Buddy 125 Maintenance

Skippy · Post by **Skippy** » Mon May 16, 2016 7:31 pm

Hi, I haven't posted for a while and have a few basic maintenance questions. My Buddy is 3.5 years old but I haven't ridden it too much (only 750 miles). I took it in for its initial break-in service 3 years ago at 200 miles but haven't done anything to it since. I'm going to be commuting on it on a regular basis now and want to know what I should do to it. I'm guessing an oil change. What I want to know is:

Is my open bottle of synthetic oil from my previous oil change in 2013 good to use or should I buy new?

Should I get a new oil filter too even though it's only been 500 miles?

Do I need to change gear oil and if so, can I again use my practically full but open bottle from 2013?

Any other maintenance recommended?

Thanks!

DeeDee · Post by **DeeDee** » Mon May 16, 2016 9:39 pm

They should have done engine oil and gear oil at the 200 miles service. If it were mine, I would put 1.5 ounces of sea foam in a full tank of gas and ride it. I'd probably do a full service with valve clearance check at 1,000 miles. Be sure to check your tire pressure. They can be 10 lbs low and still look okay. I do engine oil every 2k, gear oil every 4k and new oil filter every other change. At 1,000 I'd do the spark plug as well. Your oil from 2013 should be fine to use. I like Rotella T6 from walmart for the engine oil.

paracer · Post by **paracer** » Mon May 16, 2016 10:15 pm

Geez. I've racked up just over 1000 miles and I just got my scoot at the end of March.

Skippy · Post by **Skippy** » Mon May 16, 2016 11:46 pm

Thanks. Yes, engine oil, filter and gear oil changed at 200 miles in 2013. I've ridden since, just not a lot, so tire pressure is ok.

With cars, the advice is always to change oil every year as it degrades regardless of miles driven. That is why I thought I should change it now at 3 years. But it's synthetic oil, so maybe not so much degradation. Oil on dipstick is still amber colored.

Just to to on safe side, I will change oil, but sounds like I can use same filter since it's only got 500 miles on it, unless those degrade with time too. Scooter's been covered in a CA garage so pretty clean.

Thanks again.

paracer · Post by **paracer** » Tue May 17, 2016 1:38 am

I would change the oil filter. The filter is basically a folded up piece of paper in a metal can. It's been sitting in oil since forever.

I would keep an eye on the tires for dry rot. Also, the valve stems.

DeeDee · Post by **DeeDee** » Tue May 17, 2016 2:07 am

paracer wrote:
I would keep an eye on the tires for dry rot. Also, the valve stems.

Dry rot and valve stems on a 3 year old scooter with 750 miles? Maybe in the Serengeti.

Skippy · Post by **Skippy** » Tue May 17, 2016 3:51 am

Thanks all. Oil and filter change and visual inspection of tires etc. and I think I'll be good to go.

mike932 · Post by **mike932** » Tue May 17, 2016 4:08 am

Change the gear oil. It is so easy to do with a syringe..... http://www.ebay.com/itm/100ml-Plastic-S ... SwD2pXFeHo

RoaringTodd · Post by **RoaringTodd** » Tue May 17, 2016 11:12 am

Thanks for that ^ ! Just ordered 2.

Skippy · Post by **Skippy** » Tue May 17, 2016 8:54 pm

Ok, changing oil and just drove 30 miles to get an oil filter. When I got home, I noticed it had a different top than the one I removed with a socket/ratchet. This one has 2 semi-circles with a slit in the middle. What do I need to install it? Can I just hand tighten really well?

DeeDee · Post by **DeeDee** » Tue May 17, 2016 9:16 pm

You need to get it tightened to at least 12 ft lbs. I've seen buddy engines fry because the filter was hand tightened and lost most of the oil. Get it as tight as you can by hand, then get an oil filter wrench or channel locks and go another 1/2 turn: Or take the filter back and buy the HF197.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OIL-FILTER-/231 ... YI&vxp=mtr

george54 · Post by **george54** » Tue May 17, 2016 9:38 pm

For those slotted filters you need the "Snowflake" filter tool ($10) from oopsclunkthud.com (this is a real site. Not a joke)

Skippy · Post by **Skippy** » Tue May 17, 2016 9:52 pm

All good advice. What I did was hand tighten, then a little more with a rubber gripper, then improvising, used a metal carpenter' s square to further tighten as far as it would go. Until I order proper tool, it will have to do. Even snowflake wrench won't have a torque setting so it's kind of a guessing game.

Skippy · Post by **Skippy** » Tue May 17, 2016 9:55 pm

Dee Dee you're awesome.

george54 · Post by **george54** » Tue May 17, 2016 11:21 pm

I bet in the real world most people are like me on this.....
I've owned 20 motorcycles and even more cars and have never stressed over ft lbs . Spin the filter on hand tight and then approx. 1/4 to 1/3 of a turn more. Never had a leak, never had one refuse to come off, and I've almost never changed out a crush washer.
You don't have to over-think this.

The only time I had an oil leak was 10 minutes after an oil change place changed my oil back around 1980.

DeeDee · Post by **DeeDee** » Wed May 18, 2016 1:39 am

I would say you're much better to be too tight than not tight enough. I've seen not tight enough destroy a 2006 Buddy 125 engine.

Dooglas · Post by **Dooglas** » Wed May 18, 2016 5:52 pm

I have never used a torque wrench on an oil filter. I do as others here describe. Hand tight and them another 1/2 turn or so. I prefer the hex head filters but you can use a heavy screwdriver or other metal tool laid along the slot to tighten the HF183.

k1dude · Post by **k1dude** » Wed May 18, 2016 6:11 pm

IMHO, the official torque spec for the filter is way too high.

My years of weekend wrenching has provided me with an internal torque wrench. I rely on it. I know how much to tighten it.

I probably take it further than I normally would, simply because the official spec is so high. I crank it down all the way by hand, and then probably give it 1/2 to 1 full turn more.

As mentioned, it's better to err on the tight side and the loose side.

If it makes you nervous, take a paint pen and mark an arrow pointing to the ground. Occasionally check to see if the arrow moved. Especially in the first 100 or 200 miles. If it's still pointing at the ground, you're good!

mike932 · Post by **mike932** » Wed May 18, 2016 7:04 pm

And put some oil on the filter's rubber gasket before installing!

Skippy · Post by **Skippy** » Wed May 18, 2016 9:28 pm

Thanks for all the advice. I too have changed many car oil filters and never used a torque wrench with no problems. I like the idea of marking and checking. Changed gear oil too and added some Sea Foam so am ready to go. I also ordered a couple extra filters with hex ends for future on internet. So much cheaper! I paid $20 for one at my dealer.

MYSCTR · Post by **MYSCTR** » Thu May 19, 2016 12:14 am

DeeDee wrote:I would say you're much better to be too tight than not tight enough. I've seen not tight enough destroy a 2006 Buddy 125 engine.

Boy an I glad we don't ride a 2006 125... Oops, we do own one. Better check that filter fast! he he

george54 · Post by **george54** » Thu May 19, 2016 1:39 am

Just saying that its better to over tighten than under tighten is too broad of a comment, IMO. What y'all mean to say, I hope, is _slightly_ over tighten.

I recently owned a Honda CB1100. Over on that forum are photos of the engine cases where the filter mounts. Apparently, the Honda factory workers seriously over tightened the oil filters. This gave some new owners fits when they tried to remove the oil filter for a change, and some had to destroy the filter to remove it. Others have posted photos where the filters were so tight that the filter gasket was completely crushed flat, and the edge of the filter was jammed against the engine scraping the powder coating off, and scrapes and gouges.

mike932 · Post by **mike932** » Thu May 19, 2016 3:20 am

george54 wrote: Others have posted photos where the filters were so tight that the filter gasket was completely crushed flat, and the edge of the filter was jammed against the engine scraping the powder coating off, and scrapes and gouges.

If you want something done right, you gotta do it yourself. That's why I change my own scooter tires.

sc00ter · Post by **sc00ter** » Thu May 19, 2016 1:45 pm

Thats were I draw the line mike! I freakin' HATE doing tires! We got a great shop that removes and installs tires for $20 each, you just have to make sure they know were to line up the balance marks and rotation direction. Yeah, I have all the tools, and every once in a while we get trapped doing a tire ourselves and get a polite reminder of how terrible it is. Cycle Gear (our local one at least) no longer mounts scooter tires. They said their tire machine cant go that small. I looked, it goes down to 8 inches. Its either pride or the fact that my friends Dayton 12" with a low profile tire kicked their butts! You either have patience of gold or steel covered hands mike!

mike932 · Post by **mike932** » Thu May 19, 2016 1:59 pm

it took me lots of practice, but i am finally very good at changing scooter tires thanks to these videos....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lM44nB0IoKA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2kiU7_m5JbA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xazFOr2I0ZM

DeeDee · Post by **DeeDee** » Thu May 19, 2016 9:05 pm

I can never get the bead to seat without torching it with starter fluid. Those are good videos!

bgwss · Post by **bgwss** » Fri May 20, 2016 1:43 pm

I must say I changed my scooter tires for a while. But after getting worn out, I came to the conclusion it was worth for me to take the tire off and get it mounted at the motorcycle shop.

k1dude · Post by **k1dude** » Fri May 20, 2016 3:28 pm

bgwss wrote:I must say I changed my scooter tires for a while. But after getting worn out, I came to the conclusion it was worth for me to take the tire off and get it mounted at the motorcycle shop.

That's what I do. I have a shop that mounts scooter tires for $20. Not dealing with the aggravation makes it worth it to me.

Modern Buddy