra bit of oomph out of them.

nissanman · Post by **nissanman** » Sun Nov 30, 2008 2:14 pm

If that's the case we should all run 100 octane gas and super tune everything... with the 6:1 compression in these scooters 84 would even be considered high octane, 91 is just super-duper high in relation to that. Now in a motorcycle...

DennisD · Post by **DennisD** » Sun Nov 30, 2008 2:54 pm

Just put new gas in with the old and ride. Worked for me. Lot less trouble.

illnoise · Post by **illnoise** » Sun Nov 30, 2008 3:57 pm

Please talk about God or helmets or Iraq or something, I'd rather argue about that than octane ratings again.

No one's allowed to bring up octane ratings ever again unless they have an engineering degree and can show scientific reproducible quantifiable evidence that a Buddy (specifically) running one octane rating or another runs "better" (and I'm willing to be pretty open about the interpretation of "better").

jfrost2 · Post by **jfrost2** » Sun Nov 30, 2008 9:40 pm

I think the super smart mechanical engineers who DESIGNED the bike in the first place but a sticker that says "87 octane" on the bike for a reason. If the bike really does run better on 91, then why dont we all see a sticker that says use 91.

I think the people at PGO who are smarter than anyone on this forum have done their math years ago and see that they were right and it works.

Spinergy · Post by **Spinergy** » Mon Dec 01, 2008 12:48 am

Good god people [hey, I mentioned god

] I never said anything resembling "run high octane every day" or "buddy's run better on premium". Running a tank of 91+ is simply a workable fix if you find yourself with a tank of old gas -or- don't ride very often.

The folks at PGO obviously know their stuff but also realize they DO NOT have to deal with ethanol blended gas or freezing temps in Taiwan. Two seemingly insignificant things that can have a large impact on whether or not a scoot will start or run properly after being idle for months, particularly for a 2 stroke. If they did there would probably be mention of such issues in your handy dandy owners manual. In fact the new issues with E10 and 2 strokes are something the American engine manufacturers are just starting to address. These issues of poor performance are very real, in fact the FAA strictly prohibits the use of ethanol blended gas.

olhogrider · Post by **olhogrider** » Mon Dec 01, 2008 1:19 am

Spinergy wrote:... in fact the FAA strictly prohibits the use of ethanol blended gas.

In two strokes?

emptym · Post by **emptym** » Mon Dec 01, 2008 1:25 am

jfrost2 wrote:I think the super smart mechanical engineers who DESIGNED the bike in the first place but a sticker that says "87 octane" on the bike for a reason. If the bike really does run better on 91, then why dont we all see a sticker that says use 91.

My 2009 125 says 92 octane!!... i think.. correct me if i am reading the sticker wrong
(regardless, i only put in the cheap stuff)

LisaLisa · Post by **LisaLisa** » Mon Dec 01, 2008 1:29 am

I'm too lazy to look it up, but I think euro and sino octane ratings are calculated differntly.

edit bored:
"87 octane fuel, the "regular" gasoline in the US and Canada, is 91-92 in Europe."

rickko · Post by **rickko** » Mon Dec 01, 2008 2:04 am

LisaLisa wrote: edit bored:
"87 octane fuel, the "regular" gasoline in the US and Canada, is 91-92 in Europe."

I haven't read every post in this thread so I don't know if anyone has already mentioned this link but it might be a good reference to read:

topic3234.html

..rickko..

LisaLisa · Post by **LisaLisa** » Mon Dec 01, 2008 2:19 am

I believe we are not supposed to enter into the "octane" discussion on any thread because it is a grave threat to civility. I have my own opinions about "octane" ratings and gasoline, but I will not post them on this forum.

edit
...any more.

rickko · Post by **rickko** » Mon Dec 01, 2008 2:27 am

emptym wrote:My 2009 125 says 92 octane!!... i think.. correct me if i am reading the sticker wrong

.
You are reading it correctly but they aren't referring to US octane measurements.

Just like the sticker on the handlebar cover that says do 1st oil change at 300km and every 1000 km afterward. Is that what the dealership recommends? No, because it is easier for them to use miles instead of converting km to miles.

Isn't it obvious if you bought the Buba/Buddy in any other country you wouldn't think twice about what you are reading? And, you'd follow the recommended service intervals.

Another confirmation that the Buddy runs on regular gas is, there are many, many states where it is impossible to find 92 octane (r+m/2 method). So, how could Genuine sell the scooter in states where you can't buy it? Because 92 RON is really regular grade octane in the U.S.A.

I don't know what the compression ratio is on the 50, 125, or 150 but it would have to be over 10:1 to need premium gas. If you don't hear it knocking with regular you're OK.

From wikipedia: "...the octane shown in the United States is 4 to 5 points lower than the same fuel elsewhere: 87 octane fuel, the "regular" gasoline in the US and Canada, is 91-92 in Europe."
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating)

Even in the poorly written Owner's Manual its obvious the printer changed the service interval mileage words from kilometers to miles and left the numbers alone.

I follow the service manual as if it says km instead of miles 'cuz I know that's the way its done everywhere other than the U.S.A.

..rickko..

Spinergy · Post by **Spinergy** » Mon Dec 01, 2008 5:00 am

olhogrider wrote:
Spinergy wrote:... in fact the FAA strictly prohibits the use of ethanol blended gas.
In two strokes?

In any aircraft, 4t or 2t. Several light aircraft engines are designed for and certified to run on "automotive" gasoline, but when problems started showing up with ethanol blended gas they had to tack on some provisions. Here's a good summary of concerns direct from a Rotax Service bulletin. Yes it is directed at an ultralight 2t but the exact same concerns apply for your scooter, chain saw, outboard, or any other 2t engine:

Using auto fuel in Rotax two cycle aircraft engines:

Fuel quality in regards to the operation of a two cycle engine is becoming ever more important. Oxygenates (alcohol additives) are to be avoided, any volumes over five percent cannot be used. Testing for alcohol is the only safe way to be sure your fuel is okay for use in a Rotax engine.

The effects of alcohol in your engine are as follows:

-Alcohol will attract water, this can cause your sediment traps to flood, plug filters and restrict fuel flow.

-Alcohol also competes directly with the lubrication, and depending on your oil's ability to combat such, could cause engine damage.

-Alcohol carries water which on shutdown and storage can create corrosion on vital engine parts such as crank, main, and rod bearings as well as pins. Once corrosion has started the bearings will fail.

-Loss of octane rating is a common problem on fuel stored incorrectly which could lead directly to engine failure.

--snip--

pinkbuddydude · Post by **pinkbuddydude** » Mon Dec 01, 2008 9:31 pm

Hey guys good news: I tired some of your suggestions (new gas, seafoam, air/fuel screw adjustment, reving engine to remove build up, etc.) and my little buddy seems to be working much better now. I couldn't take it for a spin because it was raining out and I'm too new at this to trust my wet-road skills, but it definitely idles better and reved better on the kick stand, without pooping out at high rpms As soon as I get home, and if it's not raining, I'll take it for a test drive and report back.

illnoise · Post by **illnoise** » Mon Dec 01, 2008 11:16 pm

Yep, don't take it on the road until you're sure everything's OK with the throttle, that's pretty much why I crashed yesterday, I was too impatient to check it thoroughly and I ended up crashing because I was concentrating on overrevving because it was stalling at low revs. : )

Stay on a quiet road in good weather with someone to keep an eye on you and look for traffic, and test it to make sure it transitions evenly through revs and accelerates consistently, if it doesn't (revs lagging, stalling at higher revs) it can "pop into gear" (I know, it's an auto) or stall at high revs and throw you off the bike.

Bb.

pinkbuddydude · Post by **pinkbuddydude** » Wed Dec 03, 2008 1:05 am

nissanman wrote:#1 in the picture is the air/fuel and #2 (the black knob) is the idle adjustment. Screw the air/fuel screw all the way in, back it out 2 1/2 turns and adjust it from there with the bike running. :

dumb question: is 2 1/2 mean two fulls 360 degree turns and one 180 degree turn? as in, one full turn in 360 degrees?

jfrost2 · Post by **jfrost2** » Wed Dec 03, 2008 2:45 am

Yep. 2 full 360 degree turns, plus an extra 180 degrees.

pinkbuddydude · Post by **pinkbuddydude** » Thu Dec 04, 2008 1:37 am

nissanman wrote:#1 in the picture is the air/fuel and #2 (the black knob) is the idle adjustment. Screw the air/fuel screw all the way in, back it out 2 1/2 turns and adjust it from there with the bike running. It's a bit of trial and error between 1/4 turn of a/f... adjust idle... 1/4 of a/f... adjust idle... but you'll eventually get it. :

Could you give me a similar setting suggestion for the black idle knob? I warmed it up for 5 minutes, shut it off, turned the air/fuel screw all the way in and backed it out the recommended 2.5 turns, started it back up and it idled really low so i adjusted the idle knob a few times and then it shut off. I started it back up adjusted, it shut right off. Repeat. Repeat. Any suggestions for where to have the idle knob? A starting point like with the air/fuel screw?

nissanman · Post by **nissanman** » Thu Dec 04, 2008 4:44 am

Your 50 will need a different ammount of idle than my 110 did. Honestly the idle adjustment is all feel, adjust it while the bike is running. The worst that will hapen is it stalls

olhogrider · Post by **olhogrider** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 10:33 pm

When warmed up the idle should not spin the back tire while on the center stand. Just below that should be good.

pinkbuddydude · Post by **pinkbuddydude** » Fri Dec 19, 2008 1:24 am

My little buddy finally runs again. Thanks for all the help guys. Here's what I did:
Step 1- cut a hole in a box (jk, SNL reference)
Step 1- siphon out old gas
Step 2- add 1/2 gallon new gas
3- add 1/2 oz Seafoam (carb cleaner)
4- start up and let idle for 5 minutes on center stand
5- slowly turn throttle up, and up, little by little (did this for a while, "put put" at first, but eventually pretty steady "vroom")
6- hit kill switch, turned air/fuel screw all the way in, backed out 2.5 turns
7- start up, let idle, then konked out
8- start back up, make air/fuel adjustment, then she konked out again
9- repeat steps 7 and 8 half dozen times until idles smooth and doesn't turn off
10- take for spin around neighborhood at 20-30mph
11- come home and smoke pipe to celebrate

It's great to have her back up and running. Thanks for all the suggestions!

My only remaining issue is while riding at 10-15mph, the engine runs very rough/rumbly, and it vibrates the whole scoot like one of those foot massage things they sell at Brookstone. But as soon as I give it more throttle its smooths out and runs great around 18mph up to 30. So it's only when accelerating or riding at low speeds that it sounds rough. Any ideas on what this could be? As I mentioned before, it only has 150 miles on it, so I'm guessing it's just "breaking in." Should I just ride through it and wait for it to eventually smooth out?