Rattler engine problem again

MacJac · Post by **MacJac** » Tue Nov 04, 2008 3:31 am

I never had this happen, but sitting at idle at stop signs/lights, then accelerating, killed the engine 3 times on me yesterday. 2 other times all I had to do was let off the throttle, and dead.

I've already had the scooter in for a carb clean, the tank is filled only 3/4 so it's not a vapor lock issue, I've adjusted the idle screw, and I'm at wit's end now. Does anyone know what the problem could be?

Ray Knobs · Post by **Ray Knobs** » Tue Nov 04, 2008 3:35 am

I assume you have checked the other screw, the air/fuel.

Maybe something electrical, kill switch problems?

nissanman · Post by **nissanman** » Tue Nov 04, 2008 12:28 pm

+1 with Ray... wrong air/fuel mixture off the line will cause it to stall.

MacJac · Post by **MacJac** » Tue Nov 04, 2008 8:05 pm

Thanks so much. I will look into that.

pattyman5000 · Post by **pattyman5000** » Fri Jan 09, 2009 11:13 pm

I'm having the same problem with my Rattler, MacJac. I've tried all the same things you have – carb clean, adjusting the idle, not a full tank, etc.

I've noticed it seems to happen more when it's cold out. Is that my imagination?

Could you reply again if this air/fuel thing works for you?

MacJac · Post by **MacJac** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 12:02 am

The weather has been snow-filled here in Chicagoland, so I've sort of thrown the problem on the backburner for a while. I do start up the Rat every month, but never looked into what Ray said about the other knob for fuel/air mixture. Since it is very cold in my unattached garage, I have to kick-start it to get it going, and it usually starts up on the second try. One it's warmed up and I shut it down, it does start right up again with the battery.

I don't have the manual around me right now, but I should look into the air/fuel adjustment soon, since Spring will be here before we know it.

Any help here Ray of where the air/fuel adjustment is, that would be great.
I'll look into it also. And thanks for the reminder!!!

Ray Knobs · Post by **Ray Knobs** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 1:39 am

It's a tiny screw, you have to pull the seat out to find it.

Don't bother with it now. It won't be adjusted right in the spring. Temp effects air density.

Mine is tucked away for now, i prefer 600cc to 110 when it's cold out

sorry, that's not me giving you the bird

MacJac · Post by **MacJac** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 3:25 am

Thanks Ray - and very nice winter toys you have there!

MotoSteve · Post by **MotoSteve** » Sun Jan 11, 2009 4:12 am

I had the same problem. On a cold start, the bike would bog down and stall at stoplights. This was with the Pima pipe and the rest stock.

As the air gets colder, it gets denser and your mixture gets leaner. Needs more fuel.

My mechanic installed a larger main jet and adjusted the fuel/air mix screw. Problem solved. It no longer stalls.

MacJac · Post by **MacJac** » Sun Feb 08, 2009 4:50 am

Thanks for the advice Ray. I couldn't wait for spring. It was 55 degrees around Chicago today. I took the seat off and adjusted the fuel/air screw 1/8 turn, popped the seat back in with screws sitting on my workbench, hopped on and held a steady throttle at 35 mph, and at the end of my block when I slowed to idle the engine cut. This time I was able to play with the throttle until it caught, so I went back to my garage, repeated the process again, another 1/8 turn, and this time the ride was fine.

Ray Knobs · Post by **Ray Knobs** » Wed Mar 11, 2009 12:38 pm

I am glad it worked out for ya. Since winter is over here the sled has been parked and i pulled out the Rat on Saturday. It started up on the 2nd kick and ran like a champ on last years gas.

nissanman · Post by **nissanman** » Thu Mar 12, 2009 2:02 am

For those of us in areas with climates that change, a slightly modified bike will require periodic air/fuel adjustments. Just part of the deal. Do what I did and drill a hole over the top of the adjustment screw (just big enough to fit the screwdriver through). Now adjusting the carb only requires opening the pet carrier and not the full removal of the dang thing. Saves lots of hassle and time

Ray Knobs · Post by **Ray Knobs** » Thu Mar 12, 2009 2:41 pm

It's only four bolts??

Now when you fill the thing with ice and beer all the melt will drop on your carb.

nissanman · Post by **nissanman** » Thu Mar 12, 2009 5:59 pm

SIX bolts off and on, then test ride, then SIX bolts off and on repeat as necessary. Don't forget the screw that attaches the fender liner to the bottom of the seat bucket too. There's already 3 small holes in the bottom as drain holes, now I have a 4th that's dual purpose. I won't ride the bike with an un-bolted seat it just doesn't seem safe to me. ATSATT (all the seat all the time). If I'm running ice and beer around I'll bust out the duct tape for the occasion

MacJac · Post by **MacJac** » Fri Mar 13, 2009 3:06 am

Great idea about drilling a hole above the adjustment screw. Saves a ton of time not having to take those bolts out. I only drove it with the seat bolts out up and down my block. Since I've caught a little air going over some questionable areas of railroad track before, I couldn't imagine the seat being loose after doing that. As for beer hauling, just say hello to a Hefty lawn bag cut down to fit.

MacJac · Post by **MacJac** » Fri Mar 13, 2009 3:20 am

Mine started right up on last years gas and a little Stabil. My mechanic (and friend) says 2-strokes do not need Stabil. Today it was below freezing. Only 25. 2 kicks was all it took.

Ray Knobs · Post by **Ray Knobs** » Fri Mar 13, 2009 6:59 pm

MacJac wrote:My mechanic (and friend) says 2-strokes do not need Stabil.

lol

Don't let that guy work on your stuff.

MacJac · Post by **MacJac** » Fri Mar 13, 2009 7:44 pm

I was thinking the same thing Ray. Made no sense to me.

nissanman · Post by **nissanman** » Fri Mar 13, 2009 10:55 pm

Maybe he's assuming a 12 month useage scheduele for all two stroke vehicles?