BLUR 200 CVT
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BLUR 200 CVT
I CLEAN THE CVT OF BLUR 200
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- CVT COVER
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- INSIDE
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- beelzebubbles
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- Location: SF, CA
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Yes, I used to have 150 but it dead March 06 because the shaft of front pulley (variator) broken and fall off
and I sold it as junk $ 600 to dealer with 29000 km maileage
I got 200 at end of March 07 cost me $2606
150 top speed (new) 89km after break in 115km (throttle full up for long time)
200 top speed - most people stop at 120 km (throttle even not all way down about 7/8)
initial acceleration is same general 125 like buddy 125 but from 40km to 110 km is much faster close to 250 class scooter
and I sold it as junk $ 600 to dealer with 29000 km maileage
I got 200 at end of March 07 cost me $2606
150 top speed (new) 89km after break in 115km (throttle full up for long time)
200 top speed - most people stop at 120 km (throttle even not all way down about 7/8)
initial acceleration is same general 125 like buddy 125 but from 40km to 110 km is much faster close to 250 class scooter
- beelzebubbles
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Man, that is awesome. I hope they get the 200 here in USA soon (maybe next year). It's not too much heavier than 150, right? It's too bad there is no 190cc kit for 150 Blur, like they have for Vespa ET4.
How did your 150's front pulley shaft get broken off? Was that normal wear and tear from heavy use, or an accident?
How did your 150's front pulley shaft get broken off? Was that normal wear and tear from heavy use, or an accident?
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it's commonly seen in first production run (before 2005) my one 150 2V was Dec 04
how did this happen, some said that cause by bad lubrication. some
suspect engine "overspeed " - that was what i did - full throttle to bottom
then retard a little, full throttle to bottom again. sometime can reach
125km on flat ground , 130 km down hill meter speed.
PGO SHOULD ALREADY CORRECT THIS PROBLEM, NO ONE HEARD THIS
HAPPEN AGAIN TO THE MID 05 MODEL 150 4V PRODUCTION AND
THEREAFTER . THUS, IT IS UNLIKELY TO HAPPEN ON YOURS.
CHECK CVT OPEN IT AND CLEAN THE DUST EVERY 10000 KM IF YOU ARE
HEAVY USER!
how did this happen, some said that cause by bad lubrication. some
suspect engine "overspeed " - that was what i did - full throttle to bottom
then retard a little, full throttle to bottom again. sometime can reach
125km on flat ground , 130 km down hill meter speed.
PGO SHOULD ALREADY CORRECT THIS PROBLEM, NO ONE HEARD THIS
HAPPEN AGAIN TO THE MID 05 MODEL 150 4V PRODUCTION AND
THEREAFTER . THUS, IT IS UNLIKELY TO HAPPEN ON YOURS.
CHECK CVT OPEN IT AND CLEAN THE DUST EVERY 10000 KM IF YOU ARE
HEAVY USER!
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- Joined: Thu Jun 21, 2007 2:45 pm
- Location: Brisbane, Australia
Cylinder kits/big bore kits
Hi from Oz...
The G-Max/Blur engine is a Honda GY6 clone...
So a GY6 big bore kit should fit no problems. I however do not know if there are different gudgeon pin (wrist pin) sizes, or or machining is required to allow certain cylinder kits to fit.
I just blew my motor today - 1900km (1190 miles) on the dial. Engine oil spewing forth from the exhaust pipes can't be good! The spark plug is fouled too...
The G-Max/Blur engine is a Honda GY6 clone...
So a GY6 big bore kit should fit no problems. I however do not know if there are different gudgeon pin (wrist pin) sizes, or or machining is required to allow certain cylinder kits to fit.
I just blew my motor today - 1900km (1190 miles) on the dial. Engine oil spewing forth from the exhaust pipes can't be good! The spark plug is fouled too...
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4v 61 cylinder (169c.c.) with valve, ckv-30 cabrator, air filter, els. whole set is costs ABOUT USD$ 636 . bore is around $ 250
I HEARD 200 cc MODEL CAN UPGRADE TO 250 cc with bore kit $ 454
some people just UPGRADE the CVT (weight and clutch) and mess up
the engine
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I HEARD 200 cc MODEL CAN UPGRADE TO 250 cc with bore kit $ 454
some people just UPGRADE the CVT (weight and clutch) and mess up
the engine
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- BORE
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- 4v 61 cylinder (169c.c.)
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- illnoise
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Speaking of tech questions, I was getting a little bit of oil spatter on the inside rim of my rear wheel. It was hard to tell if it was coming from the plug (which was a hair loose) or the hub, I sure hope it wasn't the hub. POC checked the oil and said it seemed high (though it was hot and we were by the side of the road so it wasn't very scientific) but I'm hoping it was just spurting through the drain plug. The funny part is that Scooterworks (the scooter shop next door to Genuine's office, they're more or less the same company) changed my oil, so they might have put too much in and/or not tightened the plug enough. It's tight now and seems to be OK, but I'm keeping an eye on it.
From reading the buddy list, there's a lot we could be learning from PGO and Taiwanese riders. Genuine's pretty on top of things, but it's nice to have some long-time riders chipping in, too. From years of riding Vintage Vespas, I know that the manual isn't always right, and there are a lot of good tips that never get written down. (On the other hand there's plenty of bad advice out there, too, much of it coming from me, ha).
Bryan
From reading the buddy list, there's a lot we could be learning from PGO and Taiwanese riders. Genuine's pretty on top of things, but it's nice to have some long-time riders chipping in, too. From years of riding Vintage Vespas, I know that the manual isn't always right, and there are a lot of good tips that never get written down. (On the other hand there's plenty of bad advice out there, too, much of it coming from me, ha).
Bryan
2strokebuzz: When news breaks, we put it under a tarp in the garage.
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too much gear (CVT )oil - TOOTH PASTE TUBE OIL = IT LEAKS FROM UNDER CVT - REAR PULLY SHAFT SEAL
YOU SHOULD USE 130 CC VOLUME TUBE (FOR 125CC SCOOTER)
ONCE I ADD KYMCO BRAND gear (CVT )oil -150CC VOLUME , IT HEAVEY
SEEP LIKE HELL. LOT OF OIL STAIN ON REAR WEEL
I SEEN THIS HAPPEN ON ALL, KYMCO, SYM , YAT (YAMAHA TAIWAN)
IT IS NOT A MAJOR FAULT! ADD CORRECT VOLUME, THE LEAK WILL STOP
YOU SHOULD USE 130 CC VOLUME TUBE (FOR 125CC SCOOTER)
ONCE I ADD KYMCO BRAND gear (CVT )oil -150CC VOLUME , IT HEAVEY
SEEP LIKE HELL. LOT OF OIL STAIN ON REAR WEEL
I SEEN THIS HAPPEN ON ALL, KYMCO, SYM , YAT (YAMAHA TAIWAN)
IT IS NOT A MAJOR FAULT! ADD CORRECT VOLUME, THE LEAK WILL STOP
- beelzebubbles
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- Location: SF, CA
Thanks for the tip on the 169cc kit. It's good to know there are possibilities for 150cc. I wish it was a little bigger, if only it was closer to like 190cc then I would definitely try to get one from Taiwan (although I guess then it's bye-bye to the warranty).
I was just reading an issue of Twist 'N' Go magazine (from England) and they were reviewing G-Maxes in 50cc, 125cc and 250cc classes. The review for 125cc was of course very much like our 150cc.
In Taiwan, do they have the 250cc G-Max? From the description in the magazine it is awesome. It doesn't even weigh that much more than the 150cc, but of course much more powerful. Man, I hope they bring those here to USA, I would get one right away!
I was just reading an issue of Twist 'N' Go magazine (from England) and they were reviewing G-Maxes in 50cc, 125cc and 250cc classes. The review for 125cc was of course very much like our 150cc.
In Taiwan, do they have the 250cc G-Max? From the description in the magazine it is awesome. It doesn't even weigh that much more than the 150cc, but of course much more powerful. Man, I hope they bring those here to USA, I would get one right away!

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the 250 cc water cool engine is from KYMCO, 250 is not aviavle in Taiwan too.
KYMCO BET & WIN and Grand Vista aslo sell in the US with this 250
engine, I use to have a Grand Vista 250 before G-max 150. this 250
engine is good, LOW MAINTAINCE 18.7 HP (someone said it is a HONDA ENGINE - kymco used to be honda in taiwan )
I DO NOT KNOW ANYONE SELL BORE KIT IN THE US, BUT SOME
TAIWAN
DISSCUSION FORUMS SAID THAT THERE SOME CHINA MADE CHEAP
BORE ON MAKET ONLY GOOD FOR 3000 -5000 KM, BEWARE OF THIS
KYMCO BET & WIN and Grand Vista aslo sell in the US with this 250
engine, I use to have a Grand Vista 250 before G-max 150. this 250
engine is good, LOW MAINTAINCE 18.7 HP (someone said it is a HONDA ENGINE - kymco used to be honda in taiwan )
I DO NOT KNOW ANYONE SELL BORE KIT IN THE US, BUT SOME
TAIWAN
DISSCUSION FORUMS SAID THAT THERE SOME CHINA MADE CHEAP
BORE ON MAKET ONLY GOOD FOR 3000 -5000 KM, BEWARE OF THIS
- BlueMark
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- Joined: Mon Oct 30, 2006 2:29 am
- Location: Toledo, OH
My Blur broke down yesterday, kind of, about one half mile from home. It's the first real problem I've had other than a defective battery. The engine bogged down and began losing power until it eventually quit. And a terrible noise occurred from underneath somewhere. After a little pushing and cooling off it restarted and I was able to ride slowly home, with noise.illnoise wrote:Speaking of tech questions, I was getting a little bit of oil spatter on the inside rim of my rear wheel. It was hard to tell if it was coming from the plug (which was a hair loose) or the hub, I sure hope it wasn't the hub.
Bryan
I was convinced I had a shredded, but not broken CVT belt. Today I opened it up and the belt looked fine, but the entire inside of the CVT housing had a layer of greasy dark black dust. I can only assume it is pulverized carbon/rubber from the belt. That also solved the mystery of the 'oil stains' on my rear wheel. It isn't oil, it is the black dust blowing out the serpentine vent at the back of the CVT housing.
I don't have the tools to open up the Variator, but I'm guessing the clutch and possibly the roller bearings are shot. I'm over 5000 BDU's now, so close enough that I should probably replace the belt, clutch pads and rollers anyhow. Hope that is all.
If my guesses are correct, anyone who is getting an accumulation of black grit on the rear wheel that looks like the result of an oil leak should probably have the CVT checked. Especially if you are a big guy like me who is essentially always riding the equivalent of two up.
Looks like I'm stuck with 4 wheels for a while.
-Mark
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- CVT housing with rear vent highlighted
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- BlueMark
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YepErlkonig wrote:dust is from the clutch or front pully, it is not a big deal.
remove the fornt variator and check the output shaft , see if the output
shaft seal leaking, noise could be an engine problem.
Good news, I got an impact wrench, took the CVT completely apart. All is well - lots of the black dust everywhere, including inside the variator, but nothing appears damaged (I did replace the roller weights, I noticed a few minor flat spots).
Bad news - gotta be the engine.
The engine starts right up. It still holds all of its fluids - no oil loss. But something is definitely clanking around inside. Thank God for Warranties.
-Mark
- BlueMark
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That was almost exactly correct. The CVT is fine. After tearing down the engine the dealer found that there was 1/2 inch of play in the output shaft, where there should be less than a thousandth. My scooter has been well maintained and always lubricated - it has never lost any oil volume.Erlkonig wrote: remove the fornt variator and check the output shaft , see if the output
shaft seal leaking, noise could be an engine problem.
Apparently there is another Blur in Columbus which may have the same issue and Chicago is consulting with Taiwan to see if it is a known manufacturing issue.
Meanwhile I'm waiting on parts and putting way too much gas into my car.
-Mark, still riding 4 wheels.
- bicyclerider
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- Location: Columbus, OH - my other 2 wheels require pedaling
- Tygron01
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- Location: Pretoria, South Africa
BLUR 200 Drive Belt
Hi guys,
Can anyone tell me what length the drive belt on the 200 is? I need to replace but if the length of belt is wrong it wont last.
I will really appreciate if someone can give me the sizes, please?
Thanks
Can anyone tell me what length the drive belt on the 200 is? I need to replace but if the length of belt is wrong it wont last.
I will really appreciate if someone can give me the sizes, please?
Thanks
- Lostmycage
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I don't know the size of the 200cc's belt size off hand.
If it's the stock belt (even if it's not) it should be written on the belt that's in there now. You'll be able to see it without having to take the variator or clutch out. Just take off the 8mm bolts (8-9 of them) and you should be able to check the size. You might have to wipe off the layer of belt dust to be able to read it.
Let us know the size if you find out. It's something I've been curious about for a while now.
If it's the stock belt (even if it's not) it should be written on the belt that's in there now. You'll be able to see it without having to take the variator or clutch out. Just take off the 8mm bolts (8-9 of them) and you should be able to check the size. You might have to wipe off the layer of belt dust to be able to read it.
Let us know the size if you find out. It's something I've been curious about for a while now.
Check out
Scoot Richmond's new site: My awesome local shop.

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g-max 200 cvt belt size is 847*19*30
field report I that heard someone broke it in around 19000 km (manufacturer limit is 20000 KM) then I heard other kid said his only good for 14000 km and some hardcore rider said only 6600 km.I replace it close to 15000 km because I found some cracks on it. so depend on how hard you did.
150 model belt life is up to 30000 km.
g-max 220 efi may roll out at May 09 or end of 09, PGO said in local media
field report I that heard someone broke it in around 19000 km (manufacturer limit is 20000 KM) then I heard other kid said his only good for 14000 km and some hardcore rider said only 6600 km.I replace it close to 15000 km because I found some cracks on it. so depend on how hard you did.
150 model belt life is up to 30000 km.
g-max 220 efi may roll out at May 09 or end of 09, PGO said in local media
- Tygron01
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- Location: Pretoria, South Africa
Thanks Erlkonig,
The OEM belts only show a part number, but mine snapped on 12500 km and when I opened it, it was a beautiful ball of wool, could not see anything.
I went to Kawasaki dealer today and he gave me size of 847*19*30 aswell.
I can get an aftermarket Johnway belt 843*20*30 or possibly a 847*20*30 tomorrow. Do you think it will make a difference if it is 843 long instead of 847?
Thanks.
The OEM belts only show a part number, but mine snapped on 12500 km and when I opened it, it was a beautiful ball of wool, could not see anything.
I went to Kawasaki dealer today and he gave me size of 847*19*30 aswell.
I can get an aftermarket Johnway belt 843*20*30 or possibly a 847*20*30 tomorrow. Do you think it will make a difference if it is 843 long instead of 847?
Thanks.
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- Location: kaoshiung, Taiwan
Do not use shorter belt, I heard a kid did that said only take 2500 km to break it.
If you upgrade the CVT or change orginal setting better to replace every 10000 km
the problem of 200 model is its CVT, it is too big and heavy cause slow acceleration, left banking contacting ground, and very hot (short belt life), someone here is improved the acceleration by shaving weight of rotating generator but my younger brother said this will cause generator produce not enough electricity and finally messy up whole electrical system (battery, wire,CDI, everythings).
as i knew PGO will correct this problem on 220 model but do not know they want to change CVT to newer model or just resetting the old one.
If you upgrade the CVT or change orginal setting better to replace every 10000 km
the problem of 200 model is its CVT, it is too big and heavy cause slow acceleration, left banking contacting ground, and very hot (short belt life), someone here is improved the acceleration by shaving weight of rotating generator but my younger brother said this will cause generator produce not enough electricity and finally messy up whole electrical system (battery, wire,CDI, everythings).
as i knew PGO will correct this problem on 220 model but do not know they want to change CVT to newer model or just resetting the old one.
- Tygron01
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- Location: Pretoria, South Africa