NEED HELP -- LEFT OVER PART

smarkum · Post by **smarkum** » Sun Jun 10, 2012 5:39 pm

Did oil change and gear oil change. Drained engine oil from both sides -- the one with the screen and spring as well as the one on the other side near the oil filter. Oh yes, changed the oil filter too. Got it all done with the wonderful tutorial here on MB; but, discovered that I had an aluminum washer left over! D'OH. It was in the bottom of the oil drain pan . . . I don't know which screw it came from . . . either two of the engine oil drains or the gear oil change. i've got no leaks so I'm wondering if I need to worry and get it put back on ASAP , or if it can wait until next change. . . and if you guys have any idea where it is supposed to go, that would be great. Would like to get the worry about of my head about it. . .

Here is the washer . . .

Help is appreciated!

spr0k3t · Post by **spr0k3t** » Sun Jun 10, 2012 6:03 pm

Just checked the 125 service manual... it's not either of the oil filters. I guessing it would be the gear oil drain, I just can't confirm it.

smarkum · Post by **smarkum** » Sun Jun 10, 2012 6:08 pm

I couldn't find it in the service manual either . . . argh. Thanks for looking!

smarkum · Post by **smarkum** » Sun Jun 10, 2012 7:21 pm

do you guys think there is any worry running without it as long as no leaks?

issue31 · Post by **issue31** » Sun Jun 10, 2012 7:27 pm

looks like the washer that seals the main drain. It goes between the bolt and the oil drain hole. I had the same thing happen to me once. The hole in the washer looks to big for the tranie drain. Save your oil and use it again. It's fun learning isn't it!

smarkum · Post by **smarkum** » Sun Jun 10, 2012 7:31 pm

issue31 wrote: looks like the washer that seals the main drain. It goes between the bolt and the oil drain hole. I had the same thing happen to me once. The hole in the washer looks to big for the tranie drain. Save your oil and use it again. It's fun learning isn't it!

It would be a LOT funner if it were not so HOT outside

So I guess you're saying . . . undo the main bolt and put it in there now instead of next time . . . that's what I was afraid of. . .

Tocsik · Post by **Tocsik** » Sun Jun 10, 2012 10:39 pm

Those aluminum washers are "crush" washers and you should probably put it back on.
Sorry!

smarkum · Post by **smarkum** » Sun Jun 10, 2012 11:59 pm

Tocsik wrote:Those aluminum washers are "crush" washers and you should probably put it back on.
Sorry!

Thanks Tocsik . . . I did. It wasn't too bad. I initially removed the gear oil bolt but before I got it all the way off I saw that it has a much smaller washer in there! So, it got tightened back up with no gear oil loss!
So, it did belong on the drivers side engine oil drain bolt. I lost very little engine oil - caught it in a little dish, and back into the oil compartment it went. Easy peasy. Thank goodness.

Good lesson learned. I appreciate the info! And boy did she run fast and smooth after the oil changes!

spr0k3t · Post by **spr0k3t** » Mon Jun 11, 2012 12:09 am

Good to know... I didn't see any washers in the service manual for the oil filter. I wonder if there are any other discrepancies not covered.

scudder · Post by **scudder** » Mon Jun 11, 2012 10:17 am

The only metal washer I am aware of on the 125, as far as oil draining goes, is on the gear oil bolt. The main oil drain and the filter are both sealed with o-rings....I am just curious if maybe the design has changed over the years or what, my buddy is a 2011 or 12...not sure.

smarkum · Post by **smarkum** » Mon Jun 11, 2012 10:51 am

Mine is a 2009 - 125. There was a smaller metal washer on the gear oil. Then the larger aluminum washer which I put on the msecond oil drain. The other oil drain had a rubber ring (as I recall) and so much other stuff in there with the spring and strainer thing. . . And, the strainer was totally clean. And when I watched the dealer do my first oil change with was totally clean that time too. SO, I'm considering just using that second drain for future oil changes. I've read a lot where the drain with the strainer can get really jacked up for a lot of reasons. It seems to minimize areas I could screw something up is a plus! And the second oil drain is tough as nails! I was Lefty Loosie the wrong way on that one and it did get tighter, with all of my weight behind it, but then I figured out what I was doing wrong. So I then did LEfty Loosie for real and it worked MUCH better. But everything was fine. It is strong metal right there, so no worries of breaking anything. (except for loosing the washer).

I did not find the oil change to be messy and icky at all. I did not get oil all over the bottom of the scoot. and the stand was not in the way. I did not have to use funnels or any other parts. I just used short pans of various sorts to catch the oil and went on my way. I did use a turkey baster to put the gear oil back in as I measured it. The turkey baster has both 5ml incriments on it, so it was perfect for measuring the gear oil. I did use a funnel to get the engine oil in . . . but piece of cake there. I wish the dipstick were easier to read. It was difficult for me to see the clean oil on the white dipstick. I'm wondering if I color the dipstick (I'm thinking Sharpie here) if that would help with being able to see the oil level easier? I don't have the best eyes in the world and I do have difficulty with depth perception and colors. I usually have my 10 yo double check with her good eyes. She is my go to for reading tiny serial numbers! Do you guys think it would help at all to color the dipstick?

All in all, after I found the 21mm socket (which required 2 trips to the hardware store - first trip to get the large socket, and the second trip to get the adapter so it would fit my 3/8" torque wrench. D'OH.

it was an easy job and was quick. I would not hesitate to recommend folks do it on their own with the help of MB of course

The gear oil had not been changed and looked still beautiful (red in color?) and I didn't see anything weird in there at all. I'm not sure it will need changing as often as I've read. The engine oil however was VERY dark. I think I waited too long just based on how dark the oil was. So, I will do it again in 1,000 and then see as I just switched to Synthetic. If it is just as dark though, then I may consider doing them more often. But, I cannot see changing that oil filter every time. Does that really need to be done each time. I don't know a thing about oil filters so I don't have any reference for that, other than what I've read here.

Sorry for babbling

you guys have been a lot of help and comfort! I appreciate that.