Stella first service: Self Service

slotrod65 · Post by **slotrod65** » Mon Apr 28, 2014 2:21 am

Well, my closest dealer is 2 hours away, so I had always planned on doing my own work. I have 536 miles on the Stella, and it's time for service. First off is the oil change. I started the bike up and idled her for 15 minutes while I assembled all the necessary tools, the oil, the filter and the jack stand. The jack stand, incidentally, is the best tool I have purchased for the Stella, as it hold up the bike allowing you to remove the rear wheel. I bought it on Ebay UK last fall.

I followed this most useful Vimeo video on the subject:

http://vimeo.com/20618680

Henway, I pulled the drain plug, and unscrewed the screen filter. Yes, there was gunk and a few metal filings in the screen which a few shots of carb cleaner took care of.

Next I removed the oil filter cover and the filter. The cover was stuck, and a few love taps from a large handled screwdriver helped loosen it a bit. The filter had a number of goobers on it, but no metal bits which made me happy:

Once it was all drained, I cleaned everything up, inserted a new filter and closed her up:

Of course, I dropped a lock washer in the oil, but my magnetic finder found it!

Again, the oil was dirty, but no metal bits or sparkles, which is a good thing.

I then added oil using a neato bent tipped squirt bottle thingy I picked up at a beauty supply store. Then I cranked her over a few times and topped off the oil. After a final check on bolt tightness and last look for leaks, I started the Stella up and ran her for a minute or two, rechecked the oil level, and added another 30ml or so.

Finally I put the rear wheel back on, started her up and ran her for 5 minutes or so then gave a final check. Oil level was A-OK, so I was done for the day. Next comes the carb and jet service...

RoaringTodd · Post by **RoaringTodd** » Mon Apr 28, 2014 10:40 am

Keep us posted

I'm running a 2t so this wouldn't apply but would like to see the gear oil change and carb/jetting report from you.

RT

Cam · Post by **Cam** » Mon Apr 28, 2014 11:11 pm

Nice post....thanks for the great pictures! Do you have a make/model on that stand?

slotrod65 · Post by **slotrod65** » Tue Apr 29, 2014 2:11 am

Village Scooters. I bought it via Ebay UK:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vespa-Engine- ... 2c80cf2693

I would suggest messaging the seller and asking if he has any more.

slotrod65 · Post by **slotrod65** » Fri May 02, 2014 4:22 pm

Next, following the video, I serviced the carb. Yes, you need a rag like in the video. In fact, I used up three, all covered in gasoline.

The fuel bowl had two little dots of blue gunk, and nothing else, so I was pleased.

The jets were in and out, just like the video.

I also took the time to correctly adjust the choke, which was not opening fully. In order to get the casing to remain where I wanted it, I duct taped it to the cable loop. It works much better know, does not kink, and the scooter starts easier:

slotrod65 · Post by **slotrod65** » Fri May 02, 2014 4:28 pm

Since the scooter is already warm, and I will be busy this weekend, the valve adjustment will have to wait until next week. Instead, I swapped out the plug for a AOR14LGS Brisk High Performance Special Silver Electrode Spark Plug. The guys on the LML UK forum really like these plugs, so I gave one a try. Note: To use on the STELLA, you have to remove the plug attachment cap, leaving the threaded end. This involved carefully drilling the cap and unscrewing it without breaking the plug. And yes, I broke one on the first try, so go carefully.

On a happier note, the stock plug was a nice chocolate brown, as it should be:

Here is the stock plug with the brisk plug side by side. There is no gapping these:

The scooter started right up, so I will take a nice ride at lunchtime.

jimmbomb · Post by **jimmbomb** » Fri May 02, 2014 5:07 pm

thanks slotrod, for all these insights with media.
Can did you happen to take a picture of the plug BEFORE you drilled it out.. and IF you have to do it again, document the process too??
Thanks alot for this info! Keep it up!

slotrod65 · Post by **slotrod65** » Fri May 02, 2014 5:11 pm

Before I modified the spark plug, it basically looked like the below pic without the hole. The cap was on:

So I drilled three small holes into the three indentations on the cap. The idea was to loosen it at these three points where it was crimped on.

The firs plug, I drilled too far and when I tried to unscrew the cap, I found I had drilled into the threaded end, and broken it off. The second plug I drilled more carefully and was able to remove the plug with the rest of the plug intact.

jimmbomb · Post by **jimmbomb** » Fri May 02, 2014 11:54 pm

so that 'cap' is crimped on?? and a simple pair of pliers couldn't unscrew it off??
I reckon another alternative would be to change the spark plug L cap to the other type that accepts the bulbous plug end??
thanks for the lesson!!!

I can see how that plug would produce a spark that went out in 4 directions and for much more distance!
More fire

slotrod65 · Post by **slotrod65** » Sat May 03, 2014 12:22 am

UK members have advised that if you try to simply unscrew the cap, the porcelain breaks, or the threaded end comes out. So the drilling releases the crimping. And yes, others have changed the cap to match the plug.

Wild Handyman · Post by **Wild Handyman** » Sat May 03, 2014 6:49 am

slotrod65, my closest dealer is also a two hour ride away, so thank you for posting the pictures and the link to the maintenance video.

I really like the rear wheel jack/support. For anyone with basic welding skills it wouldn't take long to duplicate. I am going to add that to my To Do list.

slotrod65 · Post by **slotrod65** » Mon May 05, 2014 10:34 pm

I did the valves this morning. As per the video, the engine should be cold, so I did not start the scoot until this was completed. First I opened up the covers, then I turned the motor by hand until I lined up the marks.

Using the valve adjustment tool made this pretty easy. I used a feeler gauge to check before, during and after. The only problem was that when tightening the lock nut, it turns the adjustment nut ever so little, so I had to do this a number of times until I learned how far to back off the adjuster before tightening. The exhaust valve was perfect and required no adjustment,

I was quite pleased that the scooter started right up. When I went out for a ride, the scoot felt peppier, and did not lug on streets is used to lug. It is probably a combination of the adjusted choke, the plug and the valve adjustment.

Next will be checking the cables.

slotrod65 · Post by **slotrod65** » Mon May 05, 2014 10:37 pm

Wild Handyman wrote:slotrod65, my closest dealer is also a two hour ride away, so thank you for posting the pictures and the link to the maintenance video.

I really like the rear wheel jack/support. For anyone with basic welding skills it wouldn't take long to duplicate. I am going to add that to my To Do list.

Well, I called my "dealer who is two hours away" for some advice and it turns out he closed over the winter. So I am looking at 2.5-3 hours ot the next dealer, ones that I do not know, nor do they know me. Fortunately, I used to restore Corvairs, so I know my way around a wrench. It is just that everything is so unfamiliar with scooters. So far, everything has been pretty easy to do.

Neurotic-Hapi-Snak · Post by **Neurotic-Hapi-Snak** » Wed Jun 18, 2014 6:18 pm

slotrod65 wrote:Next, following the video, I serviced the carb. Yes, you need a rag like in the video. In fact, I used up three, all covered in gasoline.

There's actually a drain on the carb bowl, so you can drain it before cracking it open.

Neurotic-Hapi-Snak · Post by **Neurotic-Hapi-Snak** » Thu Jun 19, 2014 3:56 am

So I cleaned the air filter and adjusted the valves. The intake valve, after a few tries, I got to where the .05mm blade would slide in and out with little resistance, but the .06mm just barely couldn't fit. It's supposed to be .06mm +/-.01mm, and I figured it's probably closer to .06 than .05. the exhaust I got to exactly .08mm, .07 slides in with no resistance, .09 doesn't fit, and .08 slides in with some resistance.

When I started it up it refused to idle. I had to leave so I tinkered with the idle and idle mix screw quick till it idled fine. But on my way to school, when I pulled the clutch and let of the throttle to slow down for a turn, it died. Pulled to the side, started back up and idled fine, so I took off. Happened a couple more times till I got to school. Fiddled with the idle mix a bit on a break, enriched the mix. Went for a little ride and it refused to idle, too rich. Fiddled with the idle mix some more, turned up the idle, adjusted the mix to the fastest RPM, turned the idle speed back down to where it was originally. Felt this was too fast, so I turned the idle down another 1/4 turn and went inside. On my way home, it died constantly when letting off the throttle when coasting. Sometimes it would die for a second, then start back up on it's own. Finally got home and started messing with the idle again. Did the whole process of turning idle speed up, adjusting mix, turn idle down, his time I left it a little fast. Went on a ride and purposely tried to kill it by going WOT and releasing the throttle and it didn't die once.

Other than the idle thing, it does seem to have a little more omph after cleaning the air filter and adjusting the valves. The intake wasn't far off, .07mm IRCC, the exhaust I could fit a .10mm with no resistance.

jimmbomb · Post by **jimmbomb** » Fri Jun 20, 2014 2:29 am

RoaringTodd wrote:Keep us posted

I'm running a 2t so this wouldn't apply but would like to see the gear oil change and carb/jetting report from you.

RT

The 4t has no gear oil like the 2t's do.
They share motor oil with the transmission.

srbbnd · Post by **srbbnd** » Wed Jun 10, 2015 12:25 am

Thanks for posting the oil change I am planning on doing it on my own from now, I moved and live too far from the dealer. I wasn't able to find anything on the 4t using Bing and Google then started searching here.

Thanks!