2005 Stella won't start

Wrinkle249 · Post by **Wrinkle249** » Fri Aug 17, 2012 3:49 am

I just got my sister-in-laws' 2005 Stella 2T with only 61 miles on it. I siphoned out the gas, then filled it, added 2t oil, cleaned the spark plug, etc. The batt won't hold much of a charge but on the third kick start it fired up! I let it run for about 30 seconds then eased off the throttle because the smoke was thick (assuming it was burning off some old gas) and there was a puddle under the exhaust pipe. I figured it would start back up again but no dice.

I cleaned the jets in the carb. (idle and main and the carb looks brand new) There was a little oil in the bottom of the carb but again looked new. The choke lever won't pull out the choke easily, I had to pull from inside the carb.

I followed directions I found in another forum which was basically turning the key off, the gas to off, pulled the plug and kicked the starter a few times to clear out any gas. Put it all back and nothing. I did see spark from the plug and smelled a little gas on it when I pulled it back out. I did not get a huge smell of gas from the cylinder when I pulled the plug. If I was flooding it shouldn't that be the case?

Would the little reminance of old gas clog the fuel lines? I am far from proficient with motors, but I can follow directions if anybody has any ideas.

The battery holds a little charge now so I can use the starter. Clutch in, anything else? Again I just got it yesterday...

Thank you for any help.

BuddyRaton · Post by **BuddyRaton** » Fri Aug 17, 2012 1:34 pm

You probably need to rebuild the carb. Sounds intimidating but there are plenty of threads with instructions. Take it all the way apart, replace the needle and float (I think that is probably the trouble spot), and make sure the air box is tight.

PeteH · Post by **PeteH** » Fri Aug 17, 2012 1:55 pm

Yep, if the jets are clean and you've got spark, I'd look to the float valve next. I always managed to gum them up when I was young(er) and stupid and didn't winterize my street bike.

Wrinkle249 · Post by **Wrinkle249** » Fri Aug 17, 2012 3:01 pm

Are there 2 or 3 jets in the carb? I thought there was a main and an idle. Just watched a carb rebuild video and it showed 3? The third being a starter jet?

Tierney · Post by **Tierney** » Fri Aug 17, 2012 4:31 pm

I hope you did not put oil in the gas, but put it in the oil tank.

JohnKiniston · Post by **JohnKiniston** » Fri Aug 17, 2012 5:47 pm

This may sound like a Dumb question but here it is:

Did you make sure the gas is on? Unlike more modern scooters Stella's have a manual petcock.

Try both the Main and Reserve setting, it could be one of the two pickups in the tank is clogged.

If your not getting any dampness on the plug try disconnecting the fuel line at the carburetor with the petcock off, then briefly turn it on and verify that your getting fuel to the carb still.

Wrinkle249 · Post by **Wrinkle249** » Fri Aug 17, 2012 6:10 pm

It started, but won't stay on with the choke in and as soon an I turn the throttle it dies.

Thank you guys for the replies.

I did not put oil in the gas tank I put it in the oil tank. I did notice that the 2T oil I bought was red and the oil in the tank was blue. I looked it up and does not seem to be an issue.

The gas was on although I followed another procedure to dump the gas in the cylinder by turning off the gas taking out the plug etc. then turned it back on.

I removed the carb as suggested to check out the float. The float looked fine and all I did was wipe out the bowl.

I took out the plug again cleaned it with a wire brush and gas put it all back together, and after cranking it a bunch it started, but holy smoke batman! I assume it is burning off the old stuff?

Again it stays on for a long time with the choke out. I only ran it for a few minutes because of the smoke. Should I just let it go and run it until my neighbors complain to burn off the old stuff?

I am stoked on the outcome so far.... thoughts?

Robbie · Post by **Robbie** » Sat Aug 18, 2012 1:53 am

The choke is actually a third jet....manually controlled, also known as the enrichening circuit.
You are describing the classic example of jets plugged with dried out fuel residue.
By pulling the 'choke' you are providing a fuel source......when you push it in, turning the circuit off, it is essentially running out of fuel.

Time to pull the jets and rod em out......followed by compressed air and a bit of carb cleaner through all the passageways.

Good luck,

Rob

Wrinkle249 · Post by **Wrinkle249** » Sat Aug 18, 2012 3:58 am

Thanks Rob.

I pulled both jets again ran wire through them and they look new. With choke out an idling fine, I ease on the throttle and it dies with the choke still out.

Would that be too much air with no gas? I will use carb cleaner on the jets and blow them out again....

double-o-soul · Post by **double-o-soul** » Sat Aug 18, 2012 4:36 am

please someone put me in my place if I'm wrong, but from what little I've learned there's a few points I think are relevant:

1. don't stick wires into the jets?
I've read on multiple forums from multiple scooterheads that the material is very soft and you should only blast air or carb cleaner through them.

2. running with the choke out points to air leak right?
I would take the airbox lid off and while the engine is idling, spot spray carb cleaner at different parts (like the circular oil injection parts towards the bottom front of the airbox). if the idle sound changes, you might have found a leak. recently one morning my bike wouldnt idle without the choke out, i sprayed around and found the oil injection part was loose, torqued down the screws a tad, and voila! she started purring again. some of what you said (oil in the carb maybe just blowback but could also be oil leaking)

3. what color is the smoke when it's idling with the choke out?

4. what does the spark plug look like when you say it's rich? is it black?

5. while the bike is idling, jiggle the wires and connectors around the bike, does the idle change when you do this? if so, it could be an electrical problem making it seem like there's another issue.

double-o-soul · Post by **double-o-soul** » Sat Aug 18, 2012 4:38 am

oh also:
when you took apart and rebuilt the carb, did you inspect the gaskets or replace them? did you remember not to torque down the carb too much? you can warp it and have an air leak i think

Wrinkle249 · Post by **Wrinkle249** » Sat Aug 18, 2012 5:42 am

Thanks for the reply. As stated in the original post I am very new to this and I may be a complete idiot. When doing all of the I had the airbox top off do I could mess with the clutch... Is that the issue?

Top off air filter out...???

double-o-soul · Post by **double-o-soul** » Sat Aug 18, 2012 5:50 am

not sure what you mean? go ahead and take the air filter off, but take a look at my other questions and suggestions...

double-o-soul · Post by **double-o-soul** » Sat Aug 18, 2012 5:52 am

the clutch is what engages the different gears... you're trying to diagnose why the bike won't idle without the choke and otherwise run at all.

Wrinkle249 · Post by **Wrinkle249** » Sat Aug 18, 2012 6:13 am

Sorry I meant the choke. (the pull knob for it won't actually pull out so I have to do it from inside the airbox.)

I will pull our the carb again and reset it on the gasket to see. The only part that was anything but new looking was the brass tube that comes out by the jets and into the air intake. It has a little gunk on it. I will get some carb cleaner tomorrow and rebuild again and stay away from using a wire. I saw it mentioned in a YouTube video and in a post but it did seem strange that you could scratch a jet with it and make a spot where things could stick. All of the gaskets were perfect to the eye on the inside...

Wrinkle249 · Post by **Wrinkle249** » Sat Aug 18, 2012 6:17 am

Oh, The smoke is gray, and the plug is black when I pull it. (I assumed it was because it was burning some old gas)

double-o-soul · Post by **double-o-soul** » Sat Aug 18, 2012 6:34 am

do you mean the 2stroke oil line???

Wrinkle249 · Post by **Wrinkle249** » Sat Aug 18, 2012 7:25 am

No, by plug I meant spark plug. The part by the jets is a small brass tube that goes into the air intake directly under the air filter....

I have not messed with the oil line.

double-o-soul · Post by **double-o-soul** » Sat Aug 18, 2012 7:38 am

thats the venturi, where the fuel mix is ultimately sprayed down toward the reed valve. I'd say it's a pretty big deal that it's gunky, clean it!

double-o-soul · Post by **double-o-soul** » Sat Aug 18, 2012 7:42 am

btw... when you get the bike to idle, and have the air filter off, you'll see it lightly spraying... that's your idle... it's a little trickle to keep the engine firing.
when you give it throttle you'll see the mouth open up and a larger spritz come out of the venturi. try it, it's cool.

BuddyRaton · Post by **BuddyRaton** » Sat Aug 18, 2012 9:44 am

Wrinkle249 wrote:Are there 2 or 3 jets in the carb? I thought there was a main and an idle. Just watched a carb rebuild video and it showed 3? The third being a starter jet?

Three jets. The starter is located under the float bowl cover. Don't just wipe things down. Order a full rebuild kit and take the carb all the way apart. Replace all the gaskets including the one under the air box and replace the float and needle. Opening up and wiping down really isn't going to do too much good.

While your at it write down all the numbers on the jets. We will probably be asking you about them later.

pattio · Post by **pattio** » Sat Aug 18, 2012 12:34 pm

A 2t Stella in CA with 61 miles on it? I didn't think that was possible.

Wrinkle249 · Post by **Wrinkle249** » Sat Aug 18, 2012 3:07 pm

The Venturi must be the problem. Do I just spray it with carb cleaner? Is there a way to actually take it out and clean it?

And as far as the 2t in CA... It was last registered in AZ in 2006. Right now it is not registered at all as I just dragged it back from Tucson on Tuesday. If I can't get it registered (because it does not have 7500 miles, but 2 years might do it according to another post on this site) I may have to have my sister-in-law register it in AZ.

Wrinkle249 · Post by **Wrinkle249** » Sun Aug 19, 2012 1:06 am

I pulled the carb, recleaned everything with carb cleaner/compressed air and focused on the venturi. Reinstalled checking the carb gasket. It now revs with the throttle but dies at WOT and will not stay at 3/4 for more than a few seconds.

All has to happen with choke out, immediately dies with choke in. I sprayed carb cleaner at different parts but now it won't idle to see if there is a difference.

The only thing I did not do was remove the entire airbox.

And I messed with the idle screw and not sure where it was initially.

double-o-soul · Post by **double-o-soul** » Sun Aug 19, 2012 1:53 am

definitely take the entire carb stack apart. if you're already proficient enough to take apart and clean the carb, it's a cinch to do the rest of the stack. there's a groove under the air box where 2t oil travels, make sure it is unobstructed.
might as well lift up the reed block and make sure the reeds are flush against the block. make sure to correctly position the block and gaskets and torque it down back and forth like the carb so you get a nice good air tight seal.
while it's all taken apart, check the oil line and the fuel line... are there any obstructions in them?

note bene: often times, when you take the spark plug out, clean it off, clean the carb, etc... the bike will appear to perform better simply because it's no longer drowning etc., etc.

you said the throttle began to work while idling with the choke out, HOW did it sound? did it ever struggle? like the spark plug was misfiring?

did you go through the wire electrical checks? to make sure it isn't electrical?
does the plug still come out black?

3/4 and WOT to me means main jet stack... are you sure there is nothing in the air corrector mix tube and main jet? while you're at it, check the numbers on all of the jet pieces (including the idle jet) and post them. also, do NOT tighten the jets so hard, it should be just snug, like i said it's soft and can be damaged with a guitar wire.

have you tried running the bike only on the reserve fuel setting?

what is the mix screw set to?

was there any point at which the bike would idle without the choke?

did you check that the oil injection parts on the airbox are snug?

double-o-soul · Post by **double-o-soul** » Sun Aug 19, 2012 1:57 am

http://www.scootercentral.net/forums/vi ... ls#p136135

Wrinkle249 · Post by **Wrinkle249** » Sun Aug 19, 2012 2:57 am

Thank you.

Quick update before I answer your questions. I pulled the carb again before I read your email because I wanted to check the fuel line. In this post on a different forum http://www.scootercentral.net/forums/vi ... 14&t=11177 it says to removed the fuel input to the bowl instead of the fuel line from the carb because it is easier when cleaning. Well the input was the only thing I did not clean 5 times so I removed it and had to clean out some gray earwax like buildup. Put it back on and it ran a little better.

I also messed with the idle screw and got it to idle without the choke. I will pull the whole airbox off tomorrow and follow your directions and thanks for the link!

Answers to your questions:

you said the throttle began to work while idling with the choke out, HOW did it sound? did it ever struggle? like the spark plug was misfiring
Once I upped the idle it sounded ok, not that I have ever heard how it is supposed to sound. Did not sound like it was misfiring.

did you go through the wire electrical checks? to make sure it isn't electrical?
does the plug still come out black?
Tapped,m touched, wiggled... Nada. Plug still black.

3/4 and WOT to me means main jet stack... are you sure there is nothing in the air corrector mix tube and main jet? while you're at it, check the numbers on all of the jet pieces (including the idle jet) and post them. also, do NOT tighten the jets so hard, it should be just snug, like i said it's soft and can be damaged with a guitar wire.
Nothing in main jet, I am not sure what the air corrector mix tube is? Jets: in bowl is 60, idle is 130, and main is 140.

have you tried running the bike only on the reserve fuel setting?
Yes, same result.

what is the mix screw set to?
1-1/2 turnsnout at first but seemed better at 2

was there any point at which the bike would idle without the choke?
It will now but can not throttle up at all without the choke.

did you check that the oil injection parts on the airbox are snug?
Yes it is snug.

Thank again for all of your help!

Wrinkle249 · Post by **Wrinkle249** » Sun Aug 19, 2012 3:01 am

One last thing...

I read somewhere that you are not supposed to take out the air mix screw? I have not taken it out to clean it. Should I? I have also not removed the idle screw to clean it? That last one is probably a no, but the mix screw?

Sorry again if these are silly questions....

double-o-soul · Post by **double-o-soul** » Sun Aug 19, 2012 4:14 am

ah you're missing a few things...
check out this post:
http://www.lmlocgb.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=1707

your idle jet is a ratio of TWO numbers
your main jet is the small nub at the bottom of the MAIN JET STACK. this stack has 3 pieces that come apart, the top with the big hole is the AIR CORRECTOR (yours I think is 140, at first i was going to FREAK out about it hahaha), the middle part is the ATOMISER (the link shows a chart of the atomiser's) the MAIN JET is just a small nub at the bottom. take the three things apart gently with some clamps or something, GENTLY. make sure they are all clean and clear.

so... when describing your jetting it usually looks somethign like this:
40/130 idle, 140/E3/98 main

don't abuse the mix screw too much, because damaging it is a pain, also I don't think I've ever heard of anyone really having problems with a dirty mix screw... in any case an easy way to check this is to make little adjustments (waiting 20 seconds after each 1/4 turns) and notice changes in the idle sound.
which reminds me... 2 and 1/2 turns is where you generally want to be with the correct jetting. read that link on how to tune your carb...

tell me if I'm correct here:
you were able to achieve an idle without the choke, but when you give it throttle it dies...
how does it die?
does it rev at all first?
when the bike is idling, how does the ignition firing sound? is it a fairly regular popping or more like <<pop,pop,.......,pop-pop>>

I dunno... I guess where I'm leaning is that you've finally done so many little things to lean it out to the point where the bike is still getting flooded but not so much and not as quickly anymore? this would explain why giving it throttle then kills it... it's running rich and the throttle is dumping fuel into the engine.
a few more question:
is the bike stock? is it "kitted?" is there a performance exhaust? was ANYTHING performance wise done to the bike?
what kind of plug are you running? do you have a batch of fresh ones to use?

I wish some more experienced 2stroke guys would chime in here...
I'm hoping beyond hope that simply dialing in your jetting properly will fix it...

double-o-soul · Post by **double-o-soul** » Sun Aug 19, 2012 4:21 am

did you actually do the carb rebuild or just take the carb out? there are components to the carb and when you rebuild it you get to check and clean all the stuff you asked about. you would see the idle screw mechanism and the choke mechanism and would be able to clean and examine all of these things... there's a fuel filter and float and etc. that can be examined and cleaned.

Wrinkle249 · Post by **Wrinkle249** » Sun Aug 19, 2012 4:40 am

Thanks again.

I forgot to write down the second number for the idle jet in the last post it is a 40/130, I will get the other numbers off the main jet tomorrow, it was hard enough to read in the light.

I will back the air mix screw out another 1/2 turn.

you were able to achieve an idle without the choke, but when you give it throttle it dies...
how does it die?
Just slows down quickly and stops, like I cut off the gas

does it rev at all first?
Only when the choke is out

when the bike is idling, how does the ignition firing sound? is it a fairly regular popping or more like <<pop,pop,.......,pop-pop>>
Regular since I upped the idle

is the bike stock? is it "kitted?" is there a performance exhaust? was ANYTHING performance wise done to the bike?
Nothing. it has 61 miles on it and it's a 2005. She bought it to putz around the NASCAR infield at the tracks then quickly broke-up with her driver boyfriend. Let it sit since and gave it to me on Sunday.

what kind of plug are you running? do you have a batch of fresh ones to use
I am not sure. I checked the gap and it is correct. I have another that I cleaned and have not swapped it out since yesterday. I will try that before I pull the airbox tomorrow.

I'll remove the whole stack tomorrow and hope to see something obvious.

Wrinkle249 · Post by **Wrinkle249** » Sun Aug 19, 2012 4:48 am

I took it out, removed and cleaned the jets, float, float needle, fuel filter, every hole was sprayed with carb cleaner and compressed air. I did not unscrew the choke or throttle levers, the idle screw, or the air mix screw.

BuddyRaton · Post by **BuddyRaton** » Sun Aug 19, 2012 10:39 am

OK...one last time. Order a rebuild kit. Take the carb fully apart. That means everything. Clean everything. REPLACE all the gaskets, the float and needle. If you don't do this it is going to be impossible to help you. Ethanol in gas eats parts such as the needle tip.

If you don't rebuild there is a good chance of running in circles trying everything under the sun when what is needed is a simple and cheap carb rebuild.

Work with us here! We're more than willing to help but it is tough to diagnose over the interwebs with disjointed information. We will be able to help you a lot more if what you have done is clear such as
"I rebuilt the carb and replaced....my jetting is main xxx..idle xxx, starter xxx. The mixture screw is set at 2.5 turns out, the idle screw is set at 4 turns out. It is now doing this..."

We'll get you running but you need to do your part too!

agrogod · Post by **agrogod** » Sun Aug 19, 2012 11:09 am

I have been watching this thread over the past few days.Auto parts stores have this to aid in cleaning. Sounds like an over night soak may be in order.

And a black spark plug usually means your mix is to rich.

BuddyRaton · Post by **BuddyRaton** » Sun Aug 19, 2012 2:13 pm

agrogod wrote:I have been watching this thread over the past few days.Auto parts stores have this to aid in cleaning. Sounds like an over night soak may be in order.

And a black spark plug usually means your mix is to rich.

Dip is a good start after dis-assembly. Right now the plug color doesn't mean anything. It is a waste of time and money to try to dial in a carb that isn't clean with new parts. It needs to get running first before starting to dial in with proper plug chops

Wrinkle249 · Post by **Wrinkle249** » Sun Aug 19, 2012 7:34 pm

I called the only scooter store close to me (within 50 miles) that was open Sunday's and they did not have a rebuild kit. I can order one online but it won't be here for a couple of days and I have the time now to work on it.

I don't know how to assure you that the carb is spotless and the gaskets are like new but I went ahead and ordered a rebuild kit just on case, and took EVERYTHING off and out again, blew carberator cleaner through every hole that leads to every other hole and back through with compressed air the same way. (I lied, I left the idle screw in)

When I pulled the airbox the gasket below was also clean. I tried to get the next block off but the screw in the back right corner (partly under the gasket?) looked like it was partially stripped and could not get it off) Replaced everything making sure to go back and forth when torquing down the carb to not upset the gaskets.

The jets are: Idle 130/40 and main 140/e3/94

Air mix screw is out 2.5 turns and the idle screw is 3.75 out.

To recap performance it now idles with and without the choke in. I can rev it full throttle for a second with choke out. Dies at 1/4 throttle with choke it. I was able to ride it with the choke out getting to 3rd gear, but with throttle 3/4 for more than a couple seconds it starts to die still.

There were 2 different spark plugs.... Both seemed to be gapped correctly, I put the cleanest one in this morning.

I am going to continue to mess with it but if I have the choke wide open is that gas mixing with oil? Am I ruining it if it is not mixing with the oil?

Would the gear box oil have anything to do with it? (probably a stupid question)

And I assume by now I burned off all of the 7 year old gas that was left after I siphoned out the majority of it, but could that be an issue?

BuddyRaton · Post by **BuddyRaton** » Mon Aug 20, 2012 2:54 am

Why not pull the idle screw? Were you able to get the slide out without removing it? I know you might think the gaskets are "like new" does that include the rubber slide gasket? Has the needle been replaced? If there was a bunch of junk at the banjo there is stuff everywhere. What do you mean by "took everything off and out"? Did you take it all the way apart?

And yeah...if you don't have a local shop you have to order parts...that's just the way it goes. If you had a bunch of garf at the banjo, didn't remove the idle screw, didn't replace the parts I can guarantee that the carb still needs work and is probably still your main problem area.

If you think it's squeaky clean and working properly...that's fine with me...it's just not the method I use.

I don't understand "There were 2 different spark plugs.... Both seemed to be gapped correctly, I put the cleanest one in this morning." A plug is either properly gaped or not, . Don't spare the $2.50...get a new plug instead of sticking in the "cleanest one".

I'm not trying to be a jerk but cutting corners just doesn't yield good results. It's not like the errors or items ignored add up...they multiply. Lets say your carb is messed up 5%, your timing is off 2%, your plug is 3% garfed up...your not going to be off by 10%...you'll be off by more like 30%

Let us know how you make out

michelle_7728 · Post by **michelle_7728** » Mon Aug 20, 2012 4:01 am

Wrinkle249 wrote:...I assume by now I burned off all of the 7 year old gas that was left after I siphoned out the majority of it, but could that be an issue?

May not be the issue, but it can't hurt to put some Seafoam in there along with the new gas.

Wrinkle249 · Post by **Wrinkle249** » Mon Aug 20, 2012 7:25 am

I am not really trying to cut corners just waiting for the a rebuild kit to come in the mail. I just posted this on Friday and had time to work on it this weekend and unfortunately it is hard to get a rebuild kit on a Sunday.

By taking it apart and everything out of it I will try and demonstrate with a picture. (not the float, bowl etc. was already taken apart and put back together)

double-o-soul · Post by **double-o-soul** » Mon Aug 20, 2012 9:43 am

I'm really interested in this problem :-/
I just want to point out some things maybe that are being overlooked by the more seasoned people here now:

91 miles and sat for years... that means it was not "run in" correctly. I have no personal experience with this, nor do I know what that really means.

throughout this process, pulled choke meant better performance... Doesn't this almost always mean air leak?

plug is black, and giving it throttle kills the bike... doesn't that sound like fuel is being dumped in and the bike is drowning in the richness?

the bike will now dependably idle, but the throttle kills it... main jet stack issue? too rich?

for the OP:
have you done an oil change once you were able to idle and get the bike warmed up?
you checked the 2t oil line right?
did you notice the fuel line underneath the airbox above the reed block? you should clean that whole pathway of oil thats sealed by the gasket.

agrogod · Post by **agrogod** » Mon Aug 20, 2012 10:08 am

Hey double-o-soul you forgot to mention the choke cable not operating properly. Seems that all seem to be ignoring that.

BuddyRaton · Post by **BuddyRaton** » Mon Aug 20, 2012 12:13 pm

agrogod wrote:Hey double-o-soul you forgot to mention the choke cable not operating properly. Seems that all seem to be ignoring that.

which is cleaned when taken apart unless it is a choke cable problem.

BuddyRaton · Post by **BuddyRaton** » Mon Aug 20, 2012 12:32 pm

double-o-soul wrote:I'm really interested in this problem :-/
I just want to point out some things maybe that are being overlooked by the more seasoned people here now:

91 miles and sat for years... that means it was not "run in" correctly. I have no personal experience with this, nor do I know what that really means.

It's not even close to being broken in

double-o-soul wrote:throughout this process, pulled choke meant better performance... Doesn't this almost always mean air leak?

Not really. It can also mean that the carb isn't delivering enough fuel so to get a mixture that will ignite it needs to be choked. Look at it this way...at start up you choke it to richen the mixture by reducing the air (choke).
If the carb is garfed it will not be delivering the proper volume of fuel so choking it will also reduce the air allowing it to start and idle. The OP has gotten to this point. Now close the choke, roll on the throttle, more air is sucked in but the fuel supply is still restricted so it goes too lean to even ignite and stalls.

On the other hand the gaskets haven't been replaced so that is a potential pathway for air leaks.

double-o-soul wrote:plug is black, and giving it throttle kills the bike... doesn't that sound like fuel is being dumped in and the bike is drowning in the richness?

Plug color isn't telling much right now as it can't get past idle. Plus it sounds like the OP is sticking in used plugs that may not be gapped right.

double-o-soul wrote:the bike will now dependably idle, but the throttle kills it... main jet stack issue? too rich?

The main stack doesn't kick in until about 3/4 throttle so its not even getting involved yet. If it is a stock Stella the stock jetting should be fine. I think it is the opposite...too lean due to fuel delivery system problems.

We know that the needle and float has not been replaced, the idle screw had not been removed, but we don't know how far apart that thing has been taken, slide removed, choke pulled out and cleaned, starter jet cleaned etc etc. Wwe don't even know if it was properly torqued back down

for the OP:
have you done an oil change once you were able to idle and get the bike warmed up?
you checked the 2t oil line right?
did you notice the fuel line underneath the airbox above the reed block? you should clean that whole pathway of oil thats sealed by the gasket.[/quote]

Wrinkle249 · Post by **Wrinkle249** » Mon Aug 20, 2012 4:59 pm

for the OP:
have you done an oil change once you were able to idle and get the bike warmed up?
No. should I?

you checked the 2t oil line right?
When I removed the airbox I pulled off the oil line and it was flowing fine.

did you notice the fuel line underneath the airbox above the reed block? you should clean that whole pathway of oil thats sealed by the gasket.
Is it the grove in the picture below? If so it was clean.

Rebuild kit should be here tomorrow afternoon.

Again I know you are getting frustrated with this but I do appreciate the help. Wild it help if I posted a video of what happens?

Wrinkle249 · Post by **Wrinkle249** » Mon Aug 20, 2012 5:25 pm

Here is a link to a quick video from this morning. It actually works better with the choke out first thing in the morning and once it warms up does not die as fast with the choke in but still always dies.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DqQpROrB ... ata_player

Mousenut · Post by **Mousenut** » Mon Aug 20, 2012 6:14 pm

I know nothing about this but it is very interesting to read.

I'm rooting for you to get up and running soon!

double-o-soul · Post by **double-o-soul** » Tue Aug 21, 2012 6:50 am

Are you familiar with how carb's and venturi's work?
I want you to (with the air filter off) get the bike to idle, and look into the venturi pathway. it should be obstructed with a small slit. when you twist the throttle, the obstruction should pull back and the venturi should spit out some mix...

double-o-soul · Post by **double-o-soul** » Tue Aug 21, 2012 6:52 am

nota bene: after futzing with trying to start a bike, once you get it to idle without choke, you should let it run for as long as it takes until the smoke clears. the smoke is from crap in the cylinder being burned off.

double-o-soul · Post by **double-o-soul** » Tue Aug 21, 2012 7:01 am

you also forgot to mention what kind of plug you are running. we need the entire set of letters and numbers on that plug.
did you make sure it wasnt electrical? spark plug seated properly? spark plug cap secured onto the plug? plug cap wire secure? wire secured to the ignition coil? jiggle every part of this apparatus while idling to check for disturbance to the idle sound.
It could be timing... like it's barely firing the idle on time, but once you dump fuel it drowns... i'm starting to run out of ideas man.

BuddyRaton · Post by **BuddyRaton** » Tue Aug 21, 2012 11:40 am

double-o-soul wrote:you also forgot to mention what kind of plug you are running. we need the entire set of letters and numbers on that plug.
did you make sure it wasnt electrical? spark plug seated properly? spark plug cap secured onto the plug? plug cap wire secure? wire secured to the ignition coil? jiggle every part of this apparatus while idling to check for disturbance to the idle sound.
It could be timing... like it's barely firing the idle on time, but once you dump fuel it drowns... i'm starting to run out of ideas man.

Nah...once the carb is rebuilt there are plenty of other potential options. Fuel tap, fuel line etc. .

OP...pop the gas cap and take a look in the tank to see if there is any trash in there. Use a flashlight...not a match!

Good call on plug numbers. I would suggest going with the recommended stock plug. I can't remember what it is but easy to look up.

Yep...after the fuel system is checked out I would start checking electrical.

OP...if you coud post some photos of the main electrical components that may help. Stellas are notorious for rubber electrical boots rotting out quickly.

Hang in there..we'll get you running!

Modern Buddy

2005 Stella won't start

2005 Stella won't start

2 or 3 jets?

Re: 2 or 3 jets?

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