4T rear rack

carlmilo · Post by **carlmilo** » Mon Jun 20, 2011 2:16 pm

will a 2T Stella Rack work on a New 4T, looking at one on scooterworks?

jimmbomb · Post by **jimmbomb** » Mon Jun 20, 2011 2:43 pm

***Yes* ***
BUT.. it must be modified first.
You have to cut off about 3 inches of the bracket that goes under the seat. The 2t rack retails for 139 @ the dealer..plus your sales tax..
If you order a 4t rack from Scooterworks ... its 152... NO tax.... and free shipping.
And you'll get it in 2 days time..
They have ultra fast shipping.
Good luck

PeteH · Post by **PeteH** » Mon Jun 20, 2011 3:53 pm

topic18499.html#232815

Jimm, is that rack mod holding up for you?

jimmbomb · Post by **jimmbomb** » Mon Jun 20, 2011 4:17 pm

Pete.
.I DID NOT get the 2t rack.
The dealer would not discount their open loose rack for me & wanted full retail$,
so I passed on it. considering with the sales tax issue.
I opted for the 4t rack from scooterworks... free ship..
all for about the same price & I got a brand new un-opened rack that fit without modding it..
I mean why pay the same amount for an already opened bare rack that i would STILL HAVE to modify..
Scooterworks has such fast shipping, that this was the best decision for me....
thanks for asking!

PeteH · Post by **PeteH** » Mon Jun 20, 2011 5:11 pm

Ah, makes sense. I thought you had gone with the 2T rack. Glad the 4T is working out. Still hoping to see the new ride in person!!!!

Silver Streak · Post by **Silver Streak** » Mon Jun 20, 2011 5:53 pm

PeteH wrote:topic18499.html#232815

Jimm, is that rack mod holding up for you?

That was me. It's holding up fine. No reason why it wouldn't, except for the potential for rust at the cuts and newly drilled holes (which hasn't happened as I lacquered them and they are protected from the rain by the seat).

The only reason I modded a 2T rack was because I had one.

PeteH · Post by **PeteH** » Mon Jun 20, 2011 6:30 pm

I had pointed Jimm to Dave's writeup on a local forum.

monkeykat · Post by **monkeykat** » Tue Aug 09, 2011 4:42 am

Apologies for dredging up an old issue, but I just installed my 4T rack and thought it was appropriate to get responses from some of you.

I feel like I want some sort of rubber between the rack and the body. Have any of you done this?

Also, when re-inserting the seat lock post, I found that the cup style washer (I'm not sure of its real function) prevented the post from reaching the screw threading. If anyone knows the importance of the cupped washed, I will either take out another washer or try harder to get it screwed in.

But this issue brings up another...if I start adding rubber to prevent body scratches, getting these screws in is going to be even harder...

Silver Streak · Post by **Silver Streak** » Tue Aug 09, 2011 5:06 pm

monkeykat wrote:Apologies for dredging up an old issue, but I just installed my 4T rack and thought it was appropriate to get responses from some of you.

I feel like I want some sort of rubber between the rack and the body. Have any of you done this?

Also, when re-inserting the seat lock post, I found that the cup style washer (I'm not sure of its real function) prevented the post from reaching the screw threading. If anyone knows the importance of the cupped washed, I will either take out another washer or try harder to get it screwed in.

But this issue brings up another...if I start adding rubber to prevent body scratches, getting these screws in is going to be even harder...

Not sure, but I think the cupped washer is there to support the seat pan and prevent it from dropping too low over the latching post. I've seen latching posts with longer threads (just for this purpose) on one of the big websites (probably Motorsports or ScooterWorks).

I don't have rubber under mine, but a thin sheet would probably work OK. Too thick, and it may hold the seat up too high. Just substitute 5mm longer screws for the other, too-short screws.